BanginGMC

Hahahah once i get my girls camera i'll upload some pictures and videos as well.

Multiple layers isn't a waste if you want to stop flex. I used roughly 7 layers on Second Skin just on my roof.

Loudest of the day with 151.1dBs! Never metered under 150.9 in SPL WOOT WOOT! I took home 7 medals SPL Best of Show SPL 1st Place Truck Wild 1st Place Best Customized Phat Truck Best Paint 2nd Place Drive By.

Whenever you want to get in the ring with the big boys let me know!

So.... who is going to tell me what time it starts?

Alternator should be your first investment, because unlike a secondary battery.. when you want to upgrade your system to one that will pull even more current the alternator will be able to keep up. I reccomend DC Power Engineering

Bingo! Scrape that shit off asap!

I'm selling some Bravox Carbon Fiber 6.5 comps for 200 OBO Check it out in the for sale section my man! Check this Alpine out http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/pdx-5

High Output alternator is pretty much a must with running amps at .5 or lower.

Any recommendations?

Gotta love it

I'm competing, what is this "display your vehicle for charity" is it like show and shine? Would you win anything? Info Info Info!

Seriously though... who pays retail for anything in car audio? If you do, I feel sorry for you. You can get stinger products for CHEEAAAPP.

No forget about welding cable. Stinger makes great products.

Thanks No. It's ugly. haha i'm sure its not thaaat bad

You coming right?

I think you may underestimate the differences in your hearing sensitivity at various frequencies. 110db @ 1khz is a lot different than 110db @ 50hz. Your hear is much more sensitive to sounds in the midrange than it is to subbass, so you will experience more "loudness" in the midrange with less SPL compared to subbass. It will only take a true HLCD a watt or two to reach 110db in the midrange. I doubt you could stand to listen to a consistent 120db in the midrange for any appreciable period of time, which for a 105db sensitivity horn would only take around 30w to achieve. You would probably reach your threshold of pain from the output of the horns before you would reach it from the output of your subs. The Sundown would be more than sufficient. You have me worried though.. you say 1 watt is enough for normal listening but i'll be using the 125.2 at 8ohms giving them 50-70 watts daily, I don't want to learn sign language anytime soon. I'm confused on what i should do now.. Then your ONLY choice is to turn EVERYTHING down. Again, there is a gain knob on your amp and should be on ANY processor that can handle active. Having a 1000w amp on the tweeters would then be fine, you'd just give the amp less voltage than you do your other channels. Thought so.

I'm likin' the build so far . Picture of the car?

I think you may underestimate the differences in your hearing sensitivity at various frequencies. 110db @ 1khz is a lot different than 110db @ 50hz. Your hear is much more sensitive to sounds in the midrange than it is to subbass, so you will experience more "loudness" in the midrange with less SPL compared to subbass. It will only take a true HLCD a watt or two to reach 110db in the midrange. I doubt you could stand to listen to a consistent 120db in the midrange for any appreciable period of time, which for a 105db sensitivity horn would only take around 30w to achieve. You would probably reach your threshold of pain from the output of the horns before you would reach it from the output of your subs. The Sundown would be more than sufficient. You have me worried though.. you say 1 watt is enough for normal listening but i'll be using the 125.2 at 8ohms giving them 50-70 watts daily, I don't want to learn sign language anytime soon. I'm confused on what i should do now..

Thanks for the input guys, today i'm finishing up my doors and i'll see how they AA Carbons perform along with my sub bass. I'm going to change the settings on the head unit in the AAs favor also. Jay-Cee i got you PM, i'm going to finish my install up and then get back with you.

You down to come help? ---- Thanks for the tip ulrisa

This is what I do as well, it's the only surefire way to know that you are getting the least resistance. OP I noticed you did 2 1/0 runs on the positive, but did you do two 1/0 chassis grounds when you did the big 3? The ground is just as important as the positive. Tomorrow i'm going to go through everything and double up where its not. I'm prepping for the up coming show. Wouldn't that be the same as grounding straight to the frame though or is grounding to the batt better? It is, but my battery is closer than my frame Gotcha, in my bed where my 4 XS batts are i'm only using 1 run of 0awg wire to connect each batt. Like so; I'm thinking about doubling up on it, sound like a good idea to you guys?

This is what I do as well, it's the only surefire way to know that you are getting the least resistance. OP I noticed you did 2 1/0 runs on the positive, but did you do two 1/0 chassis grounds when you did the big 3? The ground is just as important as the positive. Tomorrow i'm going to go through everything and double up where its not. I'm prepping for the up coming show. Wouldn't that be the same as grounding straight to the frame though or is grounding to the batt better?

I have hundreds of feet of 0 gauge stinger wire brand new.. i'm just lazy man. Are you talking about runnin' a neg from the batt under the hood to the neg on the batt in the back? If so, I have a few runs.