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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/29/2011 in all areas

  1. I always had good results with that driver running around 1/2 cubic foot tuned at 30Hz... No stuffing, you could line the walls with 1" or thinner fiberglass to cut mechanical noise if you felt inclined...
  2. You can try these. Cheap and sound good. Aura 6K RPM 6-1/2" Components
  3. The main physical difference is that mine has a much smaller cell structure. This give it better resistance to compression set (flattening out). No offense meant to Rick, but peel & stick CCF is firmly in the fish/bicycle zone. You don't need to glue CCF to the floor since the MLV, carpet, seats, trim and gravity will hold everything in place. There's a huge advantage to being able to remove this stuff and put it back in when you need to get under it to do that thing you never thought you'd need to do. I use Velcro Strips on vertical surfaces like this: This lets you fit the MLV first and then come back and add the CCF. This is a huge advantage with doors where making small adjustments in registration is essential. It also makes it possible to remove everything, should the need arise.
  4. My first car, a 1986 Nissan Cherry With a Cerwin Vega Stroker 15 w/6inch aeroport, powered by a Kicker Impulse 1252i, and a Rockford Fosgate Punch 4080, 4x20W to power components: This was in the mid/late 90s Next car had a Soundstream Davinci amp, PG Cyclone subwoofer slotloaded in a box under the amp, and Boston Acoustics Pro 6,43 3-way components with the midbasses exchanged for Phoenix Gold qx 8" drivers: And the first system I had in the car over here, same front stage but with Soundstream Rubicon 404 and 1002 amps, and dual Polk DB10 subs: All of this is from the 90s
  5. So modest. I bet you're chompin at the chance to go and tear everyone's heads off with that new wall of yours. Truth? I'm a little nervous. This is my first wall. First huge system, and a new car with no real testing time.

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