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We (SSA) are in the grey area as a lot of shops don't want to carry SSA, because they 2x - 3x the margin we can offer. Most shops don't care about quality, and don't feel they should pay for it unless a name like Zapco or JL is on the front. So we have been growing, dealer wise, more organically with smaller shops and some competitors who are not about huge margins and pushing product on people, but more so enthusiasts that care about audio and understand about doing it right the first time. This way is much slower in terms of growing as a brand, but with a great product and honest people who love it, it is much better overall in my opinion.

No pics of the enclosure just yet. But here are some boobies Yikes. I didn't know you guys rolled like that Hopefully by the end of Tuesday.

Some of you may remember the build I did for my sister in her 2002 Durango and the resulting review I wrote for her 12" DCON afterward, may not. It currently consists of a Kenwood KDC-X493 HU, Phoenix Gold RSD 6.5 components in the front, JBL GTO 6.5" coax's in the rear doors, the DCON all powered by a Hifonics ZXi8010 five channel amp. Now, I mentioned in the review that it was easy to reach the limitations of the amp and hear it through either the highs or the sub. We did a little playing around recently and connected that DCON to my Sundown in the van and there was a night and day difference. I would attribute most of that to the MAJOR headroom the SAZ2K has at 2 ohms over the rating for the sub, but even at lower volume levels it showed the amp seemed as though it was pretty limited on clean power. So that sparked a month long search for a suitable replacement five channel amp that would give better performance without breaking the bank. I ran across an amp that I thought would be a very suitable replacement, was at a fantastic price BNIB on EBay compared to the same amp at other online retailers, and was a brand that I've been wanting to try out for awhile so she ordered it. I thought I'd share the pictures of the new arrival, a Cadence F100-5. I am really surprised by how heavy it is. Shipping weight was 22.8lbs and it feels it too. Should be a great amp for her if Cadence's reputation follows this line like it does some of the others. This thing is rated 100wrms x 4 @ 4 plus 300wrms x 1 @ 4 or 500wrms x 1 @ 2 for the sub. Not a bad pick up for $170 IMHO and that even includes a 4AWG wiring kit that hasn't shipped yet.

My current build can be found here. Decided to try out a ZCON. I probably would not have bought one but I bought this used at a good price. USPS is holding the driver at their facility so hopefully tomorrow I can pick it up. Really going a different route with the enclosure as well. I picked up a few 8" aero ports from Adrian_D Enclosure specs : 4.11^ft tuned at 35hz The port opening is literally right beside the sub. I am very curious how this will work out. I suspect some funky things will happen, we will see. Port will be semi external and sub will be mounted inverted. I will eventually be powering it with my DC Audio 2.0K that I've had in my closet for four months. Just have to wire/mount it up. Enclosure is almost done. I have some finishing touches to do yet.

Been talking to Kevin from DIY Cable about the Anarchy mids and found out that he has a 4 ohm version designed. He has not been able to get enough orders to make a production run, but he is trying to give it a go. He needs 150 drivers preordered, a tall task I know but hopefully between all the car and other sites we can get it done. Here is the link: http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=538 Now order some!!

An enclosure that large, a wall, is bigger than a street box. It is heavier, holds more weight, has more internal volume and is intended to get loud. All of these keys require a more sturdy support on anchoring it down. My wall i'm building is anchored to the floor, both side wall frames of the car and will be anchored in the back to the floor and side walls as well. It's to also help with flexing. The less flex the wall does, the louder it will be.

Your enclosure should always be secured.

I had a looooonnnnggggg day today. Went into work at 4am to get shit done then dentist. Pretty cold outside, moved the project into the basement. Don't mind the shitty basement carpet I have the port mounted rock solid. It is screwed, glued and caulked I also applied silicone to the inside of the elbow/flange in certain areas The elbow is flush with the front baffle. I like to discard the supplied gasket and use foam tape. I also recessed the mounting hole because subwoofer basket it is right against the sides/bottom of the enclosure. One ZCON 15 mounted! This is how it will look once it is finished. I still have a bunch of small details to complete until the enclosure is "done". Yep the flared flanged aero is huge, about 14.5"

I don't get any reflections with this setup. Thanks to driver selection and mounting location I honestly only eq down a smidge at 2k hz. I think this is more due 2k being the freq we are most sensitive to than anything. As Sean said don't plan on the eq being part of the install as it is there to dial in after install. Boost should only be used for a big dip in the FR.

Before you go nuts reading, do realize that a car is a fucking terrible place to put a stereo so no matter what all classical measurement techniques and approaches fail miserably. That being said, the trade-off's that are chosen should be personal. ie, you can get a perfect stage rather easily in many installs but at the cost of frequency response. What is more important? Not saying that some semblance of both isn't possible, but I bet you aren't willing to go far enough into the install to get there. Moral of the response? Determine your physical constraints first as they are the ones that really make the determination.

