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Surprised search didn't show anything. Simply put. Your sub should only play bass. These are low notes. Your tweeters should only play treble. The are the high notes. Your mids should only play what the tweeters and sub aren't. These are the middle frequencies. Two different ways to do this: 1) Utilizing a passive crossover. These are non-powered electronics that will cause the frequencies to roll off at a selected design point. 2) Utilizing an active crossover. These are powered electronics that will cause the frequencies to roll off at a selected design point. Considering all GOOD passives incorporate some sort of eq & level balance this also needs to be mimic'd in the active world. Normally this will mean some nice equalizer to go along with the crossover. A non-eq'd active setup will sound a SHIT ton worse than a passive setup that is designed well. Basically when you choose active, you are thinking you can do a better job that a marketing $ limited engineer. This requires an ear and a lot of patience and of course is completely customizable to your tastes. Easy choice if you have a great ear and are capable of searching like crazy, doing a ton of technical reading, and generally really are passionate about music. Active all the way then. If you aren't the above the choice is also easy and not the same.

Seems like Karma. I would just get some good carpet cleaner and try that....spraying milk on it seems like a bad idea to me.

http://kareyellendesigns.blogspot.com/2010/09/how-to-get-egg-out-of-carpet-omg-moment.html BOOMBA, google is an awesome tool.

Thats right! We are the only online authorized dealer for MMATS Pro Audio. We are starting to get the products online. They are giving us first crack at their Pro Audio Mid's line. Check them out! http://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/brands/MMATS-Pro-Audio.html

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/user/21138-nousername/ Almost 23. Time to grow up and enter the real world, son.

You're right, you should be embarrassed that at 22 years old you were out egging.

It was worth a shot.

Check the NICKELODEON forums, im sure those kids will have more experience with this sorta thing.

too much photography mumbo jumbo, not enough boobies.

This is very bad. Damage to equipment easily happens this way.

Ordering: The Fi Audio website is easy to navigate. From the time I ordered the subs until the arrived at my house was around two weeks. Unboxing impression: The motors and surround are large. These are no heavy weight contenders but for IB use they are beefy. The surround lets you know that these are high xmax drivers. Install: I am using two IB315's powered by a Sundown Audio SAZ1500D v.3 @ 1 ohm and they are mounted IB in my 2008 Hyundai Elantra. The motors are facing the back seat. I use different settings for SQ and daily listening. For SQ I am using a 40hz/12db high pass and 50hz@18db low pass with a -13db cut on my H/U. This unusual cross over setting is the only way I was able to tame a heavily boosted low end. Dual 15" subwoofers with a high qts and small trunk in my vehicle is what dictated this. My JL Audio 8" midbass drivers mounted in the kicks help blend the subs into the front stage. For daily listening I use a 20hz/18db high pass with a 80hz/36db low pass with a -3db cut on my H/U. This gives me a heavily boosted low end. I often bump the sub bass level down on my H/U even for daily listening. ​Listening conclusion: I never had an install that produced 20-30hz frequencies to this extent. The overall SPL level isnt the loudest but the music reproduction under 30hz is nuts. I am very impressed with the design of these woofers. There are no mechanical noises and they soak up every watt of the 1500D. As with the unusual DSP settings I find the power consumption of the IB315's to be unusual for this class of driver. Most IB subs are not this power hungry. The design goal for the IB3 series is evident to be superior sub bass reproduction at a relatively high SPL level. Having a high QTS they may perform even better in a larger trunk or as a true infinite baffle setup in home or theater that may require less EQ and xover adjustment. For a SQ install two of the IB315 is certainly overkill. There is enough output to easily overcome the front stage. ​Conclusion: In my small sedan I do not see it possible to achieve this level of reproduction from 20-30hz while maintaining full use of the cargo area and spare tire. 30-80hz is impressive as well but the overall SPL level could be higher with typical ported enclosure sub stage. IMO 20-30hz with this much authority is very impressive and hard to achieve. From a biased SQ perspective this area of the sub stage requires heavy tuning. A battle of both worlds Pics: (I am using custom carbon fiber dustcaps)

Your order is nearing the top of the production queue. We will update you as soon as it is completed and on the shipping truck.

I didnt get twisted or serious about anything. Your title says epic trolling. Myself and others simply pointed out thst no trolling had taken place.

pics!?

Busy day! Cut the grass, cut the mdf, paint new door, and install new door. On with the pictures!

Gotta be careful getting super crazy deals like a 3500 for $150.. If you knowingly know that the price being offered is considerably less than ideally possible, then that's enough to convict you of receiving stolen property.

It is an FCON proto, I'm sure it's a bit different than the final design that became the GCON. But Aaron can give you a better answer I'm sure.

yea but theres less chance of phubbing it up with port area, length, ect ect

Sweet tuned in. Ported should be louder lower.

The only thing i got from this post/video is that kyle doesn't know what trolling is. This was far from that, just a dude standing outside a rig in a thong.

Fucking Bo, I know him personally and this is him like 24/7. At MWSPL finals he wore a Ductape banana hammock because of the no duct tape forward of the bpillar rule.

The image dynamics sub is great, the only limitation being that it won't do 150db... I find it to be a very accurate and transient sub, that being said, I personally prefer more headroom for when I feel the need for bass. It will perform well, but if you love a lot of electronica, or heavy bass music, you might want more output. I know that they can perform, i've heard a fair share of Image Dynamics speakers, and to date they have been responsible for some of the most accurate sounding vehicles I have had the pleasure to listen to. There are other options: Fi Q SSA GCON

Doesn't really help to throw out an RMS rating of the sub, it doesn't have anything to do with what you are looking for, and doesn't mean/correlate to anything... Best budget "SQ" sub on the planet right now would be a Parts Express Dayton HO/HF 12 or 15 driver. Less than $150, IIRC...

I have no idea who you egged, but you are making yourself sound foolish, and that you got what you deserve. Either way, get some resolve carpet cleaner, and don't post about doing damage to other peoples property on this board in that way anymore. No one wants to be associated with that behavior.

And yet you are out egging other people's property, don't know that carpet cleaner exists, I'm sure the list goes on. Sounds like a bunch of little punks to me.

i've always been a sealed fan. They just seem to have better low end. then again ive never tuned a box to be under 34hz

nah i think you guys got it twisted.. Is why you guys didn't get it smh

That's hilarious. Try bleach.

165 for a pair lol?

I aint bleaching shit. Not that stupid. Shit didnt even know they made carpet cleaner LOL

You have the option not to reply. But ok Mom, thanks for the life advice

How the hell do you know my age?>

2500 dodge ram with factory alt. i have been having major voltage drop issues with my Fi SP4 that i installed so i think its time to upgrade. i run 2 group 31 batteries 975CCA each, how many of these could i run off a single alt? how large of an alternator could i run in my truck and what will it cost? would i need to run more than one for my power demands? about 380A of sound system, a 5KW power inverter and a 450A winch.

So....I'm going to be there....who wants to give me a demo while I'm down there?

i just got my sub hooked up and my chasing electrical issues. while testing the sub i noticed the dust cap got very very warm, to the point of me wanting to pull my hand away when i touched it. the sub was not reaching xmax and was also not fully powered. i have the sub wired as follows to a ZX2500.1. now i noticed that the kicker amp flashes protect when the bass hits but its not constant. so i expected there to be a grounding issue. i ran all new 0ga power and ground using 5/8" brass bolts and nuts and 1/8" brass flat washers on a freshly grinded clean section of my frame rail. im replacing my alt wire to 0ga and am looking into a new alt. all this said i feel that the dust cap issue is unrelated to the grounds. now i have had some extensive courses in digital design so i thought i would put them to use in building a 2D model representation of my 3D diagram i built on how i wired my sub: please do not comment on my skil as an artist as i know im very good. i am however interested i knowing if this is wired correctly for a 2 ohm load on a dual 1 ohm coil sub.

But i have no clue how to clean this. Back 2 weeks ago me and some buddies were out egging and a egg broke in my back seat on the carpet on the floor. I thought i had cleaned it all but i guess i missed a few spots. Fast forward to today i look back there and there's god damn mildew growing on my carpet!!!! How the hell do i clean this? I know milk kills mildew, so i was thinking vacuum, spray milk, let it soak, spray lightly with soap and water and re vacuum... This is freaking sad... im not a scum