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The only clarification I'd add Shannon is that those are ideas are not exclusive so using the word "follow" I don't agree with...but I know you don't either and just typed it that way. It is a MUST to have a reasonable enclosure design no matter the cone area.

There is a possibility of a mis-click. I do it often.

Some amps on proper electrical can handle low impedence loads better then others. I would feel much safer wiring a mmats or DD amp at .5ohm, then I would say a hifonics or Audiopipe. My nephew wired his 3200 watt Collossus to .5ohm and it lasted a little over a week. Luckily sonic electronics took it back and sent him a brand new unit no questions asked. Now he has a sundown saz2500 wired to .5ohm on the same subs, same everything and it's been going strong for over a year and a half. It does get hot but nothing like the Collossus, you could have fried eggs on it.

Ran at .25 nominal, daily in the blazer for about 4 months. Got those two boards hot as fuck. Also, and bare with me. The drivers control was shitty. Im no guru, but, I guess dampening factor flies out of the window wired full retard. I just didnt like the way the drivers behaved. I did nuke both boards in that time. And i hated the way the drivers moved when i leaned on it hard. Ill never do that again, for competing or not. Certainly not for daily. Had those repaired, and added 2 more, and ran all of them at .7 nominal, daily. Never had a issue there, and control was MUCH MUCH gooder. Currently run .5 nominal, daily in the burb now. 4 of the 6 in the burb, are from the blazer build. Still chugging. Have been for a good amount of time. Boards get hardly warm at all. We do NOT know our rise, or any of that. But, im confident they are fine, control is great, playing 20hz for over 30s full, and have not ran into any soft part issues. Thermally, we arent even worried. Where i think we are making OK power, thermal we dont even worry. Drivers hardly get warm even after long abusive play. i would expect some issues to arise though, when we add power. We may have to shrink the sealed side. We will see. Its one of those things. You want to make power, but keep shit working, and be reliable. Those that wire in the dirt for burps, usually know exactly where they are rising to, and burp at tune, which is where your driver should move least. So, mechanical should hold OK, you know, unless your throwing ungodly amounts at the driver, which a lot do. And its only for 3 seconds. I see many many in the lanes,now a days, that have a switch, or physically wire up and down for when they burp, then demo/play music.

One hell of a trip. Was fun. Weather was shit, but, was a blast, full of great people.

People also generally just do not understand that matching RMS ratings, wiring below the rated impedance of the amp, or replacing their 2000 watt amp with a 3000 watt is simply not really gaining them much, if anything at all. And yes I used to believe it too. Doubling power only gains a theoretical 3db of output, barely any real audible difference. Often times the gain is not even close to that much. Using more power to try to make gains in output is the most expensive and least efficient way to do so. Generally when it comes to output cone area is king followed by proper and/or efficient enclosure design and construction. I know you weren't asking about it in this particular aspect but I still felt it was worth mentioning.

Well I was in a hurry and didn't see anything that covered what I was asking so I just quickly picked one under off topic. I got a response didn't I? Remember I from the old school of, fuck it close enough, shit ain't that serious. Don't sweat the small shit man, you will live longer.

Perfect implementations?..never. Exactly why it is idiotic to play the impedance curve game and wire low. (I realize you didn't do this on purpose.) Competition wise it isn't as nasty since the situation is normally reduced to a frequency with it's associated impedance allowing some optimization of the current & voltage to fit within the amps capability. This does assume the operator is competent.

I knew it, shit!

Ow ok. Yea man if you care about your stuff, I would wire to high, then to low. You can't hurt a thing going higher, but your asking a lot of your amp going lower. Your amp will be safe, and you get the added sound quility to boot, all your giving up is a tiny bit of wattage which you probably want hear a difference anyways.

This is sound advise (pun intended). Think of impedence like a pipe, and a amp trying to feed water, (rms) to this pipe, and current as water pressure. As you play music this pipe is getting bigger and smaller all the while your amp is trying to supply enough water to keep it full, so even if you slow the rate of flow it's gonna have a hard time keeping the pipe full (current). I have seen it done but sometimes it causes heat and failure.

4x the current at the same voltage. Hope your amp has both a current limit shut down as well as thermal. Or more logically rewire that shit pronto

Blind test. Amplifier A vs amplifier B.

Yes I'm looking at the Quattro 4 channel, it's a H class amp. And M5 I have ran plenty of AB style amps, my Phoenix gold M100, and M50, where AB style amps, and yes they sounded great. And I want to try something a little different, never had a H class amp, that I know of. See there you go, assuming you know something about me you obviously don't.

Well it was a entire B2 system in a Lexus. The highs, mids, where crisp, accurate, and loud as hell, but didn't fatigue your ears, The noise floor was nearly inaudible. The bass was extremely loud, and very accurate for 15 inch subs. They where hitting just as hard as my subs, but sounded so much better, and played a wider frequency then mine, but that could just be the box, but I don't think so, and they blended very nice with the mids. The amps looked really well built, had nice connections, and just looked very solid, compared to some of the Korean stuff. They looked nice with the plexi glass tops showing there guts. Now I'm no expert, but I know enough to be able to tell a cheap amp, from a decent amp. And I'm not saying, ow there the greatest, or anything like that, just figured I would give one a try, since I was looking to upgrade my 4 channel anyways. I already know I will hear a difference just from the fact I'm going from 45 watts a channel, to over a 100watts. I need to build a amp rack, and mount them properly, but it's hard to get time to do anything but work. I'm actually more interested in the amps power, and reliability, more then anything. I know I would never be able to tell one amp for another, if everything was the same but there not, I'm more then doubling my power which will lead to less distortion, and hopefully better overall sound. I was more speaking of the entire B2 system, then any one component.

Reading comprehension fail....again

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