Leaderboard

It's very useful when used as they designed it. Their design principles however, are the foul here. It's just another one of those "tools" that people think is cool and will buy on ignorance. This guy who is on Youtube and has done nothing more than stuff a bunch of woofers in an SUV on a bunch of power and run around recording people listening to his shit, and people think he's cool and he knows what he is doing. The fact of the matter is, he's done nothing special, in fact, anyone could have done this. He's taking advantage of his "popularity" to make a buck. It's that simple, but people see his videos and they automatically assume this guy is really good with audio and knows what he is doing, so they'll listen to whatever he says.

Well the time has come... I have always wanted a vehicle dedicated to just stereo, and the other day I found one i've always wanted so I pulled the trigger on it. 1996 2 Door Tahoe, 350 Small Block 4WD. Still unsure exactly what is going to happen to this poor truck, but it will be Evil to say the least. Stay tuned....

Kinda funny, but at first glance, the damage appears to be a shadow of the Warner Bros. Tazmanian Devil.

In case you didn't look closely at the photos, the port is wrapped in suede. That is not paint.

Fucking nailed that interview. And now we play the waiting game.

FR towers baffle cut

You don't necessarily need to SEAL the doors, it can't truly be done anyway. The best thing to do is to prevent the back wave from behind the speaker in the door from getting out and the most efficient way to do so is to block/absorb it. It also helps keep the door workings uncovered/modified so it can still be worked on without ruining your deadening. Put the CLD tiles on the door, all you need is 25% coverage on each panel. When I say each I'm referring to the outside/exterior door panel and the inner/interior door panel the plastic hangs on. That will help with unwanted resonances from the sheet metal. The next step would be to build and mount a solid baffle for the speaker to mount to in the door. Mounted directly to the sheet metal, or to that flimsy factory plastic baffle, just isn't the best way to mount the mid. Losses in output, distortions or colorations of midrange frequencies, vibrations and rattles are problems associated with having a flimsy mounting surface. How much effect it has varies from driver to driver and vehicle to vehicle but is and should be a minimum for any installation. The next step would be to obtain and apply CCF (closed cell foam) to the door. Don from SoundDeadenerShowdown prefers applying it to the door with velcro for easy removal and I agree with that myself so the door can be worked on later without tearing up the CCF. CCF cushions all the points where rattles can/will happen. Lastly obtaining and applying MLV (mass loaded vinyl) over the CCF in the same manner with the velcro will complete the deadening and be about the most effective deadening you can do. The MLV absorbs/blocks the back wave, road/vehicle noises, and most all other sounds that aren't the music coming from the speakers inside. Reading up on SoundDeadenerShowdown.com will help you with your research. After performing these steps, if your midbass is still lacking THEN we can help with changing drivers, but as I previously mentioned these should be the minimal steps taken for everyone's speaker installations to help ensure they're getting the most for their money. I have completed all these steps except for the installation of the MLV in my Jimmy. The midbass response from the modest components I have installed in it is fantastic and surprises most everyone who listens to it when I tell and show them there's no sub or any other speaker in the truck making the bass they're hearing and FEELING. Not a bad feat for some 6.5" drivers IMO. Here's some examples. Here's the CLD tiles, right about 25%. Here's my CCF. I stuck it directly to the door since I already had a large amount of RaamAudio's UOI peel n stick CCF on hand. I covered all the holes with it but didn't cover where the window motor is. Here's the baffle I built for my doors. Three layers of 3/4" MDF with a flush mount for the mid. They're bolted to the door with some foam behind them to help decouple the baffle from the door, seal it to the door, and allow wiggle room for getting the angle just right to go through the door card. Here's what it looks like finished. Hope that helps explain and show some of the processes for sound deadening and installation.

Personally I'd change the design or make a second version that focused on reaching further. A 6.5" midbass should play higher and doesn't quite need to play as low. As for a 6.5" sub, well I think everyone knows how I feel about 8's so...

~408 plus shipping to SSA. Doing it yourself will really save you some money.

Go to the store it says everything you need to know when you are in the section for xcon recones. Proceed to the checkout and it'll tell you shipping. Not to sure how long it would take if you ship the motors in but there's tons of videos that show how to recone a sub. It'll save you quite a bit of money.

The reason why one track is louder than the other, is because music is dynamic, and so is the source from which you obtained the song from. That being said, it is clear to see why the dd-1 is a waste of a tool. Sure, it may sound great on Track A, but on Track B, its not the same, so are you gonna reset Track B to sound like Track A? Maybe, but then when you go back to play Track A, you blow a woofer or two. Do you see where I'm going with this?

PT Cruiser with a wall? Who does that?

little off topic, but does your cat have a beard lol