PHATBOi

What would you compare the output to 1 12, 2 12's, 1 15 (all on same power ~1500 rms)? I know this is install dependent but just curious as too a rough estimate what 4 SA-8's on 1500 rms would be comparable to in output. Any info is appreciated. Thanks.

If you run each amp seperate at a 1 ohm load, you will have to gain match the 2 amps with a dmm to get balanced output to all woofers. If you run them strapped, you have one gain, one lpf, and one ssf to set as stated above. Personally I would strap.

I love how people say get the Sundown just cause it's Sundown even though the AQ will clearly fit his application better. LMAO.

Sounds good man. Don't forget to take pics and post them up. Good luck bro. You won't be dissapointed with the Crescendos .

I am running 1 set of the Crescendos in my front doors off 160 rms per door and they love. Loud and crisp is how I would describe the sound. Best components you will find at this price poit for sure. I would run them 2 way in your doors and a second set in the back set up coaxial style. Yes these components can be ran 2 way or the tweet can be attached to middle like a regular speaker. So, $200 for 2 sets and spend the xtra $50 on some sound deadening for your doors. Check out fatmat.com, it's like $45 shipped for 25 sqft iirc. 25^ FatMat Sound Deadener Noise Killer

I bet his mom slaps his face everytime he talks like that, lol.

dem btls r da shet sun if u putz **** 2000watt hifoniks on der **** shiz iz gunna bump like no other! it just makes comen sence. for realz bruh, nikkas will hear yor shiz 2 blocks away HEAR ME B4 U SEE ME I GOTZ KING KONG IN DA TRUNK I'm pretty sure my IQ dropped 10 points just typing that.

Awsome work on the box bro. Birch FTW!

AWSOME setup bro. I am about to do 4 Sundown SA-8's in 2.4^3 @ 32HZ off 2.5K daily. Can't wait.

Yea I figured 2.4 after displacements would be ideal for so much power. I will definately have the ssf set correctly as well.

What would cause you to think this? It sounds like you need a lesson on the basics. The impedance isn't "created" by the source as you seem to be implying. You can't just increase the current output and expect impedance to decrease. By just randomly plugging numbers into Ohms Law it may appear this is possible; but it's not. Certain values in the actual circuit must be known before you can attempt to incorporate Ohms Law. The voltage and amperage you are measuring don't create an impedance. You may calculate the impedance, by using Ohms Law, because of the known variables at your disposal (the measured voltage and amperage). But the only reason you are calculating for impedance is because you are measuring the voltage and current, so you need to calculate the missing variable; impedance. To keep things simple, lets assume we are playing a test tone through the system. The load (the speaker in our case) has an impedance. This is a physical property of the loudspeaker, not a theoretical figure calculated by Ohms Law (even if calculating it is how you are able to determine what value the impedance is). The amplifier is operating a a certain level of voltage output. These two properties are going to determine the power output of the amplifier and as a result the amount of current drawn by the load. If the voltage output is 50V and the load is 4ohm, the power output would be 625w and the current output would be 12.5A. If the voltage output is 50V and the load is 2ohm, the power output would be 1250w and the current output would be 25A. The impedance of the speaker is a result of multiple different factors. The design of the enclosure, the frequency being played and the amount of heat in the coil are all going to affect impedance rise. The impedance of a 1ohm speaker at resonance may be 20ohm or more, and there's nothing you can do about it. The only way to increase the amperage output in the above example is to decrease the impedance of the speaker or increase the voltage output of the amplifier. You can not increase the amperage to decrease the impedance. It simply doesn't work that way. I assume your ultimate goal here is to get more power into the subwoofer. If you want to increase the power the subwoofer is receiving, you either need to decrease the impedance of the load (which is NOT going to happen by "creating more AC Amps") or increase the voltage output of the amplifier (which may not be possible without changing amplifiers). Just an FYI, what's going to happen when you push more power into the speaker is that the coil is going to heat up more, causing it's resistance to rise higher, creating a higher impedance, not lower. Are you aiming for an SPL fart cannon or a daily driver system? If your goal is a daily driver system, forget about impedance rise. Forget about measuring voltage and current. Just forget about it, they are ultimately unimportant to your goal. You won't have enough control over any of it to make any difference, so just stop worrying about it. Thank you. This was a good read. I always learn something from you.

