Leaderboard

3% is absolutely unacceptable, I'm sure your ears can pick up the difference... I was unaware people did "clamp tests" to measure the possible measure of power that can audibly be heard as a difference compared to the rating on the box. IF that were true, then clamp tests would be the best method. That means as along as the 9,600w amp can do +/- 2,000w, then it's fine. That's your implication. Seems irrational to me.

Got the call from someone local to build a box for his setup. He has 2 SSA Evil 18's on 2 NS-1's at 0.5 ohms a piece, with 4 XS D3100's and a Mechman 270. His current box was initially built for 4 18's (something like 18 cubes net) and stuck WAY above the window line. He wanted a box for just the 2 that he has, a lot smaller box, and something with a little "flair". Well, here it is... Specs: 13.2 cubes net 12" Octaport 32.3 hz Double layered all around (except sides) Window style bracing Bolt terminals Bedlined outside with a fire-engine red port Be sure to watch the video at the end!

Next up, buss bars. I have some 1/2x2" flat stock coming. Should have in a few days. Then on to mounting them in the bed, run cables, and fab up a dual alt bracket under hood.

Tell him to back the gains down a little. we're having a little meet and greet on Saturday with a bunch of audio guys around Oklahoma, and we'll be setting his gains properly with an o-scope. Also, he has each sub wired to it's own amp, so to simplify the system, we'll be strapping his amps so he just has one gain knob to worry about, and the signals will be perfectly even.

Not from that craptastic picture

Complex enough?? Mind blown.

Poor cats.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/61312-taramps-customer-service-public-conversation/page-2 On page 2 it starts talking about it.

Any men left here... ??

it had a miss on 7 before the tune up... replaced the plugs and the coil, and # is still missing, ... brand new plug gapped correctly brand new coil. i dont care for the brand of plug but.. still the fact remains ... before and after still 7 is missing

ok.... the compression test confimed the bad news ... #6 had 182 LBs .. # had 85 lbs took the cylender to bottom... put compressed air in the cylender .. and he came out of the tail pipe... i need a head job.... hes going to do it.. but i have a question for you ryan .... are these head bolts studs or bolts? if they are studs then the motor has to come out.

well i planed to have them both pulled and rebuilt, ... a reman is 340 each side, .. i can have them re worked for about 220 for the set, so as of now i plan to have them reworked, .. and while im in there replacing the timing chain... im not going to be doing the work, im holding the dealer responcibale .. as i explained to him .. he told me he would call me once all the repairs were done and it was good to go.. he called me.. i trusted that the truck was fixed. i paid and signed based on that trust, and before i left the lot. i had him check it again because it was not correct... he offered me out of the deal. ,minus the cost of parts that i had him put on it.. or give him the chance to make it right... i want him to repair it. i think he only wants to rebuild the one side.. i want both heads done..... vato zone wanted 420 for a timing set.. WTF.. so im shopping for a cheaper one now.

shit man .. thats the thing about the skinnernet is conflicting info ... i guess i need to change the oil.. cause it had 0/30 in it.. then i added like a quart of lucas motor restore shit.. made my oil thick because i had chatter...

what set should i get? i know the 279 comes with a pump and gears... but its cheaper for just the chain and guides i would hate to install a shitty pump that will only fail. http://www.ebay.com/itm/360716072933?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/390624904980?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

well ford wanted WAAAYY Too much .. so i got this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/360716067815?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648 not sure what kind of tentioners they are.. maybe you could let me know

sweet come up brother !!

unplug your remote gain.... set your amp where you need it... then plug the remote in... the remote will then work like this.. max on the remote. means you max that you have already set on the amp.. no higher... and low on the remote gain will be just that.. low. the remote will not exceed the master gain on the amp.. only go up to it.

Yep already bought it. 2012 F250 Lariat 6.7 diesel. Thing is so nice and stout. It looks just like the one pictured without the wheels and lift. I will get some pics tomorrow. so im guessing you never gave funds for the G?

SSD to me

me first me first

3% is absolutely unacceptable, I'm sure your ears can pick up the difference...

3% is absolutely unacceptable, I'm sure your ears can pick up the difference... I was unaware people did "clamp tests" to measure the possible measure of power that can audibly be heard as a difference compared to the rating on the box. IF that were true, then clamp tests would be the best method. That means as along as the 9,600w amp can do +/- 2,000w, then it's fine. That's your implication. Seems irrational to me. I was being sarcastic more than anything else. The 3% that his test was off from the manufacturer's test seems very acceptable to me. 3% is 300 watts which isn't very likely to make much of a difference even on a termlab. I also understand the concern that you guys have, but there's really no application of a 12v amplifier that requires the precision of the power output number to be higher than this.