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Thanks for the kind words everyone.

Baffle on. Next, port will be rounded and the box will be carpeted.

2 Gcons 12", a good ported box (@32 Hz), a single set of comp speakers, no rear speakers at all, and 2 amps : one for the comp set and one for the bass. Take a look at the sundown SA subs too. I don't remember their price though. RF amps are good, but expensive. You can find cheaper amps like Audiopipe, some Clarion,...A good 2 channels, or a small 4 channel bridged. I personnally like my Sundown amps, but they are not cheap as the Audiopipe !!! Don't go the cheap route on speakers : you need a serious set of comps. Try to listen to some if you can find a shop with some on display. Amplifiers : with your total budget, you need to go cheap, or used. There are good deals everywhere. 2 12" will be easier to fit in your trunk. You can make them fire through the cabin, but I don't know how is your car. (to lazy to google it !). Forget the 18" sub. It's not necessary. don't forget the money for all the wires, connectors, accessories,... Good luck OP

The guys Doing what they know best talking about AUDIO lol he LOVES the river steve not so much lol it was hott! jon waiting to meter cheese steves stickers my love n i super tired and hott! lincoln he won 2nd place very proud of him a lil blurry good job guys! just missing steve

I turned the old classifieds section back on. I am slowly moving the old topics back in. Please no more posting classifieds topics in the OT. It can be found here: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/forum/16-for-salewanted/ Hope this helps.

It is not the only one I use to model boxes. Always double check one to the next and final figures by hand.

Take a serious look at the classified section. You can find very good deals there. 2 12" Fi bl would be fantastic for you. You can get them and later find a powerful amp for them. But start small on amplifier power. Find out what they cal "big3" : you will need to do that, before adding any battery.

IMO you dont need rear speakers, go with a good 6 1/2'' component set (adaptor plates available) infront with a 2 channel amp.

Do you know what caused the failure when the mosfets burnt out the first time?

uh oh.. it's not a good idea to put "steal me" badges on your vehicle... I hope no one thinks you got an iron man in there...

The new suspension has been installed successfully it seems. Now that I have driven it for a day or so. It does feel a little "cushy" if that makes sense, kind of like, riding on air ^.^ As soon as the RCAs get here, we will continue to move forward and will update shortly there after.

Maybe you should've researched & took your time to do it the easiest & most efficient way??? I could've told you about the eraser wheel goofball! LOL!! I will give you credit for knowing about heating the adhesive & using fishing line.

I guess the student has become the teacher Sean?? Maybe one day Sean, you'll be loud like Senchez. I'm hoping to get there one day myself with some luck & probably a lot of his help So when do we get to see pics of the new suspension Sean (or ninjachez)?

You could gain that 0.7 from silly things like seat position, vent visor position, people bracing the outside, making sure no wires are dangling in the box etc. Try rounding the port mouth, both inside and out, use 4" pvc pipe for that. How long is the port ? You could keep the length, make the port area as big as needed to tune over 50Hz and start blocking the port until you match the peak frequency. Just you add a layer of MDF to the inner port wall, as long as the port wall and test each time. Then you can make a port blocker to get your tuning back to daily. Most of these changes can be tested in less than a day on a meter, as long as you have everything ready.

You gonna have Senchez do the advertising, box or computer?

Yes you can. You need the Dual 2 version of the sub to get a 4 ohm load btw.

WTF? I can't even have my own build log.. Damnit... When the shit hits the fan, better be ready for the result. I'm aimin for a 175 daily driver now.. Nah, lol.. i am not that stupid, hehe. It will be couple more days before i can get started on it again... Got to get a box design done, one more computer done, some advertising done, THEN.. i can begin again.

You can post mine too...if I ever take any

Yes, Team is the 1st part......you are correct grasshopper I was just messing with ya lil bro.....LOL! I actually don't mind you posting my CAR AUDIO related pics.

I know......I'm jelly Maybe one day I'll be loud like you bro.....one day :/

Generally speaking, an 18" will have more cone area then two 12". Your head-unit only has one set of rca outputs: "2V rear/sub selectable preamp outputs," which means if you use the outputs for the subwoofer, then you can't really amp your front speakers. You could use the single output as rear, then use another device to split the signal for highs and low, but I wouldn't bother. Personally I would want to amp my front speakers, so I would end up buying another head unit. With a depth of 35.5", 17" height, and 40" width, and using 0.75" MDF material for the box, you have around 11 ft^3 to work with. Fi BL 18" requires 5-8 ft^3 for a ported enclosure, two ssd12 would require 3.5-5ft^3 total, and one ssd 18" would require 6-10ft^3. Brand new the 18" bl would be around $334 ish, two 12" ssd $400, and $254 for a single 18" ssd. I have no experience with trunk cars, but I would try an 18" ssd upfiring, and with the money saved I would replace the head-unit, front speakers, and get a nice 500w-1000w amp for the sub. If you aren't comfortable woodworking, and don't know anyone around you, you can get a box built online, but the shipping is hefty. Check out the vendor section here for box builders.

Two 12" SSDs would be a good option as well.

