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Box update

Tomorrow if I have time the hole will be cut for the sub. I am not carpeting this at this point, but that may change. Depends on the customer.

I use a brad nail gun, 18gauge or 16gauge will do the trick. Something to keep the wood together while the glue dries.

Sweet!

Looks good neal, do you have an air compressor out there? The best thing I did was invest in a nail gun when building boxes. It saves so much time and money.

derp me. thanks yea lol.... i should have checked it further but just wanted to ask just in case. im too cautious sometimes. i didnt see any screws so i thought it was just one piece. but i gently tried to unscrew the back part of the tweeter and sure enough it was inside a case. and i think it really is a new tweeter! so happy i finally got it in. ive been listening to music with no tweeter on right side. not sure if its the new tweeter or just cause ive been used to not having a tweeter. but holy shit am i extremely glad i got the tweeter back. honestly feels like a whole new system after spending around 9 days without the tweeter! since last tuesday morning, till late today, thursday of the next week. at first when i took out the tweeter i knew it sounded different but i didnt realize how much different it sounded until i reinstalled the tweeter. honestly makes a HUGE difference. a good one :] so tomorrow i shall check some things like swapping the polarity. checking out time alignment again. honestly time alignment is very difficult for me to notice and change around... but i feel like it could have a great benefit. and ill look around for some what to get just a bit of CCF like was suggested. i want something cheap but im sure quality and price are related even with CCF. and i think ill need some velcro to attach it thanks again to all who have helped me !

Thank you. I would build for anyone that buys an SSA sub or sub from the SSA store locally. If you lived closer I would fix you up.

Will this be an option for SSA members or just people local to you? Nice looking enclosure so far.

Very nice & clean! Watch that mdf dust bro, that stuff will mess your lungs up!

First box build under way. 12" ICON 1.9 cubs at 32hz. MDF dust is the worst! All cutting is done outside!

Yes the the tweeter seems to be the same, the new one is encased in a plastic mounting cup. To fit in the install location it seems as they took off the plastic cup to make it fit. Only way to really tell if they are the same is to take the back off and compare.

The PRS will do sub, bandpass and high pass. Has 16 independent L AND R eq. Unless you have exotic drivers with strange anomalies or cross points (yours don't btw) it will be a ton of processing already. I would never recommend ever buying a processor with more capability unless it is capability that you know you need. Otherwise you will just confuse yourself and lengthen the learning curve instead of shortening it. More simply, with the drivers you have I couldn't even rationalize more processing than the prs unit.* *doesn't mean I wouldn't do it, but that is also different since I could care less about the non-RCA sources on the "headunit" anyways.

Wait. I just re-read and noticed the Mac. What is the Apple for??

Don't. Spend less and learn it will NOT help you do anything to buy that. Seriously a $5 usb Mic can a do everything you highlighted and until you realise what it doesn't spending more is stupid. I made measurements today with 120 measurement mics and enlightened a ton of people. Sure it was a few hundred thousand dollars worth of year but it was chosen for a particular purpose. Yours is child's play and a real Mic will be a waste of cash until you learn how to use it.

Don't waste your money. Start with a usb Mic or your laptop and then when you don't understand the data ask. After you then find the weakness of the so cheapo Mic you can shop for a better one. The one you linked is garbage for the money.

The only audio card I can recommend for this sort of measurement is a DAL card. Last I checked they required a desktop and were $300. That being said, the whole goal isn't a good one. Really the only use for a mic in car audio is to find acoustic aberrations that you want to eq out with either physical changes or of course electronic filters. Trying to achieve a target frequency response is not something that is trivial, nor logical. If you are unsure the difference between octave analysis, 1/3 octave, and narrow band and the anomalies you will find in amplitude you are in over your head trying to use an "RTA". Even in just narrow band FFT analysis window block length has a huge influence. In general your ear hears in 1/3 octaves, but they are TERRIBLE for tuning. Remember the goal of filtering and eq is to remove crap. Fixing the response should be done with speaker choice, installation, mounting and so on.

The article isn't worth reading, but that has something similar with your post. Those may be "genres" but they aren't of music. Really odd you joined to bump a 3 year old crap post.

why do you care, it is fucking retarded.

Deadening the enclosure walls will help SPL by cutting down on the cancellation caused by cabinet emanations. How much? It depends on how the enclosure is designed. But, along with what others have said, you can reap better returns in overall performance by deadening the car. For what it is worth, I deaden all my enclosures. I also have used constrained layer materials (similar to what you are mentioning). I used to build smaller full range speaker cabinets (almost 20 years ago) with a product called Dynaboard. It was a layer of Dynamat sandwiched between two 3/8"-1/2" sheets of MDF. It was extremely dead and made fantastic cabinet walls. It was just very expensive and I figured out how to get similar performance by proper bracing and dampening. What a lot of people don't understand about bracing and cabinet construction is that bracing doesn't remove any resonant energy, it just moves the energy into a higher frequency range. When the range is high enough the enclosure walls can dampen out the energy, it does this really well with added dampening material...

Then my question has exactly as much pertinence as yours.

What is the best flavor of soda?

Thanks, I will. Still looking for suggestions. Suggestions to fix what?On what I should use with what. Should I get an amp that does more power for the mids? Which LOC's should I be using? I explaind all of this in the first post. Please re-read it. "No" is not helpful at all. And now you understand why I answered no. You have given us NOTHING to go on. If you think your system is perfect DO NOT change it at all. If it isn't perfect then we can't help unless you can describe what you want to fix.I guess you can't read. Take a look at the first post again. ROFL, can you read your first paragraph err random pattern of unrelated sentences?

Thanks, I will. Still looking for suggestions. Suggestions to fix what?On what I should use with what. Should I get an amp that does more power for the mids? Which LOC's should I be using? I explaind all of this in the first post. Please re-read it. "No" is not helpful at all. And now you understand why I answered no. You have given us NOTHING to go on. If you think your system is perfect DO NOT change it at all. If it isn't perfect then we can't help unless you can describe what you want to fix.

Thanks, I will. Still looking for suggestions. Suggestions to fix what?

I already have a completely working system though...fuck 2 ways Running a DDC with that Vifa is not a working system, sure it plays music but that is about it.

No

Not really exactly why I didn't

Easy to draw by hand, would take only a few minutes in Excel, and of course it is already built in to WinISD (as long as you pick a driver that is flat where you put the filter.

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