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Here's a link to his build log: There using an spl labs meter.

I would love to do a HUGE build with a bunch of these, and only 1000watts total

Your videos are sick and your build is sick. Please post a build log here

Well hopefully this new build will be the best. Always amazed how the same equipment in one vehicle another or enclosure can be so different.

Did you ever get a chance to get your sundowns metered? They musta been loud, even if the port was choked a bit

Looks like mine, the rear plastic panels are out, handles on roof are missing and so forth. Looks like the cabin is sorta small, should get nice and loud

Yeah just text me the day before and if im free ill come hang out. I can help carry wood around

Yeah probably this week. It's just so damn hot. Yeah, it's easy to just give you shit and then forget how hot it is... I mounted my left door panel with the new fiberglass panel, and decided I'm just going to leave it on unfinished until it cools off, it's just ridiculous trying to glass with the fumes, and sand for hours in the garage. Yeah that's where the box building goes down. We did my box for the 10's like two weeks ago and it sucked. Phoenix was awful today. Curious, as I didn't ask earlier, did you not have enough room to take full advantage of the 4 10s, where as now, you hope you can get an optimal enclosure for the single 18"? I see the posts above, but just wondered the reasoning for the drop in cone area. Phx is a good 5-10degrees hotter then here huh It's mini wall time The tens were choked like crazy. The box was big enough but the port was too close to the trunk, and subs were too close to the deck. I'm sure this will be enough, (for a few weeks) and if not I'll grab another. This sounds sweet, can't wait to hear another xcon! I would offer lending a hand but I'm the last person you want when working with wood

That car isn't going to last very long at that rate

Yeah probably this week. It's just so damn hot. Yeah, it's easy to just give you shit and then forget how hot it is... I mounted my left door panel with the new fiberglass panel, and decided I'm just going to leave it on unfinished until it cools off, it's just ridiculous trying to glass with the fumes, and sand for hours in the garage. Yeah that's where the box building goes down. We did my box for the 10's like two weeks ago and it sucked. Phoenix was awful today. Curious, as I didn't ask earlier, did you not have enough room to take full advantage of the 4 10s, where as now, you hope you can get an optimal enclosure for the single 18"? I see the posts above, but just wondered the reasoning for the drop in cone area. Phx is a good 5-10degrees hotter then here huh

Yeah probably this week. It's just so damn hot. Yeah, it's easy to just give you shit and then forget how hot it is... I mounted my left door panel with the new fiberglass panel, and decided I'm just going to leave it on unfinished until it cools off, it's just ridiculous trying to glass with the fumes, and sand for hours in the garage.

Hurry up and build the box so I can hear it

Sounds like a nice setup Don't need a lot of power to get loud.

Physics Can't 1500 watts at 1 ohm just be 1500 watts at 1 ohm! How fun it is to dream.... In all honesty, this is how it is, there is no circumventing, there is no good reason for worrying about it unless you are competing seriously. If so then you already know all about impedance rise and enclosure volumes, their correlation, tuning for peak frequency, burp boxes, driver & port positioning, cabin gain, and how to put it all together...

Let's say a magical amplifier was 100% efficient, meaning it didn't lose any power to heat, etc. At 14.0v it would require 107amperes to produce 1498watts. There is no way for an amp to produce more power then the amperage and voltage it's being ran on. And most amps are measured at higher frequencies and higher ohm loads then what they'll actually be used for. At least in your case. Saz1500d for example, Efficiency : 86% @ 4 ohm, at 100Hz. You'll likely have it crossed a fair amount lower, it'll be playing frequencies even lower, and your probably going to wire down to 1ohm, so your real world efficiency is going to drop. Now let me blow your mind, there's this thing called impedance rise, and well, once you start playing music, tones, what ever, the voicecoils on the driver will heat up and the impedance will rise a fair amount. Meaning you'll never really see 1500watts, at least for very long. Oh and music is dynamic unlike a sine wave, so even impedance rise thrown to the side, you'll never have a constant 1500watts to your drivers (not even close). Don't forget that for the most post, speakers are very inefficient in terms of power. IIRC, 90%+ of power applied to a speaker is transferred into heat, and the small remaining percentage actually produces output. And that sound is on a logarithmic scale, not linear. In a perfect world, it would take twice the original power to increase output by 3dB.

Only advice I can say is, don't think your the shit because your stereo is louder then everyone else's and blast your music in the school parking lot, or it'll likely be stolen awfully soon. Sundown amps are efficient, but nothing special. There is no way to magically make power, it must come from somewhere (alternator and batteries).

I wish I could get a demo of this *calls his local police department*, except the bastards write me a ticket after I demo mine...

Are there gaps large enough you can see light through? Is it air tight? Really depends how straight / crooked the edges are. Silicone and wood glue can help, but only so far... Got any pictures?

Yeah man not very far