Leaderboard

Then why motorcraft which is not owned by ford?I was thinking old school autolite is no longer ford owned.Because I know what works and what doesn't. Do it right the first time.

I figured I would start this log since I have been getting asked what I've been working on. This has been in the works for a few months and I'm still collecting equipment. All equipment under the window line and behind the b-pillar. No blow through. Amps and electrical in bed. Not to exceed the heighth of the bed and 36" back from the front of the bed. 92 Chevy S10 ext cab. 3 15" Ethos (stock built) 2 B2 Zero.7 amps 2 Mike Singer 350a alts A few super capacitor banks. No batteries. Questions, comments, rude remarks welcome. ## rebuild on page 52

No, I would have typed that if that's what I wanted to state.

Personally, I would not use anything other than Motorcraft parts.

Crossfit yo

Aha, I now understand why you are confused. Ignore the amp. It doesn't matter for this discussion on headunit pre voltage. Assuming it does its job it will only amplify the signal and the noise equally. This means of course that the SNR ratio on the lines going into the amp are what will make it different. ie, if you have a given RCA induced noise whether the headunit outputs 2v or 4v it will be the same ratio all the way until your knob exceeds the 2v the other headunit can output.

Just to clarify, higher preamp voltages do not "minimize" the source of noise. Higher preamp voltages increase the signal to noise ratio (SNR).....the level of the induced noise is the same, but the level of the signal is higher so the SNR is also higher. Saying the noise is minimized implies that the higher voltage has some inherent ability to "reject" some of the noise, reducing it's level....which it does not. The noise is the same, but the SNR has increased.M5's point was that in the cases where you have an audible amount of induced noise, the problem is the signal cables or routing near sources of noise in the vehicle (which does not include the amp's power cable), and increasing the voltage of the signal is masking the problem rather than fixing it.

Did you just answer your own question?

whhhooop happy birthday now bust a move !

So you screw up your install and then are worried about voltage on your headunit? Noise created exclusively because of your RCA cables should be addressed by replacing/updating cables.lol.. if you say so. RCA noise from a 4v preout will be less than that from a 2v preout when amplified to the same level, and that's a fact.You are really misinterpreting everything. If the noise is from a source up stream of the rca it will be equally amplified by the amplifier. If it is from the rca then you have an install problem. And again if you think about the dB difference and audible masking it is really rather pointless. Stop regurgitating junk someone who doesn't know what they are doing has told you and think about it for a minute. If you really think that when you have noise from RCA's the best thing to do is to change your headunit, well then you are confused. Solve the problem and stop the ineffective bandaid.

The problem is, most people have no idea how to properly use an scope. If they did, then you would be spot on...

The gain position is meaningless. It doesn't matter if it is all the way clockwise or counterclockwise... Have you designed/built your box yet? How do you know what size amp to get if you haven't?

so the coil was slamming the pole piece because of a flaw on the conea/coil connection?