Leaderboard

20180227_181447.mp4 22 hz

I would never use stacked crossovers. Every crossover has a phase and magnitude response. When you use both the signals sum. Summing two signals that are altered of course will increase the constructive and desconstructive interference. It can be really damaging to the response. It has the same effect of playing multiple drivers on the same frequencies. For clarity and quality this should be avoided as much as possible. This is exacerbated in a car due to all the nasty reflecting planes. It is bad enough to have to drive a driver into the comb filtering domain, but then adding another or further interference in the crossover is terrible. The other aspect of this of course is that in general passive car audio crossovers are made with uber cheap components and designed for an "average" install. This is somewhat absurd since there is no such thing as an install that is exactly like another. This means that the passive crossover was never a good choice for any vehicle ever to begin with. If you want to use a passive crossover and have it really work you should design the passive crossover using in situ measurements in the installed location. Anything else is EASILY surpassed with even a simple processor like a miniDSP. Last comment on active processors. I would avoid any ones with analog front ends. Turning a knob to dial in the frequency response or eq was fine in 1985, but today it is absurdly inaccurate and makes no sense whatsoever. I would always prefer to have control from the drivers seat as well. The more you can adapt as you sit in the listening location of the car the better.

Here you go Case. Found you the next build.

Something I can fit alot more Subs in lol