ssh

What coils do your icons have? And your planning on switching to xcons and wiring to .5? In my honest opinion, don't be cheap and run it at .5, if you need 3000watts buy a 3000d. And if you do end up running it at 0.5 you better have a good electrical setup.

Lets just make sure were on the same page, do you know for a fact that the amp is on? Does the light on the amp light up? Try plugging an ipod into the amp for the signal, if that works then your LOC isn't working. You can hook your ipod to the amp by using a 3.5mm jack to rca cable. Lets make sure your amp is actually turning on, getting a signal, and producing power before you start accusing someone.

That's a nice looking babe!!

That works well if you leave a small gap (inch or so) between where the seats fold back and the box, that way when the seats are up there's still space for the subwoofer to move without hitting the seats. But you would want to seal the box and the opening, likely using a wood panel or foam. It's something more of a DIY person would do. You'd likely get better output and less rattle, but it's a lot more work and you would be altering the interior as the previous plan did. So I believe for you, in your case, a traditional ported enclosure would be best. Andrew knows his stuff, I'd just tell him your max dimensions, what driver(s) you want to use, and let him work his magic. Forgive me and others who aren't the OP for cluttering the topic Andrew

That's not an addiction, that's just being stupid... Could of worded that any better.

Make a new thread under "Argent Audio" with that information.

I've only gotten my volvo up to a 100, wasn't really trying to see how fast it would go though. I've ridden my dirt bike in the desert parallel to the freeway and was passing cars once

I hear ya. You can always have a rear seat down when your not carrying people in the back, and the rest of the time have a bit less output. But yeah doing a traditional ported enclosure not fitted to seal against the trunk will work fine. Take some measurements of the trunk area and trunk entrance, figure out your max dimensions for a box you could fit inside, then Andrew can build to that. Post a build log when you get a chance

You should be able to get the computer flashed to raise the limiter, most of the time there set to some arbitrary or excessive number like 500. The c30 we have is set to 130 stock...

I would cut out a a rectangle in the above sheet metal, as long as it doesn't effect structural safety (which it shouldn't considering that area is thin sheet metal). So cut out a rectangle so your making an opening for the bass to enter the cabin, you could then make a fiberglass panel or wood panel wrapped in carpet, pleather, vinyl, etc to go over the cut sheet metal area. Then you'd have your opening but with a decent beauty panel it'd look stock.

It's a bad way trying to combat mids and highs being drowned out from bass. Throw more and more drivers into the front stage, whether there above, below, to the left, to the right, or behind you and throw more power at them.

Good deal

Is there a ski pass in the center of the rear seats that goes down?

x2 That box is acting as a blockade / sealer between the trunk and cabin, so unless you start cutting some of that sheet metal on top...

Obviously the company has tons of overhead, but I remember seeing a few episodes where they had to meet their quota at the end of the day, I think they were doing like $10k or something everyday.

I started watching their youtube channel about 2 months ago, I remember seeing a few episodes of doing dash ipads. Never knew they were selling that

Love these kinds of mods! Would lke to see the steps you take in making this happen! i'll try and take lots of pics. this will be a slow project with my work schedule sucking tho... Completely agree with Sefugi, anything to do with glassing is exciting to me. I'm moving into a new house in a few weeks and I should have a lot more room to do projects, I'm hoping to do some glassing for a while, make some pod/shelf speakers, and move on to my doors.

I just sold a saz1500d v2 in excellent condition locally today, I bet it'll be fried in a few months... Buyer didn't want to spend 60 bucks on proper power wire, much less a battery or h/o alt.

word, shit slows down sometimes and I find myself not knowing what to do.

If you use a dmm and check the voltage on your power wire and it's above 12v (although it'd likely still start if it were lower 11v eh) then it's good. Make sure your ground is good, making contact metal to metal, scrap away any paint in the way You can check the remote turn on with the dmm, make sure it's got power or your amp will never turn on. Another thing to test if your amp still works, and without using the pac is, run some wire from your rem input on amp to your power wire. This would make your amp stay on 24/7 so be sure to disconnect it after testing. If the amp turns on and plays then the problem is in your pac, if it doesn't turn on, you likely fucked up the amp when you decided to see who would win, 12v lots of current short circuit vs amp case and internals lol.

On a side note, my phone is a total piece of shit, it's one of the free phones that come with the plan, haven't upgraded phones in a while. Got an email from TigerDirect about some sale on Droid X's, free with new VZW customers, or $50 for an upgrade every two. So about 15 minutes later I ordered a brand new fancy droid x for a whopping 50 bucks, completely unexpected lol.

When you hit 45k posts your name should change to gold or some shit, although I actually like the tech purple more...

Some people learn or read misinformation / teachings, do everything based off of of their theory, and can't except it being wrong no matter what proof is being brought to the table.

Yeah perhaps I'll switch head units, mine as well get one for when I do my front stage. Luckily for my car I mounted the hu at the bottom of the dash, so my ipad is above it, easy to get to hu controls link too any pics??? I have a cord sewed into my dashmat, I have the apple ipad case with the cover flipped back over, so the ipad hangs off the cord, it sits right above the hu, it's fast and easy to take out and doesn't move much surprisingly. I'll post a picture with the ipad in tomorrow.

You dropped a live wire on the amp itself and expect it to work? You should use a dmm and test the remote turn on from the pac for voltage.