Leaderboard

Skar

Got some severe hail damage the other day ... Hoping to get the body work started, We installed a fiberglass Cowl hood on White Lightning the other afternoon ... It's just mocked up, still gotta do some trimming, sanding, filling, priming, defacing, etc before paint and clear. Decided to take some pics to see what evey one thinks and it started to get dark, so I fired up the LEDS ... Sorry for the "Unfocused" pics ... LOL

Kicker is now sold at WalMart, enough said

New Jaguar:

Yawn lets see some pics of actually building

IMO look at Zed's user manual and draw some inspiration. His may be a little overboard, but it goes well beyond just explaining the product and includes quite a bit of educational information. http://zedaudiocorp.com/pdfs/ZedManual-2012.pdf

No matter how obvious.. Well, i'd like to see Ethos in there somewhere, hehe. Seriously, name of company, all contact info, motto\pledge, etc.., TS parameters, suggested box volumes for ALL applications, not general recommendations. Some response graphs (this will help the marketing more since you are giving the customer something no one else does) Coil configuration diagrams Troubleshooting section Explanation of TS parameters Enclosure building tips and suggestions to use Pre-Troubleshooting- teach the customer what to look for before something bad happens.

https://www.box.com/s/6s0lgnm7rssf08dyf71h https://www.box.com/s/z90mig8p3utdsdarszxa https://www.box.com/s/r29n9f8pzrrksgzsef1m Now, dont forget to do the harlem shake

The fuse is for the wire, not the electronics, size accordingly. Just make sure you didn't by CCA. If you did, upgrade to copper before you install anything...

That is really weak, you should just pack it all up and send it to me. Seriously though, that is madness for a single speaker.

What possible good is it to filter DC when the amplifier should not be producing this signal in the first place? That's the sole reason for the damage which people just keep looking past and don't quite comprehend. People are THINKING things, and not listening to someone who KNOWS things.

i fucking love me some SSA man..

The btl's have 16 tinsel leads, double the size and strand count, which is 4x what any other manufacture is using and there is still the occasional issue. Surface area and 'more tinsel lead' isn't going to solve the issue Something for you to chew on.. ..if the problem at hand is a result of those polluting up the creek..why should i have to re-engineer my fishing pond to accommodate for the people that live up the creek from my pond and are too cheap/uneducated to build a bridge? they are the ones dumping oil and contaminants from their trucks in the water and killing off all of my fish in my pond that is fed by the creek that they pollute..but i'm suffering the consequences of them squeezing a dollar? The 'most ideal' way I mentioned of doing it before is patented and unavailble.

The tinsel lead is hooked to a coil homie..you have a rearword / back traveling EMF shooting back up the wire of the coil from the magnet being 'switched' and the cone moving back up.. Then the amplifier gates on the fets are telling it to go back down..when it's trying to go back up, and heat starts building up in the leads when the gates are switching at X frequency of the mosfets in the output stage. This is a combination of the EMF trying to go out of the coil, through the tinsel leads, and back into the amplifier...and the amplifier trying to tell everything to go back the other way. It crashes in the tinsel leads and that is where the stress point is, from movement, to heat, to high frequency noise, to EMF. There's a whole host of issues all popping up at the exact same spot and if it all lines up the same way it glows and explodes. You see an ice cube here, the coil around the ice cube is the exact same thing as the coil that is inside of the motor of the speaker..there's no difference there.

You can a take a jbl/crown a6000gti that does 8800 watts into a 5.8 ohm load and never burn a tinsel lead up, nor burn a coil up. They held up in the extreme van for many hundreds of burps and finished 2nd in the death match in extreme 3-4 with absolutely no cooling at all what so ever when Mike Bartells was still competing with the BTL's a number of years ago. This is a class a/b amplifier and does not 'switch' per-se. There is no radio frequency noise being induced by the output stage of the amplifier itself into the leads. You can take an amplifier from a series of korean buildhouses which are all kissing cousins of each other and 1 in 3 have high frequency induction issues because they all use the same driver controller board on the output fets operating within a given frequency range..which is not filtered out. So, given this information and the korean built amplifiers of said buildhouses do less than half of the power of the crown amplifier, and by definition more wattage present = more heat energy, what is going on? It's impossible for an amplifier design to be flawed and cause significant excess heat generation to occur right? It's doing less than half of the power of the Crown amplifier..how could it possibly be burning things up if Ohm's law still stands and is a law of science? A watt is a watt, and is a measure of the rate of transfer of energy per time division..whether it is heat/time or work/time, it always goes back to joules of energy per second of exposure. I've personally reconed 10 or 12 woofers that were hooked to that style of 3000 watt amplifier from that build house that had failed and took the sub out with it..with all various tinsel lead setups from other manufactures outside of what we did. They were made during a period also when silica was hard to come by and quality control of mosfets out of the orient went to crap putting it politely. Are any of the lead setups the absolute 'perfect' way of doing things? No. The most correct way of doing things is patented, for really good reason.

so subwoofer build error and amp build error is out of the question? companies make mistakes FI basically blames large korean amps sending microwaved signals but OP has a quality sundown..... if all but 1 had a coating then there's still no way for them to touch each other and short out OP even noticed something funny about the sub before the fire It has nothing to do with the sub itself, really. Even though his amp is a Sundown, it still operates on the exact same principles as any other amp. To add to what Nick said, what typically happens is that the high frequencies of the power supply that convert the vehicles 12v power to the +/- higher voltage for the amp to create it's output with doesn't get filtered like it should. Now whether it's by shotty design (cheap amps) or as the case may very well be here that something in the amp has failed, it's still the same cause. The OP may be able to test for it by connecting a DMM with frequency measurement and ACV to the output of the amp with no RCA's attached. If he sees a high frequency on the output and is able to measure anything above a minimal (< tenths of a volt) amount of AC voltage then he definitely has an issue with the amp. The best test would be with an O-scope, but not many people have those lying around. Fi sub or not, I think this would have happened and I'm sure it's related directly to a failure in the amp itself.

SP4's do not have sandwiched leads, they are sewn on the top spider inbetween the spacer, aside from that there is nothing wrong with sandwiched leads to begin with. Sub-par amplifiers shooting ultra high radio frequency noise will cause the tinsel leads to glow..if it's not filtered out. Speakers do what you tell them to do, no matter what..it is an input device that takes whatever you give it, and makes it into sound. Email me your contact info and i'll try to give you a call this evening and go over some stuff with you. In the meantime, watch the video. Edit: I would also get your amplifier checked out, that looks like the end result of several of those 3000d's i've seen issues with. It looks like straight DC voltage to me.

This is definitely user error. There must be something you are leaving out of the story.

Thanks Kay, I appreciate the kind words, I do try. Notorious, all emails are answered through yesterday, if I did not reply please resend your email and I will get you taken care of.

Fi responded to a similar issue occurring previously. give the thread a read, http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/subwoofers/73884-fis-response-burning-tinsel-leads.html

So I need to buy a new top bracket is what you're saying?

not necessarily i lose a full DB by having people hold my trunk and my doors shut.... i guess she needs to breath lol @ comparing a lincoln trunk car with 2 subs to a walled civic on 16k watts