What kind of music? Long droning bass notes, or kick drum and bass guitar? If the former, the alt will probably have to be upgraded. If the latter, it actually might not. It comes down to average current draw, not peak. Likewise, even with a 200A alt, the batteries are going to be handling the peak current transients and the alternator is only going to replace the energy that was pulled from the batteries during the lulls. I wouldn't expect more than 100A or so over the run to the back, even if the amp draws over 300A on a musical peak. That peak current is coming from the rear batteries. The alt certainly can't provide it. As such, all you care about is the voltage drop caused by that amount of current. For 100A, 1/0 is more than enough to make sure that volatge drop is minimal.

such a tease with the short amount of pics you dirty filthy little whore

Basic facts are that even HO alts will allow the lights to dim without good battery support. All the alternator needs to do is meet the average current draw of the system. Most people would be surprised at how low that actually is with actual music (i.e. not constant, droning tones). The battery or batteries handle the heavy transient loads (you know, the ones that cause the voltage to drop and the lights to dim) pretty much regardless of the peak capacity of the alternator. The alternator is only producing the amount of current demanded of it at any given time and it takes a finite amount of time for it to ramp up the output. That transition time is when the lights dim. If you've ever used an air compressor, the compressor itself is there to maintain the pressure in the tank and the tank handles the pressure spikes. If you're running a high constant demand tool (sprayer for example) then the actual compressor matters, but for low average but high peak demand tools (like a nailer) the capacity of the tank is more important. Think of the compressor as the alternator and the tank as the baterries. Music is normally high peak, low average in demand. The batteries are more important in that situation than the alternator. If you are one of those that listens to music with constant, droning bass notes, the average demand is higher and an alternator upgrade (supported by a good battery or two) would be wise. Regardless of what you do or need (batteries or alternators) without adequate wiring to carry the current none of the rest of it matters. You need adequate wiring size (it is impossible for it to be too big) and solid connections at every terminal distro block and amp. Bad connections will not only make wire size largely irrelevant, but can also be dangerous as the resistance of the bad connection will create very large amounts of heat during high current draw situations. Fuses won't protect from a fire caused be a high resistance connection.

The Gcon 12 is an excellent choice !

Welcome to the "over power your sub" club. Looking good.

I mention that from time to time, and some people just don't know or remember. SSA and SIN were one of the first to have brand vendor forums. Neither of us charged for it for a very long time. Speaking to everyone reading this, not just Brad; Once brand forums became standard on all the other forums, as around 2007/2008 is when we saw the rampant duplication of our layout, vendor forums became monetized. In the same train of thought of Milne, many of these brands who cannot handle criticism or think they have to present a synthetic perfect image to customers, have taken the delusional mind set of that since they are paying for a section, they think they should have total control over the data or information in relation to their products. Well, that is flat out incorrect, the data belongs to the owners of the forum, the vendors are paying for the right to have a dedicated section, nothing more. What is worse is when the forum staff (moderators or owners), think they need to delete any negative feedback to protect their vendors or butt buddies. Then what happens is people try to understand via PM or email, then they get banned. You will never see that here (as Brad said). This is clearly a very bad issue at amateur hour forums, where deeply rooted issues of insecurity and pissing contests are the standard psychological mindset. And no, I'm not referring to the 16 year old kids who just got their first car and want to out do their buddies in the school parking lot, I am talking about the 30-40+ somethings that still have not grown up and feel it is completely okay to act the way the 16 year old's do, the difference being is that they have gained 'post delete' or 'ban member' functions. Where this problem becomes HUGELY damaging, is when the young crowd, specifically the above mentioned 16 year old's fresh onto the audio scene are fed blatant lies, half-truths or are completely miss-led due to lack of honest information. This becomes clearly evident when you read posts on other forums by younger members that say something along the lines of "Well I have not heard anything bad about them, and they were good to me, so I'm going to stick with them", essentially saying that they don't care that others have been screwed over because it was not them. What those kids don't understand is that they are only perpetuating the bottom of the barrel 'companies' and forums to continue to thrive, be it with poor by passable product or be it with massively distorted or slanted information available. This in turn continues to have an effect on the perception of car audio as a whole, and why it is becoming a lesser and lesser enjoyable hobby as it once was. Much of this fake presentation is supported by giving out free product under the guise of a review. This breeds the blind fan boys that only add more fuel to the above mentioned issue of distorted/filtered/false information to assist in making money off people who don't know better who end up buying inferior product or buying from an inferior company. /sadly I know this rant won't make a difference or effect much of anything

I had a great weekend with the shows I would like to thank all of the organizations I'm part of! Team SSA Team IAK Project Mayhem Car Club MECA 2nd place "Poor Boy's Classic Chevy Club Show - Waverly TN 2nd place "June Jams" - lebanon TN (Show & Shine - SUV/Van) Most Improved "June Jams" - Lebanon TN 1st Place "June Jams" - Lebanon TN (S1) I did a 141.1 @ the Headrest with no tuning/prep work off a 30amp fuse Most action to come soon! I will admit though, between just traveling, gas, food, entry fee and everything else, this can be a damn expensive hobby. The things you don't think about lol. I REALLY wish steve of MECA would order some better damn Trophies! LBVS! I know there is suppose to be sentimental value behind these, but damn, 9.99$ just makes it depressing. The trophie I got from Sat's show is heavy AF with real marbel/wood. I think these are 59.99 each. But of course, MECA has no sponser, from some reason, so I guess I could understand that. It was very hot today, over 100 degrees, but I did enjoy myself, minus the heat.

Photo Shoot 06/01/2012 for Project Mayhem Car Club There was over 300 photos taken, all of the above where taken by me though lol Photographer handed me her backup cam as she went to go make a quick errand. Also, this is this models first shoot. Hope you guys enjoy I had a great time.