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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/30/2013 in all areas

  1. Objectivity is out the window with most car audio... People who don't understand what is actually going on perpetuate all this BS.
  2. This will be a good chance for you to use the skills you have learned here. Carefully measure the enclosure dimensions and model it with your driver. -Find out what the vent velocity will be. -Actually verify the tuning. You have no idea if it was even designed right in the first place... Here is your chance to do this right...
  3. Don't ever, ever design an enclosure to "handle" a certain amount of power, especially by making it smaller. You loose efficiency, increase compression and decrease bandwidth. It never makes anything louder, you may think so, people may swear to it, but they are wrong. Design the enclosure with your response goals in mind and your available space. The power is the last thing you figure out, because you may not actually know how much power you need to get full output from your alignment until your enclosure is complete. Additionally, except in DSS's case, RMS has nothing to do with power requirements. It is a thermal rating. IT HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH POWER REQUIREMENTS. IT IS A THERMAL RATING ONLY. It is only a thermal rating.
  4. Not even clicking the link because it doesn't matter what it says.....a clamp test is meaningless. The rest of it...meh. Just because you read it on the internet doesn't make it true. As 95Honda correctly stated, majority of the internet car audio crowd doesn't understand objectivity. They do one thing, assume it's a foolproof method of comparison when it was flawed from the start, and then the rest of the sheep hop on the bandwagon with them. Having access to equipment that produces numbers (clamp meters, SPL meters, etc) only makes things worse because the assumption is there that if they post numbers, those numbers must be valid. Which couldn't be more wrong.
  5. Assuming i go single 12 how well do the Upper line of SSA subs do for sound SQ like a Xcon or Zcon vs a lower line like the Icon or the other sub i looked at IA Flatlyne i kno the flat lyne is a diff sub because its under hung but is there a large noticeable difference in SQ I say SQ in the way of reproducing the sound of the original some people have diff Deffinitions of SQ im not to concerned with Transparency id like to know i have a sub I've had the gcon, Xcon and Zcon. They all sound amazing. It's hard to believe that such a loud sub can sound so good. Let me know if you choose the gcon or xcon. I have both for sale in 12" version.
  6. Both the zcon and xcon are great sounding woofers.
  7. Yea it's typical for a new person in car audio to learn that sealed boxes have a faster response and ported is boomer. But it's not true. If the box design is designed well the ported can have a fast response and sound just as good. I would do a single 12 ported no matter what sub you choose. Also you spend less money on subs and can put that budget towards a better amp.
  8. There is no correlation between ported and boominess unless you suck at box design. I also don't see how you are going to install those Focal's in an 850, not really the right space IMO. You may be much better off selling them since you bought them for a steal and buying something optimal for the car. Location is always the first thing to determine before shopping.
  9. The issue I see is the fact that they are expensive enough that not a lot of people are going to have them so any naysayers that actually have the 80.1 are going to make a bigger impact then a amp in which a lot of people have. I'm sure the amp is quality and its user error, but like I said even just one or two can get the bad rep going pretty strong with something like this.
  10. Never even hit the brakes<br />

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