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YUP i sure do!

And to answer your other question the install and the enclosure will play a large role in how they will sound.

Basic facts are that even HO alts will allow the lights to dim without good battery support. All the alternator needs to do is meet the average current draw of the system. Most people would be surprised at how low that actually is with actual music (i.e. not constant, droning tones). The battery or batteries handle the heavy transient loads (you know, the ones that cause the voltage to drop and the lights to dim) pretty much regardless of the peak capacity of the alternator. The alternator is only producing the amount of current demanded of it at any given time and it takes a finite amount of time for it to ramp up the output. That transition time is when the lights dim. If you've ever used an air compressor, the compressor itself is there to maintain the pressure in the tank and the tank handles the pressure spikes. If you're running a high constant demand tool (sprayer for example) then the actual compressor matters, but for low average but high peak demand tools (like a nailer) the capacity of the tank is more important. Think of the compressor as the alternator and the tank as the baterries. Music is normally high peak, low average in demand. The batteries are more important in that situation than the alternator. If you are one of those that listens to music with constant, droning bass notes, the average demand is higher and an alternator upgrade (supported by a good battery or two) would be wise. Regardless of what you do or need (batteries or alternators) without adequate wiring to carry the current none of the rest of it matters. You need adequate wiring size (it is impossible for it to be too big) and solid connections at every terminal distro block and amp. Bad connections will not only make wire size largely irrelevant, but can also be dangerous as the resistance of the bad connection will create very large amounts of heat during high current draw situations. Fuses won't protect from a fire caused be a high resistance connection.

Could you elaborate on the why part? The years of R&D that went into the driver, to the custom designing and tooling nearly every part on the driver, to the increased overhead of a larger company and marketing costs for a company that actually spends money advertising.....there are a multitude of reasons. It's been a decade since the driver was released and it's still in the top tier of overall performance, which says a lot about the quality of the engineering and design of the driver.

There is no relation between enclosure volume and port area. None at all. Hey, just a suggestion, clean up your grammar if you want to be taken seriously...

Nope, he bought a CX-9 because the Hyundai was too small for the family, and he saw how good my Mazda's have been. Ohz. Split the booth with Don, and you can give demos while driving. Might be an idea.

We need an SSA convention. It will nothing but intense sessions of weight lifting, craft beers, BGE feasting, german car driving, and maybe a little audio. We "tried" once. Can't wait to tell my girlfriend... "You are going where?" "To meet people you know from the internet???"

here ya go Video:

Read the product descriptions, that should help answer your question about differences been models. Click on the sub menu "products".

My understanding is that SSA drivers are ultimately geared towards sq. The higher end models can handle more power, and are designed for more output. I think the zcon may be geared a tad less from sq, and more for spl/loudness. None of the drivers require their rms values, this goes for all drivers.

Xcons are fantastic drivers ! You'll love them. I had one in a 3.1 ft3 at 33 Hz and I loved it. A friend of mine had 2 15" Xcons in 4ft3 each, at 30 Hz, on 4 Sundown saz 1000 : it was incredible in his small car ! You could barely breathe at full tilt !

Just an fyi, you asked about output. You will lose SPL, but gain output. The Skar's are terrible drivers if you plan on listening to music. The specifications and "design" plan for them yields results that make me puke. Of course with reduced frequency range comes efficiency so burping a single tone perhaps would be impressive. Of course it is really rare to find music that has only that note in the bass line (and if you do I'm sure it's shitty music) so the benefits of having a driver that can truly perform will yield you large improvements. That being said, if the Skar's were in the wrong box then you may even win across the board.

Karma has been super good to me on this trip. Free flight change to better flights on the way out. Timed the trains (which only go every 2 hours) within 3 minutes of BOTH arrivals, got a free upgrade to business class on the way home and EVERY meeting went my way. Perhaps it's time to be more serious about applying for a different job. When shits rolling, roll it.

Your a bad ass. You will make it. I still wish good people wouldn't have to endure such garbage.

I hear you. I hated buying more wire. Even tho I only did it in 4 gauge because that carried more than enough amperage from the alt, which is 130 amps, to the battery. I've got some 0/1 gauge waiting to be thrown in.

Ssa shirts FTW

Keep pushing.

new amp works perfect thanks guys

after sealing off my trunk it's louder and my trunk rattles less but the back of my roof and back doors and driver side window rattle like crazy

Well Travis is getting a new amp.....that way no mistake can be made, no middle problems if something were to happen in a re-boarding process. It will be an A stock brand new amp, that has been on our bench for a few weeks running every speaker setup under the rainbow, currently a single tower running bridged at 2 ohms both channels. Using all HPF combos, and bandpass too,,,,,we replaced the amp with travis' 1100.4 JUST the same way. After about 3 hours of play time, its gotten fairly warm, as it definitely should be running at 1 ohm a channel, and its working as it should. So we've tried to find the problem, multiple times, the only thing we've seen could be a possible cause was a good sized dent on the heatsink as if it was dropped before. Other then that, hopefully the new 1100.4 recieved works as should, otherwise must be an install problem Thanks for the understanding.