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It is always good to have a few box designs and builds under your belt before leaping into something extreme.

Stetsom is the most efficient amp brand i know of if you are literally referencing efficiency of power draw to power output. High output Stetsom amps that are still 12v have typical efficiency levels at their lowest ohm loads in the low, mid to high 80% whereas others are typically 10% below that. However, Stetsom's business capability in the USA is not so efficient as they are hit n miss in both customer service AND DESIGN Quality control. Because of this, i cannot ever recommend them until they change their business strategy.

Julian 2 1" layers? I have never built any of my walls like that mainly because to save weight but i also do not compromise enclosure integrity either. Where there is only 1-2 layers of 3\4" wood, it is made up with bracing. In my vehicles, i actually use the frame of the vehicle in most places as the bracing so it can't flex out so basic internal bracing with 2x4s and some steel is all that is necessary. Stiff as can be once completed and never a problem. My first wall i built, i intentionally made it single later with minimum bracing so i can see how long it would last and what would fail.. Once i got this information, i changed what type of glue i use, fasteners and design method. Now i can use minimal wood without compromising design integrity to save weight. As or speakerboy, i would say not to do a wall. I would design a street box to fit from the B pillar if you need to all the way back. And as bassahaulic said as well, walls and batts do not decrease mpg all that much. In my last car, i had ~1350lbs added and i STILL got the same mpg in the city, i just lost about 8mpg on the highway. But with weight period, watch the level of your vehicle. If the top of the tires starts to get lost, stop adding weight or upgrade suspension. Suspension is typically weakest link in weight ratings. suspension(and everything else tied into it), brakes, engine, transmission, chassis.. all account for rating.

Pretty much the feeling I had; but you know me, I had to ask, I am a daydreamer. As far as box design, I have one more question for this thread, I don't think it's enough to make a whole nother thread about, Do the obsidians sound alright sealed? If so, I think I'd build a slightly oversized sealed box for them, and if it isn't enough, i'll put some aeroports in it. Also that way I could then mess with the tuning to find what sounds good in the truck. Figured i'd answer this one. The Obsidian's are pretty overbuilt 2.5" coils that can sound very good in a sealed box. Everything you've heard about them taking gobs of power just isn't true for daily. You can burp high power to them all day long, but there is a reason Nic warranties and rates them @ 600 RMS. If you want them to get loud you will need to port them. If your intentions are to port your sealed box you made then make sure you build the sealed box big enough that when you add the port you remain with the ported spec when you add it on later. I'll also add that I want to say the intentions of the Obsidian line were to take his home line and make it more car audio friendly. My opinion is he did an OK job and made something that doesn't break the bank, but it is still an entry level sub.

If it was mine, I'd keep it below the window line ... Try and keep it small and simple with like 4 12s with somewhere around a 40 htz tuning with adequate amp and electrical and you should be fine for a starter ground pounder system ... Subs back / ports back Like Drew said ... The equipment is going to make up just as much of the weight anyways ...

Thats not a 2004 trailblazer. It is a blazer what year I don't know.He doesn't own a trailblazer, he owns a blazer

Using such a FR for a mid allows you to use a tweet that doesn't dig. Should help your overall response as well. For what it is worth the Bamboo's are nice too.

We pay about 150 per month for all 4 of us and deductible is 1500 max annually. To have my kids it cost us about 900 bucks each out of pocket.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giN6m-sfzng&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Maybe he would like some bass! You never know.

well having such great friends wher I am at I get to see a lot a ssa cars every weekend. that said when I was getting ready for a show I broke a sub and one my ssa friends " ZACK "lent me two his spare zcons for the weekend I was one db louder then with the old stuff. so when I decided to build another car I went with zcons ....wait wife bought 2 zcons then said said lets go car shoping!~!!! she has spnt last year in advance 1 holding her own. so then I here the secrete is out "kirbys" have evils..... my boy Justin has EVILS.... well I decided to wall my cop car and well I'm hopeing for something truly EVIL . So here I am.

When you buy your daughter her first car and think about what to do stereo wise on the trip home.

Okay, finally got to install some of the Damp Pro I won in a contest. Gotta say the stuff is really quite nice. I only got to put some on the passenger door but it made for a nice A-B comparison with the untreated drivers door. Surprisingly there was a VERY noticeable difference in the sound between the drivers and passenger doors that I'll sum up as cleaner sounding bass and midrange and a feelable difference in the impact of the bass as well. The best part is I can expect even better results when I get the CCF and MLV installed!!! Here's the pics of the progress of the installation.

WOOOHOOOO!!! This build is finally starting to kick off!!! Did a lot of work this weekend pulling out all the rear trim panels from behind the front doors to the tailgate to install CLD and CCF behind it all. I also put some strips of CCF in spots where the plastic rubs and makes way too much noise. I also started on the doors, and will have pictures of them up soon, for now I got a few pics of the process in the back to put up. Again, due to the heat it's not a step by step photo shoot, but it should give an idea of the work involved. Here's a quick shot of the CLD and CCF. It's a roll of the old RaamMat BXT60 I've had for awhile and some of the RaamAudio peal and stick CCF. From behind the truck with everything tore out of the driver's side. And the process as I got pictures of it..... That's basically it until the process with the doors is complete. A note to anyone who's been thinking about installing sound deadening but haven't due to wondering whether or not it's worth it or not, don't short change yourselves. The difference it makes in the amount of road noise you hear, the squeaks and rattles from panels, and the overall sound of your music to your ears is well worth the time, effort and money it costs to do it. I took the Jimmy for a quick drive to test everything out, and with a couple of the worst gravel roads leading either direction away from my house I have a great test bed to find every little squeak, rattle and annoying noise a vehicle can possibly have. I heard pretty much nothing from the rear of the truck, at least not over the squeaks and rattles of the doors and dash. Even the noise of the gravel under the tires was lessened and with so much less noise the PG's have never sounded better or as loud. Now on to the doors and installation of the Bravox CS60K's!!!!

From what I can tell, this guy has the DartZeel Pre and power amps ($20,000 each), Pass Labs X1 or x0.5 preamp (about $15,000), 4 of the compression drivers on the sub-horn (I've seen similsr drivers at $8-10,000 each), Some crazy ass tube amps for the upper midrange (If I had to guess..... $40,000 each), a Zanden CD transport and DAC (that's another $40,000), and more crazy ass tube amps for the lower midrange (let's say $20,000), a PS Audio conditioner ($5,000 or so), it looks like an SME 30/10 turntable ($40,000 with a no doubt expensive cartridge), and maybe another $10,000+ in wires. That's close to $300,000 in stuff. Then have the horns custom molded for his yard, and the high/midrange horns at another $100,000+ easily...... yeah. That's a crap load of cash for 5-way horn speakers. At least he likes music!!

can you tell me what a dual 2 resistance is. what it actually meters out to

wow thats really low. he needs to be closer to 2 for sure, hes doing 9 of them so after all said and done he needs to be close to a half ohm at the end..... and that just wont cut it. 1.3 1.4

ok heres the deal, i have a friend that competes in streetspl,. he started the season off with 4 SA 12s on 2 M3as and was doing great, then he stepped up to 4 soundlab 18's on 4 M3as and was whopping ass. the new season starts in january and hes looking to rebuild, he asked me to find him 9 SA 12s but im thinking to suade him into 9 Gcons, the thing is, he knows the SA12's he ran them before, and i have too, great subs, but the Gcon is new, but it priced around the same, and its a comparable woofer on paper, im looking for someone that has used both woofers, i dont want to talk this guy into getting something he may not be happy with then look at me like im an asshole., thanks guys.