I've decided to start murdering my truck out except with chrome here and there. So here is my start.

Have you read the last page? Notice that nobody has had contact with this guy, and you still want to do business with him? Maybe this has been cleared, but I would recommend going and finding Adrian.D and getting flares from him.

Cf reps are salesmen, you know this right?

So a sub only given 50% of its nominal wattage wont sound muddy or distorted? Heres another question: As far as output is concerned, who would win between a 15" BL or BTL and a 15" SSA XCON or ZCON? As far as output goes: Btl>BL ZCON>XCON If you pick any of those you won't be disappointed. A sub will be fine on half power, whoever told you otherwise was incorrect.

I hope you are not stating that the Obsidian woofers are designed by the same person who designed the Skar woofers because that is completely wrong. If you are listening to your woofers in an anechoic chamber then definitely look at the WinISD graphs. If you are not, however, add in a +12dB/octave gain at ~45 Hz and you will have an estimated in-car response.

where is that sale going down at? http://obsidiancaraudio.com/index.php?id=9

Tweets will be cut at 3k too. My amps xover is 30Hz - 500Hz...no multiplier switch . I think i'm just gonna bite the bullet and buy a 3 way xover than can bandpass the midrange, strongly considering this onehttp://www.woofersetc.com/p-3434-16-xo3-memphis-3-way-electronic-crossover.aspx

The ONLY way to make a woofer fail thermally, is to overpower it.

I did not go to the snow sculpture in Breck this year, but am stealing these pics from a friends FB. The cool thing to note in the pic ^ is the cube of snow in the background. This is what they start with.

The Grey text is the specs for the dual 1 ohm coil subs, the white text are the specs for the dual 2 ohm. However, the power handling is 1500 for both. When they updated the cooling on the subs and updated the website they just missed the text there. They're not worried about changing it as they'll have a whole brand spanking new website very soon. These guys are right, you can't under power a sub and it's not going to hurt anything to run them on your amp. The enclosure you put it into will have WAY more to do with it's performance than the amp that's running it and you can always upgrade your amp at a later date. Which, BTW what did you have planned on the enclosure?

nah man pick whichever sub will fit your budget and your goals most. There is no such thing as underpowering a subwoofer. you can get a btl and feed it 1000 watts and be just fine. then when you get hungry you can upgrade amps and really make that sub shine. just depends on if your more into sq or spl. you like to get stupid loud or do you like it to sound amazing while still getting decently loud? its all in the budget and preference

Curt, Sorry I didn't respond to this earlier. I think I may have misinterpreted your intent. I try to avoid commenting on competitor's products so can't help you much there. There's more to vibration damper than just foil thickness, so judging on that basis alone doesn't really make sense. I've never used or handled STP products. To be honest, stock photos of models, no technical information at all and the claim that they are derived from Soviet military technology haven't piqued my interest. 3M Thinsulate Acoustic is a remarkable absorber. It's actually used in some luxury cars. How you treat a door with airbags is going to depend on the exact details of the door. The safest thing is to do nothing. The obvious point is not to interfere with their function.

Winter X-Games makes for a nutty weekend. What it looks like from the road. The flakes are bigger in Aspen.

Realize this graph does not include cabin gain. In-car response will be completely different and that peak could very well move down one octave.

LED is worth it for a few reasons: LongevityPower savingsThinner chassisMuch better dynamic contrast control* (not all LED TVs take advantage of the technology in this regard like they should)Brighter backlighting (not always a good thing, but usually is)

It's the dream homeboy! But please, if you do, learn as much as possible before you even consider it fully. My town has way too many shops that don't know a thing about car audio, besides what the box says.

Ever wonder why Texans don't snowmobile? Now you know.

Well ive been showing the dcon off since its been installed and people cant believe it hits so hard for the price

here is a short vid. i shot of the plasti-dipped bumper i did...

The first peak below tuning is due to the interaction of the driver and the port. The second peak above tuning is due to the interaction of the driver and the compliance of the enclosure. So they are both related to the driver and the design of the enclosure as a whole, but I think the answer to your question would be that the second peak above tuning is due to the driver/enclosure compliance interaction just like you would have with a driver operating in a sealed enclosure. The lower peak arises because now there is a second point of interaction for the driver, it's interaction with the port.

Perhaps some graphs will help: Driver has an Fs of 41hz. IB sealed 1ft^3 sealed 2ft^3 ported 1ft^3 50hz ported 2ft^3 50hz ported 1ft^3 70hz ported 2ft^3 70hz

Do they fit? Hellz yeah! Tight as a mutha but it fits over. The snug fit is great for this application. I highly doubt there will be any leaks! I didnt press it all the way on for the pics because once it is on I think it isn't coming off. Now on to finishing the enclosure design. This is going to be an epic trunk build! Good job with fabbing these up Adrian! I picked up an 8" 90 degree elbow for my build.