Don Ganso

Alpine's v-power series has a 500 watt monoblock, the MRP-M500. 300 watts at 4 ohms and 500 watts at 2 ohms. Just look in google shopping; I saw one for only $140, but they have a set subsonic filter so you'd have to deal with that, but beggars can't be choosers. Check db-r if you can squeeze a few more bucks out and look at their refurbs; I got my SAZ-1000D for $200.

Install dependent for sure. All the AQ installs I've heard were SPL based, so I guess I can't say too much about their SQ, but I was just throwing out some stuff I've heard about them. I really liked my BL, so I'd go with Fi first, but AQ is definetly got good prices. I've heard that the HDC3s handle insane power, but so do the BTLs. As long as you can afford a BTL, I'd say go for it.

Then the deal is sealed, I'll be ordering ASAP. Thanks again! Nice purchase, but to bad you missed the SSA group buy! Yeah... Make hay while the sun shines, or so they say, but in my case, the sun didn't start shining early enough in the season. Better late than never.

A.) I've heard a lot of different things about AQ, good and bad, but if you don't care too much about SQ then then they'd be fine. B.) The sub has nothing to do with electrical upgrades, that's all the amp. It will depend on what amp you get and your listening habits and to what impedance you wire the sub. I'd say Big 3 is always a good thing, no matter what.

Then the deal is sealed, I'll be ordering ASAP. Thanks again!

Perhaps some of this info should be added as a disclaimer in the "How to set your gains with a DMM" sticky.

My Uncle's restoring a '54 with the OG Blue Flame 6 cyl, but the 55-57 are nicer IMO. The '59s fins are gnarly! Makes me want a pompadour.

By "SSD" do you mean the Fi SSD or SSA as in Sound Solutions Audio? If the Fi SSD, it's not really what you want if your goal is volume. Not saying that they couldn't get loud, but the BTL or BL is more what you'd want. If SSA, then I'd say XCON, but since you really don't care about SQ then I'd look somewhere else. Not saying the XCONs can't shake the crud out of your car, but I think you'd be happier with a BTL than an XCON. Ascendant look at them Mayhem or Havoc.

Lord knows what I'll be driving next, but I do want plenty of juice.... Any other XS batts you would recomend for my application? I was thinking 1200 front and 1200 back and then 3400 front and 1200 back, but I guess I would like to hear more about what you would recommend, if anything. I have read the "I have an XXXXXX watt system" thread many times and been to the site as well, but I just want to be sure of what I want before I pull the trigger. Money doesn't grow on trees unless you're a lumberjack.

Go to your local welding supply store and pic up some 1/0 welding cable. She'll do ya real nice for not too much money, and you'll never what you might get besides, I got free terminals! lol Seriously though, the extra 30ish bucks will be worth your time, my voltage in my car went from 12.5 to 14.3 after I did the big 3, and I'm really glad I did; it's a must.

I have enough money for either battery, I am just curious which is better for my needs: It has to be a 12v battery that has 6 cells or less and is less than 800 cubic inches, but both batteries already fit this criteria I think. I will be replacing my starting battery first and then adding a secondary battery later. I will change vehicles at some point in the next few years so I guess the smaller s1200 would be more flexible as far as space limitations are concerned, but the 3400 would fit in the starting battery location of my current vehicle, (1993 Saturn SW2). As long as either battery fits I will go with the one with more juice, (of course), but I know that the 3400 doesn't have the steel case where as the 1200 does. Will the 3400 be safe? Last but not least, when it says that the battery can supply x number of watts as a starting battery, does that mean before or after you take into account all of the stock electrical stuff like lights and windows and locks, or after? Currently my system is a total of about 1000 watts RMS, but it will be going towards 2500 in the future. I currently have an 85 amp alt and the big 3 done, so I'd like a large battery bank to help me out voltage-drop wise. Thanks

Close enough for me as this is just a daily box and 1 Hz difference one way or another in tuning isn't going to be noticeable. Thanks again, time to get out the power tools....

Thanks for the reply, but indecisive me has a new box! (Still for the 2 SA-8s of course with the .1cuft displacement per sub) 3/4" MDF of course Subs up, (double baffle on top), port back, (slot) Dimensions: Inner: ---------- Outer: ---------- Port: 33.5" w ---------- 35" w ---------- 9.75" h 9.75" h ---------- 12" h ---------- 3" w 14.5" d ---------- 16" d ---------- 36ish" l The port will be "L" shaped and the first part of the "L" before the corner will be double-baffled. 1.74ish cubes after port and sub displacements, and probably about 1.6 cubes after 45s and bracing. 33ish Hz?

I like this idea considering the amount of room the OP has in the trunk. BTW, the SA-10s are coming out soon for a pre-order and judging by how great the feedback on the SA-8s and SA-12s have been, they are sure to be a good pick for a good price. Although the ICONs are supposed to get a makeover, which could make them even more badass... Decisions, decisions....

I've seen it... I'm liking the LEDs in the enclosure.

Although he had a v.1 not a v.2... Great gravy I gotta learn to read... Either way, good luck with this Jay-cee. Keep on keepin' on.

Good call! I saw v.2 and I forgot that the nightshade was getting a makeover too! That and it's still a single 15. I thought for sure he'd go for 12s.

Whoever told you that 1/0 was overkill should be dragged out into the street and pooped on.

That has ended. Now 129 + SH I cashed in just in time then... Mine just arrived today, and may I say Jacob, they look tasty! Although, instead of eating these I think I'll put them in my car... It IS a surprise selling my 15 and then getting these little monsters out of the box. I took one look at them and thought they were midbasses until I saw the magnet! Great job, another quality Sundown product! Now to see how they sound...

I have a question: (This is from denim's big 3 guide in the tech/how to section) The Big 3 Are: 1. negative battery wire to ground - just replace the negative batt. terminal and wire and ground it to the factory location 2. engine block to ground - replace the ground wire from the engine block to the chasie with a bigger wire (maybe 4 guage) 3. alternator to batt - add a fused wire from the postive post on you alternator (the one comming from the battery) to the postive terminal on your battery. DO NOT exchange wires just add a extra one. make sure it fused the same size as your factory fuse. hope thats helps Note on #2- Some cars have a batt-engine block connection stead of chassis to engine block.. So wait a minute, I want to limit the power my alt can give my battery? What if I had an H/O alt? This wouldn't make sense IMO. I could see fusing to the wire's amp rating or something, but how is more amperage going to hurt the battery and/or car? Sorry if this post detracts from the OP's question, johnecon just said to post 'em up, so I did.

I don't smoke, so I use my ashtray as an earplug holder. lol If you want to carry it over into your daily driving practices for the sake of your ears, keep a set of plugs around for when you want to show off for friends and whatnot.

There is an Fi BL 10 in the classifieds section that could take that power.

So wait a sec, you changed your sig back to the Z15... Did the sale not go through?

Well... I still need to do this at a show for it to count. Then I will add some more amps. Or.... maybe see if I can do a 160 with 2 1000d's. I haven't made any new goals yet. You'll see what the future holds in store then? Good luck at your next show!

An epic waste of money putting that many mids in there. I guess when you have that kind of money you have two choices: flush it down the toilet or spend excessively.