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I agree; thats precisely why I want to know this sub limits. You're asking a loaded question though. Whether or not the sub can take 20hz at full power depends completely and totally on the enclosure design. Every driver has a rated xmax and aside from testing the only way to see that you don't exceed it at a given frequency is to model it. Keep in mind that EVERY change you make to an enclosure alignment compromises something else it does. Making an enclosure that allows full power handling at 20hz would likely kill it's response on the upper bass frequencies, or kill power handling at those frequencies, or simply hinder the output capabilities. The next question is why the hell are you worried about what it can do at 20hz? Unless you're using it for home theater you'll never REALLY have a need to play it that low in the first place. Music, even edited music, just doesn't go that low. On top of that you're modeling the enclosure as being tuned at 35hz per your original post. No matter what sub you choose it's going to unload below that and get destroyed in a big hurry. The reason I am asking is directly related to the fact that I will be tuning the enclosure at 35hz, so at 20hz it will be practically free air however I wont have a subsonic filter to avoid damage on low frequencies so if a certain song happens to have a 20hz tone at some point I dont want to worry about any damage to the speaker. The sub will have 1000w rms; and Ive had other subs in the past that handled more than 1000w rms on free air without bottoming out. I just want to see if someone has pushed this sub to those limits. I have to call complete and total BS on that one. First of all you don't have any idea how much power you were really applying to those drivers, you didn't measure it. Even if you did the results would be dubious at best. Second, even if the sub were to take the power without bottoming out I guarantee you're stressing the spiders and surround so badly that it won't last long doing that to it. If you don't have a sub sonic filter on the amp then buy one, at least something like a Harrison Labs FMOD. You should not run a ported enclosure without an SSF no matter what driver you're using. Doing so is plain and simply asking for it to get damaged.

I agree; thats precisely why I want to know this sub limits. You're asking a loaded question though. Whether or not the sub can take 20hz at full power depends completely and totally on the enclosure design. Every driver has a rated xmax and aside from testing the only way to see that you don't exceed it at a given frequency is to model it. Keep in mind that EVERY change you make to an enclosure alignment compromises something else it does. Making an enclosure that allows full power handling at 20hz would likely kill it's response on the upper bass frequencies, or kill power handling at those frequencies, or simply hinder the output capabilities. The next question is why the hell are you worried about what it can do at 20hz? Unless you're using it for home theater you'll never REALLY have a need to play it that low in the first place. Music, even edited music, just doesn't go that low. On top of that you're modeling the enclosure as being tuned at 35hz per your original post. No matter what sub you choose it's going to unload below that and get destroyed in a big hurry.

All info on the 12 inch Ethos will be located here. Still working on large signal parameters. For now here are the physical dimensions of the driver.

Exactly as stated in my analogy. More money for less result. So WHY is that a good thing?

Push any sub beyond it's limits and you will cause damage.

Had that happen to me last year. At 300 feet and fried electrical. It got hit by lightning, so I figured Nationwide would be on my side. Nope. $3600 to have it done (opted for the best pump available and the best wire) and they shit on me. Fuck Nationwide. I dropped those cunts.So you are saying nationwide is not on your side? No. I assure you, they are not. Yes, they are. They just never specified WHICH side of you they're on. USAA insurance ftw. If you are or were a soldier I highly recommended them. Great fir banking too. One stop shop.

All black now.

Just a quick fun fact about the Cutlass. ... Factorty weight @ 3350lbs. Current weight @ 5300lbs. :-)

I give you positives because I like what what you say. Not because I disagree with your opinion. Some people take it personal and give negatives because they can!

Then do away with both. My problem is somebody can go back and give negatives on anything you said.

And completely unnecessary. Obviously minimizing the length of both power & ground saves you rish, money and perhaps diameter, but that is it.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/35027-noise-troubleshooting-guide/

I never said it solves everything I'm just saying could be a cheaper alternative to a second battery

a little build for a Dodge Dakota X Cab.... a pair of 15" Xcons and a Soundstream XXX 6500