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It's almost that time. The Crescendo Audio Website is almost ready for launch, next up is their online store. Should provide a much much better browsing experience for their customers. Here is a teaser image of the site...

I did some early prototyping around this time last year on some mid-level sets and they were quite good, IMO... I decided to re-evaluate them a bit based on the listening I've had with them since that time. I received the first early prototype of the new mid-level set a few days ago and I will be replacing the 2011 prototypes in my car with these soon. The biggest change is the cone material... for a set like this that crosses over higher I prefer a paper base vs. the composite base (woven material) that the other set utilized. The set is NOT done as I plan to modify the frame on the mid as well as the motor ventilation. There will be no fancy eye-candy to the set -- very basic cosmetically with as much focus on the actual sound as possible. Once I finalize the details I will talk more about the pricing level on them. For the level of sound quality that I am shooting for it will be very fair. Here are the photos of the early set : * The crossovers use an "open tool" plastic housing but do offer some nice features; 12, 6, or full range slope on the mid LPF and also 0, -3, and -6 tweeter level adjustment. The grilles will remain a very basic model that offers good protection with little sonic interference. * Fairly standard silk dome tweeter; no frills but a nice sounding unit that is not harsh. * I really like this cone material... very smooth and natural sound. * This basket and motor are not vented at all on this early set -- that will change for thermal and acoustic reasons. * High quality spider with tight weave utilized I will work on the packaging a little bit but I don't plan to make it super fancy and waste money where there is no performance gain to be had. Once I feel the design is final I will be able to give an ETA -- as of now I cannot give one.

Tim I would go closer to your frame and not on sheet metal.

My first youtube vid's. My Dad, J and I shoting the 1919 for the first time. And me at the trigger. If you pay attention you will see me cut a branch off the tree right before blowing up a bunch of rocks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXLvyLci_QA

amazing work !

My favorite speaker company by far... I've had a Fi SSD 18" for over 2 years now. Fantastic quality subwoofer. Whoever told you that garbage needs to get their facts straight.

Forums?

Looks great! I know it will be a great improvement.

Check out the new site with the new additions. http://4xspower.com/ Still more to come, but its off to a good start.

This BL could reach 100 pages.

If you are running two Group 34 red tops, then I would get them checked. 3600 watts with a 270amp alternator should not be dropping below mid 12V range at the most with the vehicle running. Lets say you are only getting 180amps at idle. That would put you with about a 230amp pull over what your alternator is putting out at idle. 230amps divided between the batteries is only 115amps of pull each battery. This is considering you are getting all of the power out of your amps, and you are not seeing any more than 180amp from the alternator. I would check the batteries and all of your wiring. 2 D3400 should work fine with that alt on 3600watts.

Both good ideas. You can also take your roller to it prior to installation. Use of child labor to smooth it out also works. lol Just make sure you put it on a smooth surface and foil side down before they start stomping on it.

I was going to totally point you in the direction of the Zed Audio Leviathan until I saw your budget. So your budget is 300$ for a 5 channel amp that does 175-250 rms x4 @ 4 ohms and a 5th channel (or bridged 5&6 as in the case with the 6 channel Leviathan) capable of ~500rms @ what impedance? Hate to say this, but you won't find much in the 5 channel market for under 300$ and if you are focused on quality over "advertised output" that budget isn't much by todays standards.

Damn that looks fierce with the subs right there. Pretty easy mounting those woofers by yourself?

its a unibody car like mine.... No frame. Need full lenth runs from the frint. Not to frame. from the front ?? show me where you grounded your batts ? response was more for Julian than you, but since you asked.. I ran 2/0 from my alternator brackets to the rear. Plus added multiple engine to unibody grounds in front and 6 unibody grounds to my Distro blocks in the rear.

its a unibody car like mine.... No frame. Need full lenth runs from the frint. Not to frame.

