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That there is sig material

You should never use the bass boost on the amp or on the HU. When you dial the bass boost up you are essentially asking the amp to try to amplify the bass frequencies even more than it already is. There is almost no situation where that's a good thing. The reason why is because it will send the signal into distortion VERY quickly/easily and a clipped signal is a quick way to cause equipment failures. The amp will draw excess current resulting in undue strain on your electrical system and excess heat from the amp. The clipped/distorted output signal going to the sub(s) will heat the voice coils unnecessarily and if it/they are already being driven to the limits of it/their cooling abilities then damage will very likely result. Just trust us, don't use the bass boost. Let your friends destroy their crap with it while you enjoy yours for as long as you own it.

That SK-1500 amp used to power that zcon. lol yeah, but he has the amp, it will be now powered of rf1500bdcp, birth sheet shows 1800+ watts at 1ohm at 14.4, so i figure 1650ish at 13.8/14 That should be plenty to get it moving!

Train your ear and listen attentively to EVERY song. ALWAYS. As for setting, start conservative and work from there. Goal should be to not only setup your ride right but teach yourself how to listen.

Ermagerd. Roflmao

Speaking of sounding like a vagina

Big shout out to Senchez & Teric for bringing home some hardware in their state finals! Congrats fellas!! Post pics & scores for us to gawk at

Spam!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hell yes!

A DMM at home depot is $10 bucks. Just as useful, actually more useful.

And tens of millions of others have yet to loose a sub. The just spent about $200 less doing so.

Berberine, agmatine, arginine, BCAA's, sodium bicarbonate, citrullene, garlic, ginkgo biloba, st. johns wart, plenty others.

Yes you do. But you're assuming way too much. Your speaker is not a perfect 1 ohm deviceYour amplifier has some sort of impact on that resistanceYour amplifier is most definitely not 100% efficient.And all this is besides the point. As others point out your settings on your amplifier and the signal it is receiving is what determines your output. It also takes power to make power. It's possible that your electrical system isn't up to the task to provide a proper amount of current for your amplifier to make it's rated/claimed power. To your original post, I ran two 15" dcons and absolutely adored them. Ported with aeroports like you were suggesting tuned to about 33hz. They are delectable woofers

Awesom

Today's progress ripped out the whole trunk and removed old Dynamat Deadener for Murder Mat which will be hear tomorrow. Installation will be next Monday while I'm on vacation. New box fits & new tweeters in finally.

Minus environmental acoustical gain, yes I thought i had read that in the loud speaker cookbook but was not for sure. So why do subwofer companies not do large signal parameters instead? The good ones do small, large and A LOT more. Then others for instance don't even know what t or s are. Kevin for instance. Just refreshing IMO to see someone who is offering a driver bring up discussion points that are not only relevant, but show that hiding information is not the protocol of the business. Definitely gives me a lot more confidence in doing business with Quentin.

After I seen the price tag of the 80.1 I think I need to go change my boxers now!

some updates from today and Thursday night. 1/4 inch round over used on inside of port walls, as well as very small 45 degree angle pieces on all interior corners (would have coved them but my only cove bit for my router is too big for what I wanted). Still have to cut the side wall for the port side, (as previously mentioned accidentally cut 1" too short in my sleepy state of haste previously) and as such need to get some more wood. Will be using the 1/4" roundover on the front edge of the port opening as well. And 2 braces that will be installed later (one front to back, one top to bottom)