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So I'm week 3 of intense work outs. Food is becoming an issue. So hungry. Not getting enough protein. Need to plan meals again.

Every other thread seems to be a DSS for sale thread.

Advil and sailor jerry are going to help me relax tonight.

Depends on which 3.1 is in it. Most of them are really fairly simple. I can't remember the VIN code on the motor that is a PITA (there are 3 3.1 VIN codes, one is a CA, another Fed, and a 3rd that uses a different front mount). If the front motor mount bracket is part of the cover it is a real fucking hassle, but other than a snug fit there isn't a huge amount of difference. Some of the older ones had an annoying horseshoe mount bracket that block the cover and it can be a bit of a bitch to get the bolts out of the side of the block, but I assume yours is newer than that... I am thinking that bracket was superseded around 95. In any case, I have seen that more than once. Sometimes the bolts that run into the water jacket get covered in a sludge that makes them had to get out. Even of they come out OK, I suggest taking a larger flat screw driver and reaming out the holes, as it will make it easier to get everything back together and aligned correctly. If the car has some miles on it, I might think about getting the speedy sleeve timing cover kit from Fel-Pro. It will have a sleeve that you press onto the balancer surface that rides on the front crank seal. You will need a balancer puller set, but I assume you have one. This balancer is pressed on and will not come off without one. When you go back together you will want a good sealer for the front rail on the oil pan. It is IMPERATIVE that this seal be effective, as you must remove the engine to do a pan gasket on this engine. There are main bearing cap bolts that go through the sides of the oil pan and into the block. You cannot remove the ones that are sandwiched between the tranny and engine without separating the 2. Cut the old gasket out, flush with the front of the block. Use a brand new razor, and do not disturb the seal between the pan and the block right behind the front cover lands. I like to use "Right Stuff" sealer you get from NAPA. You must ensure that the pan and cover mating surfaces are clean and dry... no oil, no water, no coolant... Use as much brake cleaner as possible and make sure it dries to a dull finish. Lay a decent bead on the surface of the pan, and also lay a decent bead on the front cover where it rests on the pan. Do your best to bring the cover in as far as possible and press down into the surface of the oil pan, so as not to push the silicone out. If you have over 150K I might consider a new timing chain. Oh yeah, be sure you unplug the cam sensor on the top of the cover before you pull it. Don't want to fuck that up either . I would set aside about 6-8 hours, if you are proficient. While not a hard job, it can be time consuming.

real men, real sport, and yes the guy who doesn't watch TV is watching hockey atm

Agreed, but I want Oysters and Beer, and I want it to be a late summer evening on the water in Annapolis at sunset with a lady friend.fuck I am down if she bails

By the hands of an unknown lord I am the highest threat to the future of mortality This is pure fucking hatred

Fucking hockey, eh?

Finally a buzz saw flavor that does not taste like shit! Fruit punch is where it is at!

lol. I'd assume there to be about 1300 pages worth of threads and hundreds worth of facebook post as to why. I'd avoid asking that question all together really. Just get the recone, and you'll be set ok. Long story short, to answer your question directly, from the buildhouse, it's because of cheap korean amplifiers. Please, let's just leave it at that.

My Sp4s have been taking ~4k for over a year without a single issue. Its not the woofer...You can't rule out that his sub might have had some kind of defect just because you had been running your sp4's for a year.