More power wire!

thanks yes here ya go alt hooked up with 4/0... there was no way i could fit 2 4/0 on the alts posts... they are way to short... i barely got 1 4/0 on the positive.... 4/0 runs ran thru the firewall and loomed dont make fun of the wire mess ^^^^.... thats what happens when u do a wire tuck to the engine bay... have to find spots for all the wires so under the dash worked lol.... right now its just laying on the floor.... dont think im gonna hide the wires either... this way if i ever need to get to them i can easily... this is a project car anyways lol.... piece for the cars electrical: going back to the wall... on the left of the wire there is spots in the body where i can ziptie the wires too... ill do that once i get further along... havent cleaned up the buss bars yet... we kinda just hurried through this to get the car running again so i could get to work on time lol.... ground 1: heres wheres ground 2 will go: ground 3: heres where ground 4 will go: ooo yaaa:

if im doing a sheet metal ground thats what i do too. the reason you put it through the terminal itself is to keep it from moving. makes it a solid ground. i usually use 2 in the hole and 1 in the terminal itself. most daily setups dont need much more than that because they never really have enough current to make a difference. No, the real reason you put it through the terminal too is because your too lazy to use it the way it was intended and it may take alittle more time.. LOL

So....This is how the car came to me. Good old fashioned self tapped grounds.....but at least the paint was sanded down to bare metal........but come on.... I suppose if the hole isnt big enough.......just add a second screw! I'll never understand this..... This was done by a shop in central florida, and fixed here @ BHE

Still doesn't make any sense. He doesn't want to pay the price of the N3, so you should lose money so he can have one.

I'll make it bigger for you too to make sure that you can see it.. Consdiering a 20 dollar hunk of neo previously is now 114 dollars..I wouldn't be bitching if I were you. It's still cheaper then anybody else on the market, you can go pay 1800 dollars for a Z series woofer if you would like...that's known as raping the consumer. The price is only adjusted to the cost of materials going up..which EVERYTHING has gone up. We ate it for quite some time while I was there and the reason was waiting until the SP4 and Team versions of the subs were available, or near available. If you don't like it..it's as simple as not buying it. Go pay 1800 dollars for the Z series woofer or 1000-1200 dollars for the DC neo woofer. Also, To the "You need to sell at OEM prices" argument. Absolutely not. OEM work does not involve anywhere near as much work as the Fi product line does. OEM clients buy hundreds of speakers at a time and they are all the same which makes it easy to build and do. Margins are VERY VERY VERY slim doing OEM work in the USA so you have to sell hundreds and hundreds of them in order to make a dollar.. I don't know about you, but I don't think you would like to bust your ass for 10 hours a day and walk home with 50 bucks in your pocket. That doesn't exactly pay the bills and earn you a living. (and no, i don't work there any longer) troll on.

I answered you..go read. If you do not like the answer, i suggest you ask the yard gnomes...they have all the answers. The staff can give you a vacation if you would like to continue trolling as I gave you the answer to your question...if you're unable to comprehend it..that's not my fault.

looks like your life is going to be boring from here on out because any person with some sense would know there is nothing left to contribute to your trolling.. yet you wait.. lol, can't do it here.. the forum as a whole isn't gullible to your childish games. Any person with common sense would contact the company directly if they truly wanted to know something rather than beat around the bush. That's why many companies frown upon customers who blow things out of proportion when something may not be right with their product once it's delivered by posting extremist comments on forums before the company even knows what's going on. From what i gathered of this thread is.. I'll steer clear of your name in threads as I get more positive information from the username Google on here. Might want to take this as a wake-up call because if you keep acting childish in places other than this forum, your car audio hobby will be all to yourself and no one will want any part of it if you're involved.

I have an opinion, but you won't like it. Typically best to ask for opinions before you order something

singer 350A alt internally regulated. regulater removed.. adding the 8g leads both alts unregulated and ready for re install. 1 350A 1 250A. @1200rpms. external reglater mounted with zip ties untill permanent fixture. i havnt ran the knob inside yet either. adjustable from 12-20V relay added to turn on the regualter when the car starts and not to run all the time. success! voltage set at the alternator. picked a couple mew batts for the back also 2x 1400s 1x 800

what sense it is to be sarcastic to a guy asking a innocent question ? , if forum members dont know the answer then u simply shud not post useless answers it is advised to have sufficient headroom on any amp for any sub , usually 20% more amp power is good so if its a 1000wrms rated sub u buy a 1200wrms amp in the case of any of IA sub they can handle about 13-12 more power than rated if its a pair ur going to get : i'd recommend like a 1800-2000wrm amp provided the enclosure & install is being done properly of course