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I started talking about doing this line back in November on Facebook then on CACO. I decided to take it all the way to the prototype phase -- this is what I came up with so far. We are talking $60-70 MAP on these from a dealer ----- Here are some initial photos of the FIRST rough prototypes. I am essentially testing for ruggedness and for the soft parts and coil being what I want first. The motor will likely increase in OD a bit if I can't get Qts down with other methods but I started small to ensure we aren't wasting any costs on making it too large off the bat. Had to get a feel for what % I would be off compared to FEA to go from there. If we go to production the frame itself will have the vents removed -- for the prototypes they are plugged. The finish of the motor will also be a bit nicer but not to the point to increase cost to the end-user. The look from the front is pretty well final. The motor is alot deeper than most in this class to support some legit levels of excursion as well. 10" Model : ----- 12" Model : ---------- And finally... the video I took this morning of the 10" prototype : The 12s were separated in transit but I should have them soon. This level of excursion is not something you will find on most drivers in this category. We are looking at ~1.6-1.75" peak to peak or so in the video at the highest level (1.25" p-p is linear). There is 2" p-p before coil bottom -- I haven't gotten brave enough yet to push it past where I did in the video as we were getting a bit of mechanical noise at that level. It's still a new prototype and I'm enjoying it a bit before possibly tearing it up =) I think we are REALLY close with this sample... Qts is a bit high for what I normally like to see but I want to do some real listening tests before making a call on that one way or the other.

no, not doing any 3d cad work. The FEA programs are transducer and magnetics analysis programs.

perfect. See i would have just done fiberglass thinking it was enough. Bracing it is. Your box turned out fantastic by the way. Thanks man! But yea I always thought fiberglassing like you said would be enough and I learned that it's not the best for bracing like for what you need.

Also I'm happy you chose the 12s instead of 15s. I feel the 12s will be louder than 2 15s crammed.

Email has been sent. Let me know what you think of it.

That is because you are picking pointless ratings for shopping. Ignore the impedance, power handling and sensitivity. In a tweeter you really shouldn't have to care about any of the above. The first question is always WHERE. Have to know those limitations first. Also helpful to know what you are blending them with, where they are mounted and what the limitations of the mid are (assuming you have them already). Considering you have the Morel's and don't like them, it would be good to know what settings you are using and such. And more detail on what they don't do. "High end extension" can mean greatly different things to many people and I would consider "sharpness" and absolute negative, but I bet in your description it is something else entirely.

I have a design and I like it! Post your email and I'll attach a 3d sketch up with a cut sheet.

With this dimensions posted before we are doing really good. 38.5" for width is no problem. I will do that for the width and use the height given and use what is needed for depth up until 28".

How much power again? And are they front firing into cabin or back at trunk? How far away will the port be from trunk if it's rear facing?

Ill design a box up and let you know what I get.

Email Fi, they may make recones for that motor.

Even Victoria wants to show her secret and do some ditch bangin.

More? Ok

This ditch needs a bangin.

I am trying to get the specs more in line for smaller boxes. I will have to verify with the updated specs on the Rev.2 samples to see how close we can get within this cost range.

Did some heavier abuse testing yesterday. Ended up breaking the solder joint from the tinsel lead wires to voice coil lead at the neck joint on one side -- but did not actually break the neck joint or thermal the coil. Had it up around 550-700 watts clamped at the point of my testing before that failure occurred. These samples have tied-on leads and actually the "floating" leads would have prevented this type of failure as it was a result of excessive forward stroke tugging the tied lead out of the hole it passed through -- and of course I was doing 550-700 free air on a 300-watt rated driver anyway so I can't say I am disappointing Either way I have some Rev.2 prototypes in the works to address the high Qts and a few other minor things I want to improve. I have been spending alot of time as well making sure I can still offer them for the $60-70 range or VERY close to it

Score from today: The quest is over!

Most audio equipment dies for one simple reason. Most people push their equipment beyond its limits. Whether it is the amplifier, subwoofer or full range speakers, clipping is the number one cause of failure. To prevent clipping, use this tutorial. To figure out what voltage you should set the gains to, multiply the RMS power of the amplifiers output by the impedance of the speaker, then find the square root of that number. If you are using an amplifier that has an RMS rating of more than your speaker(s) can handle/rated for, then use the RMS rating of the speaker (instead of the RMS of the amplifier) to determine the voltage to set your amp to. This is also referred to as gaining down. Gain Setting Equation Voltage of the output = sqrt(RMS Power X impedance of the speaker) Example Say the amp provides 100WRMS into a 4 ohm speaker: Voltage = sqrt(100W X 4 ohms) Voltage = sqrt(400W*ohms) Voltage = 20V Again, that was only an example, use the ratings of your amp to figure that out. Setting the Gain(s) To set the gain(s), you need two things: 1. A DMM (digital multi-meter) that is capable of measuring AC voltage (needs to be able to measure up to a range of 200V). 2. A test tone CD to use to set the gains at the correct setting. Now, to set the gain(s): 1. Start the vehicle, and pop the test tone CD in the head unit. 2. DO NOT hook up the sub(s) or speaker(s) to the amplifier while doing this, just leave the outputs unused at this time. 3. Now, time to set up the head unit. a. If the loudest you listen to your music at on a regular basis is 22/35 with bass @ +3 and treble @ 0 with MX (or any other sound processor) on, use those settings. NEVER turn the headunit above 3/4 of the maximum volume. b. Remember to have the car turned on. c. If you want to use bass boost on a sub amp, set it prior to setting the gains on the amp and use the center frequency of the bass boost (45 Hz for most amps) as your test tone. d. Please remember that if you have a subwoofer volume control on the headunit and/or a bass knob for the amplifier, set it to the maximum before you set the gains on the sub amp. 4. Take the leads from the DMM and but them on the outputs from the amp. 5. Set the gain so that the outputs of the amplifier equal the voltage you found above. This is a MUST. Here is JL Audio tutorial on their site: http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/Input_Sen...ensitivity.html Here is where you can download some test tones for system testing/gain setting: http://www.ronelmm.com/tones/ http://www.eminent-tech.com/music/multimediatest.html For test tones higher than 80Hz, download this program and you can create your own: Adobe Audition Trial Version It is best to use 50 Hz tone for a sub amp (unless you have bass boost, use the frequency that is boosted as the tone), and a 1kHz tone for a full-range amp. This is a good way to set the gains, but if you have access to an oscilloscope, by all means use it. Then you can set the gains to their absolute maximum as you can see when the amplifier clips. If you are wondering what exactly clipping is, and what it looks like, read this: http://www.bcae1.com/2ltlpwr.htm If you have any questions about this, post up, I

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