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Thought we would take it to the next level and have product introductions for each subwoofer. Still awaiting the GCON video. Thanks to Bryan from Modified for the great editing. Enjoy. DCON ICON XCON ZCON Added them to the store for their respective category also.

Buy a Copy of Loudspeaker cookbook

I replied to your email first thing this morning. For a quad of Zcon's on a pair of 5500's, to get the amplifiers to see a 1 ohm load, you are going to want to order dual 1 ohm voice coils. I suggest listening to what a few have said, at least in terms of space. Just because you had 4 L7's, that does not mean they had the proper air space. We have a few people with 5500's and 4 Zcon's, and they are all seasoned competitors with large battery banks, huge alternators (if not more then one), voltage regulators and are running walls for the Zcon's. There is no issue on ordering 4 Zcon 12D1's and a pair of Crescendo 5500's, that has some extremely high potential, BUT, if they are not given the proper air-space and supplied with sufficient current, it will be a waste of money. These are massive amplifiers that can easily put out ratted and then some, but they need huge amounts of current to do so. It would be like hiring Magnus VerMagnusson as your body guard, but only allowing him to eat two cups of rice a day and having one hand tied behind his back.

I really like the perspective it gives anyway... but then I might be a little biased since I did buy an XCON myself.... lol haha, an epic conversation I would say. Man I really love the way my icon sounds. But then again, i also love the way my zcon sounds. I'm no sq guru by any stretch. but for me. The icon was, really sharp, sounded amazing, the reproduction of the bass is what really got me. Like a heavy hitter being agile. But the zcon, oh man, you feel when the bass hits your entire surrounding. The Icon, had this like, off into the distance kind of feel, but the zcon makes you feel as if your in the path of its wavelenghts, if that makes sense. idk, I don't think you could go wrong either way.

I could see the permanent use in an SPL competition vehicle.... in a DD I dunno... maybe if a person had a higher powered DD and was strapped for cash and had to plan and save for each upgrade the volt meter could help them keep the equipment safe until they could afford the appropriate electrical upgrades.....

I'd tell work you plan on being home sick all weekend!

The main investment is lenses. But I suspect Neal is looking for a good general purpose set-up (hence all my talk about a good general purpose lens). You also have to face the fact that you probably will never have a zoom that zoom's as much as a $200 digital camera. But if you get hooked, you will end up paying more for a lens then you did your camera.... several times...

If you can master everything in the Loudspeaker Design Cookbook, you are golden. Heck, if you can master the first 3-4 chapters you are golden. There are many online calculators that are freeware, but you need to be carefull, if you don't have a good foundation of knowlege, you will make mistakes that will cost you. Research first, reads some books and then get some software. I am a fan of Bass Box Pro by Harris, but I think I had to pay about $200 for both of thier programs. When I had a Mac about 20 years ago I was using MacSpeakers by Clear Image Audio, not sure if it/they are still around. It was about $100 back then, no idea now...

Just found my old photobucket account - this really makes me wish I hadn't sold my ICON.

progress is king.. very nice,.

Yeah, that's not Tupac and he was dead 2 years before Eminem was around.

For Mr. Aaron Clinton

Chill you been drinking again?

you have to think about what the car uses just by itself also. with a 1100cca batt under the hood, big 3 done and a 220A alt i bet you still get your headlights to blink with a 2K amp. that is alot of expensive equipment to burn up, take it a step at a time. start with a 2K amp and that 220A alt with a pair of subs on it and work your way up from there when you gain the experience.

Just posting another reminder for ya David......don't forget Jason's shit!!!

It depends on the amount of power you are running, volume of your enclosure and things like your musical selection and listening habits. The purpose of a SSF is to limit the excursion of the driver at certain frequencies to decrease the possibility of damage to the driver. Of course this is a big problem for ported enclosures because of driver unloading below tuning. However exceeding the mechanical limits of the driver can also be a potential problem in sealed enclosures depending on the volume of the enclosure, amount of power, etc etc. To see if you are at risk, it's a simple matter to load the driver and enclosure into WinISD and look at the cone excursion graph. In a sealed enclosure excursion will always increase as frequency decreases, what's important to note is the frequencies at which you begin to exceed Xmax (although exceeding Xmax won't damage the driver, you don't know the Xmech of the driver so we'll use Xmax as an approximation to stay on the safe side). While it's probably pretty likely you won't really need an SSF, it is important to note where you might begin to run into problems. It helps keep you from doing stupid things like blasting a 20hz sine wave showing off for friends thinking you're "safe" because you have a sealed enclosure when it could in fact potentially damage the driver if excursion is too high in your enclosure volume with your power level. Or if you, for example, listen to a lot of classical music which can contain very low frequency reproductions. The other use for an SSF is to use it as an "equalizer" to smooth out a bloated bottom end

You don't need it. This comes from first hand experience. Unless the box is a LOT bigger than recommended it will control the excursion just fine.

