slim142

I might want to take it apart and check. Just for the heck of it. Thanks for the tip. On a side note, I just got 2 Kicker CVRs (2007 models) for $80 shipped. A dual 12" ported enclosure (tuned to 33hz, 1.67cubic ft per chamber) for $80 shipped. So Im back with Bass by next week wednesday (hopefully). I think I got a good deal. Will sell it on craiglist in a few weeks once Im good to go for the XCONS

I hate you OP lol pretty cool tho

Ok looks like the subwoofer died. I took it to an audio shop, they tested it and seems like it is dead. Weird cause it does not look blown to the touch. I guess it overheated? Thats the only possible guess. Anyways, my DMM works, when both probes touch I get random numbers. R.I.P TS-W3002D4 It gave me over two years of monster and delicious bass. The abuse it took was outstanding. Best subwoofer Ive had to date. Will cry the moment I see the garbage truck take it away from me (ok maybe not lol) Im trying to see if I can score a killer deal like 2 CVRs for $100 and hold on until I can get xcons. Since the xcons will take some time because I will need an extra battery and a custom enclosure, I cant be driving without bass.

Im still in that saving process. $900 will definitely be felt in the bank lol In the mean time, Im sub-less and it really sucks

The first thing that comes to my mind is failure coming somewhere else. Can heat cause failure in other area than the coils? The trunk is always hot and the sub would sometimes stays hot for long periods of time. But whenever I smelled anything, I would turn it down. I dont know, thats just a guess. Funny thing is that the sub does not smell and never smelled burned and does not look blown to the touch. Weird... right when I have a 3500D on the way

The tinsel lead is that wire that sits right on top of the spider right? In this SUBWOOFER you have 100% access to that. However, in my subwoofer, you dont http://www.cartuningparts.co.uk/img/pioneer-ts-w3002d4-dual-voice-coil-subwoofer-12-inch-3500w-max-power-nominal-1000w_664741_500.jpg You see, there is a red "fence" that does not allow the tinsel lead or spider to be touched.

This are my terminals http://caraudiomag.com/sites/default/files/images/00000/31/83/kenwood_kfcxw100f.jpg I inserted the leads into the terminals (which are push-pin just like the pic) nothing. I also tried touching only the circumference of the terminal, nothing. The surroundings of the terminals, nothing either. I cant read from the tinsel leads, I have no access to those. I honestly wouldnt like to open my doors just to test the DMM. Never done that to my BMW and I dont think I want to do that. I sold 2 pairs of speakers that I had for sale last week, now I have no speakers to test the DMM. Is the only way to see if the subwoofer is working or not is checking with a DMM?

I did try reading each coil, and even with the speaker wire connected in parallel, but nothing. The DMM was set on the ohm sign (resistance) like I always do for speakers. Last time I used it was like 4 months ago and it was working fine. So considering the tinsel leads were defective by any chance, why wouldnt the sub play at all anyways? Is something I dont understand.

So yesterday I was coming back from college and on the way I was blasting my music like everyday. 10 mins before I got home, I noticed there was no lows No burning smell at all. Which was weird... Today I checked and the subwoofer is not playing. I checked the speaker wire connections, nothing out of place. So I decided to use my DMM and read the coils, since I pushed the cone and it does not look or feel blown at all. I used my DMM and both coils give me no reading. 0.L on the DMM. I checked the coils and nothing seems burned, broken, out of place or moved. I have no idea what could have happened to the sub. Any ideas?

As a matter of fact, I was planning on adding a D3100 once I had the money for the two xcons Dont want to stress out my alternator. Especially a BMW one lol And as a bonus, replace the factory battery also to an XS (whatever fits in the factory hole). I think that should be able to handle 3500watts for most trips. Now I also plan on adding a voltmeter just so that I can make sure my voltage stays up. Thanks for the help. I wanted to make sure I was doing the right thing here.

No no no Im not having issues with my car or my 2000D at the moment. No problems at all. Even Jacob said at 2 Ohm is just fine. Lights never dim or anything. Im just asking because I have a 3500D on the way, but again, I will be using it at 2ohm for now until I get my two 12s xcons. I NEVER play music with car off. I learned the hard way long time ago when I was getting into car audio and didnt even know what ohm resistance was lol and btw, I have factory alternator and only one battery, the factory one. No issues at all. But again, Im asking for reference in the future...

Ok so I understand that if you dont want to deal with upgrading your alternator, you put more reserve of power (aka batteries). However, I understand that if your voltmeter tells you that voltage is below ~12v, then you are running into problems. I have a question regarding this. Let say I play my music and I see voltmeter says 11.9v but I already have my main battery upgraded, and an extra battery. At that point of having 2 batteries, will my problem be easily fixed with ANOTHER (a third) battery or would I have to get an H/O alternator? Reason Im asking is because a group 31 is ~$300, and an alternator for most cars is also around that price. However, I have a BMW and got a quote from DC that an alternator is ~$600-700. I want to know whats the best way to solve my problem (in the future) once I get my 3500D installed and use with 2 XCONS at 1ohm (3500watts). Also, a completely out of place question. Will it be ok if I run 2 15s in my BMW trunk? (2008 328i Sedan). I dont care if it takes up all the trunk. However, I do NOT want a wall. I also do not want to run two 15s in a small enclosure that will put them in danger of failure. Thanks

Well im still kind of a noob, thats why I never really understood the point of this thing. Why do we need one? I mean, the signal is sent clean from the receiver, the amp then uses the crossover to cut the unwanted frequencies. Why do we need this audio processor? Isnt that what the receiver does already?

Im interested in a Medium. Dont wanna risk it and have a saggy shirt lol maybe post armpit to armpit measurement?

Yo thats some crazy shit right there bro. I got 1k rms in my pioneer (I know) and it moves nothing, shakes the trunk a lot tho lmao. BMW seals the trunk too much. I cant wait to upgrade to 2 XCONS and do some serious damage. Can you make a video showing more your install? Im interested on seeing your enclosure, sub, battery and installation itself.

Thanks!

Are you guys going to be ordering more of these? Mediums seems to be sold out

Somebody explain to me the price and advantages because right now I dont see any point on buying this over Knu. Not trying to be a douche here btw, just asking a question.

OMG THAT IS SICK! How does it affect sound? Positively or negatively? Is it bad for subs to play like that?

I wish I could get a brand new 3500D for that price, now I would jump on that without even thinking about it haha

could you put what you have in the truck? And good vid, btw what song is that?

15 BTl gets my vote. If you prefer to lean towards the SQ side, go for the ZCON. But both will get ridiculously loud and sound great

broken link

I never heard or had an SSA sub, but I will be buying 2 XCONS very soon. Im pretty sure you wont be disappointed.