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You definitely don't need 3 outputs...in particular for the goal at hand. Just ignore the rear speakers they are a waste of money. Absolutely NO USE even in a suburban. The bummer though is that there aren't really any good 2 output head units so you'll get three to use 2. Having a dedicated sub and front output is nice. If you find that in a 2 you are fine.

Thanks for all the replies, I've searched a little more and found Audiophile Engineers in Tampa. They really seem to know what they're doing and know Robin Butler who was recommended here (again, thanks!). I'm going to their shop next week and pick their brain. I know (is it Mark?) is super busy and that's the holdup on the DCON 10"s, I might just wait a few weeks and see if they're back up to production and have AE build a good box. I've spent a little time on the 12volt and bcae1.com to learn a little more, I might just get "The Loudspeaker Cookbook" this summer. As far as max dimensions the biggest constraint is height, no more than 14" tall which makes a 12" driver a tad more challenging.

Very cool!

You don't NEED the 3 outputs, but it can simplify things and make it easier to control. Without knowing the application specifics, it. will be hard to explain further.

You could get an eq like the eqs746 and would only need one output on the head unit to go into the eq. then it has front real and sub output . . If I was you I would just do a little research and do the labor your self. Most shit with car audio is not to hard forreal. . . Where are you located?

Awesome!!

No, actually the enclosure is definitely far more important than the driver being used. It's possible for a great driver in a piss poor designed/built enclosure to be out performed by a sub-par driver in an excellently designed and constructed enclosure. Even though it's a generic sub it could still perform better in a ported enclosure. Being what it is there's probably not any T/S parameters available for it to model and find out. For a better understanding of what the specs mean and what to look for when choosing a driver for a particular application I highly suggest buying and reading "The Loudspeaker Cookbook" by Vance Dickason. For what it's worth I wish you could've gotten the DCON's. They're some of my favorite subs, I even have a pair them waiting for my slow ass to get the enclosure built so I can get them installed.

what are your max dimensions? do you always ride your jeep that way? I would suggest a Gcon in sealed box but also don't know your music preference or your budget for new sub/s

Somone is selling a dcon 12 for a good price on caraudio.com.. really good condition

you are a tad confused. the Alpine SPR-60C's that you are wanting have these specs: RMS: 220 watts per set / 110 watts each side...that is taken from the link you put up. Those specs mean that your front left and front right speakers will want 110 watts EACH for ideal operation. The amp I mentioned (the one I have and like) just above ^ has these RMS stats: 4 ohms: 125 watts x 4-Chan. • 2 ohms: 250 watts x 4-Chan. This means that at 4ohms that amp will provide +/- 25 watts more than those speakers are wanting for their rated RMS wattage. Or at 2ohms...you have over twice the power you would need to run these specific type R's. what all this means is...that amp and those speakers will pair up just great. As for sound deadening or speaker baffles...just buy your electronics get them running. If you don't like to read...get local help ESPECIALLY with amp settings and go from there.

This is the exact 4ch amp I used for a long time and still actually have. It will solve your concerns about the RMS ratings to power your choice of components, if it's still in your budget. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1000.4.html If a set of components says it runs 110 watts MAX that means you can expect no more than half of that wattage during normal and constant use. RMS ratings are there to show how many watts amps/speakers will actually be running/using. It's the same with amp ratings. If an amp says it runs 5 million watts "MAX", it really will only be running 2 and 1/2 million watts or less the majority of the time. Cheap amps and speakers list there "MAX" ratings to make the amp or speaker seem powerful to users who don't understand RMS ratings. -it's good to have extra power, you don't have to use it all...it will not damage your speakers if you dial the amp down to the wattage the speaker needs which will actually provide a cleaner signal. You have much learning ahead of you! Most of it should be through reading.