You sure you're up for such a big setup not knowing how to wire your subs?

nice man, getting it flushed up. get a damn gasket for that other sub lol

im pumped!! ill have my new box for the hcca 15's in and 2 new batteries in the back lol. hoping to throw up some good numbers

Driving up after work friday for my speedpass. Not sure I'll be able to compete friday night, but I may swing in for a group hug! LOL I still have a few minor things to tackle friday night. DAVID, Don't forget the buss bars and batteries or I'm dead in the water.

By the pics the Saturday show had a better turn out than the Sunday show. Congrats to you and Dani on your wins. Go SSA and Sundown. Woot, woot! On Sunday's show BigJon had all the competitors jelly with his low tuned, body shaking box. It's not all about chasing number with Jon's setup. Congrats bro, excellent execution.

What exactly is your goal with the volt meters? I would agree with edouble that I don't see the point in having 2 meters. In most daily car audio installs I don't really see the point in having one. If you constantly run your system to the edge then the solution is to improve your electrical system, not install a volt meter.

I would suggest d2

I see a wall in that vans future. Lol. That's my vote atleast.

Both. You want to apply the CLD to both the outer & inner door skins/panels. Typically Don recommends 5-6 CLD tiles on the outer door skin (half of those on the top portion of the outer door panel above the brace and the other half on the bottom portion of the outer door skin below the brace). Then typically another 1-3 CLD tiles on the inner door panel (based on how much surface area there is, etc) applied to the most resonant areas of the panel. The purpose of the CLD isn't to block noise, it's to reduce resonance & vibrations. The MLV is to reduce road noise.

Lol this is truer than most are willing to admit. I don't think people get Q's because they play lower. People get Q's for accuracy. No, people get the Q's because they think that they want SQ but they don't understand what that means.

Doesn't matter if you are comparing the two you want the BL.

Sound quality is very biased to personal tastes. Buy the driver that is within your budget, power requirement and fits your enclosure limitations.

I know I will be giving it more power from A skar 1500d. I just thought I would try the skar. Worried about SQ, and buying one of the cheapest amplifiers?

Would you mind elaborating on that more? OK, and dammit sticky this or something because this is getting ridiculous these days... LOL... The voltage gain of an amplifier is the ratio of voltage applied to the input vs. the voltage produced at the output. This is expressed in db. An average voltage gain for a high power sub amplifier is somewhere in the vicinity of 30 db, or 5x the voltage doubling. This would mean that if the amplifier was presented with 2V on the input, it would present 64V on the output. You need to remember that audio amplifiers are voltage sources, they attempt to maintain a fixed voltage level into different impedances. Try not to forget this, it is important. This is why amplifiers have different power ratings at different impedances, because the rails will always try and swing the same voltage with the same input, and then the output stage will source the differing amounts of current required to maintain the constant voltage into the varying impedances. Ok, so we understand that amplifers are a voltage source. So now, lets look at an amplifier without a gain knob, like many older amps and most home audio amps. They have a fixed voltage gain (this is published when usable specs are actually given by manufacturers) and if we know what the voltage gain is, we know exactly what input drive will produce full ouput power into any impedance. We know this because if the amplifier is rated at say 100 watts at 8 ohms it has 29VRMS output capabilty before the rails are exhausted and clipping sets in (square root of W*Z) And we know if the amplifier is rated with 30db of voltage gain that roughly 900mv on the input will produce 29V on the output and is the maximum power (900mv * 30db = Apr. 29V) Now lets look at the amplifer with a gain knob. I has adjustable voltage gain. They usually give you around 10-15db of adjustment in overall volatge gain of the amplifier. Why isn't it expressed as db on the knob? Because most people wouldn't understand how db relates to voltage (a 6b increase doubles the voltage). So instead, they do the math for you and write a voltage level that cooresponds to the gain amount (like 200mv to 8V) and put that on the amp so you can set the voltage gain of the amp. Why do they do this? #1 so you can match multiple outputs of multiple channels/amps. #2 to increase the S/N ratio. #3 as a marketing gimmick..... #1 is easy and needs no explanation. #2 is also easy, but I will explain. The more voltage gain an amp has, the more it amplifies everything. This includes alternator whine, white noise (hiss) and everything else. The less volatge gain the amp has, the less it amplifies everything, including all of these noises. So, the lower you set the voltage gain while still being able to get the power you need out of the amp (you have sufficient voltage drive from your source) the less overall noise the system will have. This is also where matching the H/U output to amplifer gain comes into effect. #3 Would most people on here buy an amp with a gain knob or without one, if everything else was exactly the same? Think about it.... The most expensive amplifiers in the world do NOT have gain knobs. Look at any Krell, Mark Levinson, Pass Labs, etc and you will see this..... AND DAMMIT, speakers don't care about clipping.... If you are listening to any Jimi, Metalica or G-n-R, you are listening to clipping, and alot of it.... And I bet your speakers are doing just fine.... Speakers don't like too much power, that is what kills them. It kills them thermally if the enclosure alignment permits, and kills them mechanically if the enclosure alignment permits... That's it... That's all...