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It makes no sense what so ever to run 6ga wire to a sub that sees 2k watts. Especially considering you need to buy double the length to run for + and -. I just dont understand how that could remotely be a good recommendation.

Gains are there for that purpose. You could connect a 1,000,000 watt amp up to a 100 watt speaker and as long as you set the gains correctly it wouldn't blow it. Your HU, even if it CAN output a full 4V through the pre-outs, wouldn't output that much voltage unless the volume was turned all the way up. It doesn't output 4V all the time. That's why it's suggested to set gains with the volume at about 3/4 of the way up. That way you can always turn it down for music that has a higher than normal recording level and turn it up a little more for the music that has a below average recording level. The one thing you've not mentioned that I would love to hear about is what you think of the DCON's.

Went thru many amplifier changes before the build was even complete.Went from a Atomic 5k to a DD M4 to a Tara HD8000. Used my burp box in another vehicle and built a street box for the Etho 15s. Have had minimal playtime with them but the initial results were good. Tight accurate response. Did have a small hiccup that has had a band-aid put on just to get some testing in and show them off at a little local show tomorrow. So far ive done a 148 flat with them sealed on the dash from 44-47hz which is close to my vehicles peak. Have not done any meca style metering yet but in the past thats where it has typically shined. Going to play around with some more enclosures once i glue some recones in.

I would 10-12 gauge and be done worrying about it.

very pointless especially for daily, but it will do if you wanna be cool. As short as subwoofer runs are the bigger wire wont make a difference.

I think that is way over kill and a waste of money. That's my opinion.

Thanks man. A wreck on the highway this morning added an extra 30 minutes to my drive. An hour and a half without going into protect. Still nice and hot, but I'm pretty sure pushing that 600 watts out of the bridged channel has a lot to do with it. It's never going to see more than 100-150 per channel once it gets devoted to the front stage. I did add about an inch of lift off the floor yesterday. That should help some. Like I said, it made it an hour and a half this morning so hopefully I have a pretty decent balance on it for now. I was actually thinking about that yesterday. Is it safe to use a pc fan it? I can get all those I want from the IT dept at work from old computers.I'm actually thinking at this point maybe I should quit waiting for the Ethos to install a sub amp and go ahead with a temp install to the DCONs while I'm waiting. I'm pretty set on a Soundqubed 2200 for the amp. I know I could run the DCONs at 4 ohms and get 500 to them. OR....since it has an input sensitivity range up to 8 volts would it be safe to wire down to 1 ohm and run with the gains low? I have 4 volt preouts. Is there enough difference between 4 and 8 volts to keep the power down to 7-800 watts? Sure anything to move air across the amp.

Run the saz1500 for sub duty, the bc2k's one per side to the sls's and bridge the ia 6.4 to the fountek's...

I don't get it. This is an audio forum. What is the purpose of a section for vids for someone who already has their own channel on youtube? I just don't understand.

*sigh* Last week I sold the backhoe and that was Cummins Turbo I'd LOVE a Ram with Cummins.... This thing does 10.26: Pffft, Top Fuel dragster 426 Hemi designed to run on diesel:

They are SCREAMING for MLV as well. Complete coverage with that, just a bit of CLD on the large expanses. Rap with your knuckles and keep attacking the most resonant spots.

Apply CLD to the areas of the inner door that vibrate and resonate. We can't tell you where that is over the Internet. If that plastic inner door is removable then I'd remove it and also apply to the outter door skin as well.