Leaderboard

Of course it's going to be power hungry, it's a 10kw amp and you have to supply the power to output the power. Even if we're generous and say it's 85% efficient at 1 ohm and can really and truly output 10kw it's still going to require about a thousand amps of current to make that power output, lol. Price on it seems fair, other than that I have no experience with it either. For that matter I've barely got any experience with anything large than the 2K's I own/have owned.

^what he said!!

Meh

Finished it up today! Will probably put another coat of bedliner on it tomorrow to get a cleaner look. I went with a 4.5" computer fan with integrated led's to cool the radio (theres a small space open at the back of the case to allow air flow out). I think it came out awesome!

Should look good! I wanna see more pics of everything like the car and amps.

since I was switching around some amps- I figured why not pull out the 1100.4 and take some pics of the Family.lol Sorry they came out a touch hazy...cell phone pics FTL. Notice- I bought the truck to match my amps....sad I know...

I like how the logo is machined in the heat sink...looks cool. It is a good last name.lol

check Into crescendo pwx for your front.. I think im going with those.. ive never used them but frogcase2002s sound pretty damn good mixed with some aq tweets. That is a horrible suggestion. Just fucking horrible, lol

enclosure for (4)15's 3 cubic feet per sub tuned to 32 hertz external dimensions: 46" wide x 40" deep x 19" tall

Looking good! Those look like the same Bessey corner clamps that I have. When bar clamping on a raw edge I prefer to not clamp directly on the edge. MDF doesnt have a lot of strength in that area. Instead I have some small blocks I cut up from scrap to put on the edge and clamp to that. It helps to distribute the force a little better and not blow out the side. Of course I do tighten the crap out of them too. Also when I design my build I try to lay the panel edge to the outside and intentionally overcut about a 1/16" or so. Then use a flush trim bit to uh make it flush lol. Just a couple small suggestions, take it fwiw.

Well, another quick update I just gotta share. I got a chance to play with the tuning on the unit some more today. I went in and played with the EQ for a bit, fine tuning it to trying to get things perfect. The only issue I had on some songs was that they sounded a little flat in the upper midrange, lower treble areas. I could get it close but never quite got rid of it without bringing that bad harshness back so I had an idea to play with the phasing on the components again like I did with the Kenwood. Having the time alignment on the Clarion seemed to change the interaction between the speakers. If I turned off the time alignment it went back to sounding like it did with the Kenwood, light and airy but low on height and narrower. So I decided to start from scratch and went and put all the speakers back in phase with each other and voila, perfect. The flat sound was gone and the light airy sound was back but with the stage and image back up on top of the dash and nice and wide open when I put the time alignment back where I had it. From there I made some more adjustments to the Q of a couple of bands and played with the gains/cuts for a bit until things were just right and the original harshness I had experienced was gone. I never imagined I could get these results with such a modest lineup of equipment and little money spent. The components are doing such a good job with the midbass it's just completely thrilling to play the songs that really lend themselves to it. Everything else is just as improved though and while listening to "Alabama Shakes - Hold On", "The Black Keys - Gold on the Ceiling", "Rhianna - Stay", and "Billy Joel - Piano Man" I got the attention of some teenagers out playing some basketball next to my buddies house. They were amazed that all I had playing was the components and that it sounded so good and clear. I really got them smiling when I had them take turns sitting in the drivers seat while we played a host of other songs including several tracks on a couple of Trans-Siberian Orchestra CD's. They left seemingly impressed and talking about what they were gonna do to their own cars. One in particular is gonna come by this weekend to have me look at what he's got and give some recommendations.

The BTL line is our flagship woofer. Its whole design is based on and focused on being able to throw tons of power to something in a Bass Race or �Street Jam� situation. Options Available are as follows: P Chamfer: This is a chamfer on the end of the pole, it helps to bring the air down around inside of the motor and helps cool the coil better. It also helps relieve the pressure underneath the dustcap. We recommend at the bare minimum to get this option if you choose this series of woofers. Cooling: Self explanatory, the cooling channels are machined into the inside of the sub to help cool the coil FAR better. But there are some things that you sacrifice. There is less metal inside of the motor so it is a little weaker. If you are looking for a fart/burp only scenario for SPL we suggest that you do NOT get this option. Stick with only the P chamfer. Now if you are looking for a daily sub to beat on and you have 2000+ watts the BTL series is for you. Flatwind: The flatwire coil option is standard in the BTL. HiXmCoil: This coil is simply much longer than the normal dual 1ohm or dual 2ohm flatwire coils and allows for more xmax. If you are using this in a daily scenario we suggest that you choose this option, especially in the 15 and 18 inch models. Inner Heat Sink: Its a machined aluminum ring in the gap that lowers the voicecoils inductance (allowing it to play up higher and have a little better overall transient response). It also reduces the volume inside the magnet gap of the motor increasing air speed with the cooling as well as allowing the coil to kick off heat to a more receptive thermal mass rather than magnets. Daily or SPL: Simply put, if you plan on listening to any type of music you MUST choose the daily option. If it is strictly for a fart/burp scenario then choose the SPL option. The reason we have these options is the gap tolerances between the two are different. The gap in the SPL woofer is much tighter and FAR less forgiving in comparison to the Daily option. The Daily option simply gives the coil more wiggle room inside of the gap to deal with the non-linearity tendancys that you can get into when you are using a sub in a daily driving scenario. Typically SPL applications deal with 1 note and it does not change, therefore we can make the gap much tighter and get all of the motor strength that we can out of it. Universal: This option gives you the choice to later chance the impedence of your voice coils. You can change from dual 2�s to dual 1�s and vice versa by reconing them. If you do not choose this option your motor(s) will be optimized per the coil resistance that you have chosen. (Dual 2�s will forever be a dual 2 motor, Dual 1 will forever be a Dual 1 motor). Enclosures: BTL 12 � Ported box we recommend using 1.75-2.5 cubic feet @ 30-35Hz (I personally think that a 32hz tuning is optimal, and has the most output and is still the most musical daily driving). Use 12-16 square inches of vent area per cubic foot of volume. BTL 15 � Ported box we recommend using 3-5 cubic feet @ 30-35Hz. Again use 12-16 square inches of vent area per cubic foot of volume. BTL 18 � Ported box we recommend using 5-8 cubic feet @ 30-35Hz tuning, you can tune a little higher if you wish but we recommend keeping it close to 32hz for a daily driver. Again the same 12-16 square inches of area applies per cubic foot of volume. Pictures and cut sheets for some enclosures coming soon.

any of these events ever come through southern ohio? see some up Columbus and shit. say I wanted to enter one. how would I go about doing it? say like 1 12 on 3.5k

you guys should have a build off.. let the forum vote for the winner, and the winner gets a couple weeks off.

Two 4ohm DVC subs have to be wired TOGETHER in parallel and then to the amp in parallel to get a 1ohm load out of each sub. Unless your bridging which you wouldn't be with that Hifonics amp, because it is bridged internally.

http://youtu.be/MnRUtQgPy2c i no its old but it never gets old watching it.. inb4 jay-cee says meh