My next build will consist of 4 SA-8's with whichever coil options I need to see either a 1 ohm or 2 ohm final imp. Box will be 2.4^3 net tuned to 32Hz subs up port back. I already have an AP15001D so I could get a second and make an AP30001D. Would be cheaper than the AQX2500.1, but I don't know if the 8's will take 750 a piece daily. I know the AQX2500.1 would be pushing it already. I have ran double rms to an AA Chaos 15 with my AP15001D without any problems. So I know how to watch my system for signs of stress and properly control my volume and gain. Electrical will consist of 140 amp HO Alt, Optima Red Top under the hood, Big 3 in 1/0, 1 run of 2/0 positive from front to back, 100ah in the trunk with 2/0 ground and 1/0 running to the amp. Can someone who has ran the 8's on this much power please offer me some advice. Thanks.

Doesn't really matter if your gettin the same power either way.

Vids or GTFO! LOL. Looks good bro.

Crescendo Audio :: Component Speaker Systems :: CCX65 My Car: 1 set of CCX65's off an AP3002, 160 rms per door.

Thank you, I was curious about this myself.

Some dmms you have to touch the leads together and whatever it reads subtract from the total I believe. Try touching the lead together an see if you get a 1 ohm reading. I may completely wrong here, someone correct me if I am.

Deka Intimidator 9A31 Battery Good choice for a rear batt. Others cost ALOT more and do the same thing.

I am running 1500 watts + 320 watt to the doors off stock 80 amp alt, redtop under the hood, 55ah in trunk, big three grounds in 0 awg db link, big three alt to redtop in 2/0, and 1 run of 2/0 from front to back. My voltage rests at idle ~14.1-14.2 and dips into the mid 11's full tilt. Hope this gives you some idea of what your lookin at. I'd say upgrade your front batt to Optima or equivalent and 2 100ah in the back (I will be upgrading my 55ah to 100ah soon) and you should be ok. The only thing a HO alt really does is take some of the load off your batts and charge them a little faster.

Stinger Volt Meter FTW! Put the positve wire for the volt meter in with the 0 gauge power wire in the amp's terminal, that way you know what voltage your amp is actually seeing. Don't forget to dial it in with a DMM.

NICE!

Pure and utter INSANITY!

FUCKIN AWSOME bruh! Sick build! Airbag Flex FTMFW! Lulz.

Great lookin build! Nice craftmanship on your part. Sucks about the 3-Sixty, I had two amps in a row blow on me the first time I turned the vol up past 20 on one build, lol. Took like a month and 1/2 to finish the install ftl. So State Farm just bought all this stuff, or you bought it with the check they gave you? Just curious as you keep refering to themas State Farm packages.

90% of the time that is not the case. Normally the one and only thing that changes is cone area, motor, coil, softparts, they are all the same so power handling is not effected. Right. Most models of subs use everything the same for each size of sub except for basket size and cone size. In this case the power handling among different sizes would be exactly the same. However, the slightly larger moving mass from the increased cone size can slightly shift several parameters. Is it enough to be heard, maybe. Sometimes a 15" in this scenario has an fs 3-5 hz below the 12", which may be discernible. Having boxes at the same tuning might actually make the difference more audible due to the difference in frequency response. If you want to compare the different sized subs in similar boxes, you actually need to equalize the Qtc and the f3 point of the boxes. That may mean you have to tune the 12" to 29 or 32 hz, or whatever. Some models of subs actually use different motors, or at least coils, in their different subs. I know I've seen lines where the 10" and 12" use a 2" coil, whereas the 15" uses a 2.5" coil. I think MTX used to do that. Alpine might also have. In that case, nearly all bets are off depending on how closely the manufacturer wanted to make the specs. The 15" could be such a different animal that it could actually belong in its own model line and not grouped with the 10 and 12 inch versions. Or they could make it so that the 15" has very close specs to the other sizes by machining the motor a little differently. My V1 MOFOs are like this. The 15" I had last year had a 4" voice coil and a 340oz motor, where the 12" I have now has a 3" voice coil and a 270oz motor. As for the different size subs, what I have found out is it's all about properly taking advantage of the room you have to work with. You can get better output and sound by using 1 12 in an optimal ported enclosure, if that's what you have room for, than just cramming a 15 in not enough airspace. As for the myth that bigger subs get lower, I'll leave you with this: