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Like Jon said heat is normal HOT is not. If you truly want to feel comfortable I would take Jon up on his offer. Bring him a bottle of jagermeister and have him check all of your settings. He is a smart dude and will make sure that you don't have any issues. BTW I added the jagermeister part

This is with the amps still at the lowest gain level and no tuning.

People think I'm nuts when I say we should legalize drugs.

I was getting the error also. I quick support email to Aaron and the problem went away. Try emailing him if you haven't already

I feel like there should have been a test you had to pass to be able to breed for the last 20-30 years. I lose my faith in humanity a little more each day.

I'm referring to SSA not Fi, two different companies. Both are top notch companies but SSA's customer service is unmatched.

Support the SSA store, pickup the crescendo.

Guess i will give a sneak peak to our ssa crew first, this is my new project car. 1986 Ford Taurus See what happens to it in the next few weeks.

IAK art

IAK Colts swag

IAK lady swag

Burp

Attribute to MLK downtown Indy.

How hot are we talking? All subs warm up, it's a byproduct produced from the electric current flowing through the coil. Damn beat me to it. Bloody slow tablet.

oh bad ass... dude im 25 mins south from you if you want me to look at it and put your worries to rest.

ok.. how hot are we talking.... heat is NORMAL... by the dust cap being warm only proves that the cooling design is doing its job! now.. is it hot to the touch.. like burning? or is it warm and to hot? and the most important thing is.. does it STINK!!!???... lastly.. have you pulled it.. look to see just how dark the coils are? now.. some statements. playing under tuning will not cause a sub to run hot... it will cause other fatal issues.. but heat is not one of them.... but what will cause heat is decaf music... its proven that its clipped from the start.... so when you put it in your deck.. its sending a clipped signal to your amp.... then depending on your settings on your amp and heat unit .. it may be ADDING more distortion.... to your sub... that is a full on dumb and stupid.... it only does what its told to do ... subs are the stupidest piece of equipment in your car.... same as the power wire and the RCAS... it does what its told.. nothing else. im going to go with clipping as the issue .. IF there is one...... but like i said to start with... a sub SHOULD be warm to hot after 30 mins of wangning.

Or use their ears.

Slogan and theme song could be "bass ballin'"

Right off the top of my head standard inductance is 4mH, so figure it'l be lower than that with the ring. Xmech off the top of my head is around 40mm, but you run out of surround at 32mm, and xmax is 27mm which is the breaking point of linearity...I wouldn't push them past xmax as things start to lock up and you'll be buying stock in recones.

This morning I got on the forum, as I usually do when I wake up, and I saw Fi added their team fi sub to their website but there is nothing that's shows up when I click on it. Will all the subs specs and a couple pics be uploaded today?

So i did some math on pricing for our drivers here on the site. I took in all drivers that would be in the same rms class as us. Havoc-12 379Skar zvx-12 419Sundown z -459IA DP- 459Icon 12- 349 Average price of a 1500w rms 12 is $419 Our MLD series is priced at $335 shipped. Tomorrow i will be doing the other sizes to see where we stand. I know it still might be a risk to try us out but Mark and the gang believe in us and i think you guys should too.

Just a thread to see who all is gonna be at slamfest this year. Were gonna be there this year already got the room booked!!

I want to use 2 6" or 1 8" for my next box since it will allow me to tune lower and also give me more internal space using the same dimensions. But on the face of the box I can't actually use a flare like the one Adrian has or the ones that partexpress sells, because it won't fit. Now can I use a round over bit on the port opening of the wood to make it a flare? Pic below is how I made a box for 4 15s and I had 4 6" pvc pipes. It's double baffled. The front baffle was used as .75" of the port length since the pvc didn't go all the way out of the box. It only went into the inner baffle. So can I use a round over bit to make the outer baffle a flare by using the bit? I'm not sure how big of a bit I would use, but a little flare is better than nothing right?

Not really.... Can't order it via the normal way of getting a sub order in.