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What doesn't sound right? whats your ssf and lpf filters set to?

I'm not sure but that amp may have a fixed ssf, which presents a problem if your using a ported enclosure.

Use a 0gauge to 4gauge end reducer, then you can run 0gauge out of your 4gauge output. Such as: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16846_Stinger+SPT821+-Gold-.html DOPENESSSSSSS. Thanks alot man. No problem

Use a 0gauge to 4gauge end reducer, then you can run 0gauge out of your 4gauge output. Such as: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16846_Stinger+SPT821+-Gold-.html

And this is why a lot of people don't take stereo shops seriously...

Hmmm....would that be sufficient if it's a short run? If it's a short run why don't you just spend an extra 10 bucks or whatever and use 0gauge? You can get 0gauge from weldingsupply.com, it's generally cheaper then any "car audio" wire and it's exactly the same, if not better.

Where do i get that enclosure? EDIT: Will the BTL have better or Equal SQ to L7s? Enclosure right here from SSA. Get the BL you will love it. Where are the prices...where do i order? http://khaotikenclosures.com/

Both the BL and BTL will sound better then L7s, granted your enclosure is built right and not tuned high.

Yes. Stepping up to that much power requires a fairly big electrical upgrade. Your battery(s) aren't going to supply enough power, you'll need a h/o alt to power your amp(s) and keep your batteries charged. Depending on if you want to play for long periods of time with the engine off, you'll need a battery bank... Not trying to sway your decision in going big, just want you to be aware that amps don't make power and the bigger they are, the more power they require. I'll be looking out for your build in the future

So I leave the current resistor on the new harness, and the new one will be connected to old harness?

If possible, I'd like to not cut open the plastic mold (that way when I go to sell my jeep I could put the stock alt back on). Couldn't I wire and solder the red wire from the new harness to the original B+ on the old harness and wire the white wire (ground) on new harness to the old harness ground? And then the new resistor your sending me would go on B1 and B2? Would that work? Am I right about the resistor going on B1 and B2? If not, what does it connect to then? Thank you for all the help, I appreciate it. -Stefan

Here's what I got so far after talking to Kyle, Do I need to unplug the resistor from the new harness and solder it to the old plug (labeled connector a)?

Here's the wiring from the stock harness:

where the stock harness connects into the rest of all the vehicles wiring, part of it is just wired together and wrapped with tape and plastic housing, and then theres a snap connector, but it doesn't look anything like the new harness. I'll get a picture of what I'm talking about

Hey guys, So here's pictures of stock harness and new one: stock new The blue wire goes to positive stud on alt, correct? I know where the black positive cable from stock wiring goes to positive stud on alt (from stock pic) But where/does the white wire, and the two red wires go to the old wiring? In the pic you see the red wire with ring terminal on left, but on the right theres another red wire about 3-4" long with no ring terminal, just dangling (is this one used?) Thanks

Your idea of sq is of: "beamer, mercedes, etc cars are fast" and true diehard sq audiophiles is of: "formula one cars are fast" Bad analogy, but my point is: The btl is geared for getting loud, but it still sounds good and in end you'd be happy with it's ability to accurately reproduce bass. Now if your #1 goal is true sq then you'd look into the Qs icons xcons... At least that's what I believe.

Titebond wood glue works well

videos!, have fun

if you can afford the electrical upgrades and amps to run ~4000watts then get a pair of btls, if not, go with the bls.

If this for your 18" Fi Q? Is this going in a car or home audio?

I believe you can accomplish all your goals with replacing factory speakers with better ones, rather then just adding more and more speakers. Quality > quantity.

that's some amazing work you do man. I like the skull girl praying

I always just tightly wrap electrical tape around mine

sweet, thanks for the update. Powder-coat or not, these alts are simply machined beauty.

well i would like to just have the bottom, side, top, back..MDF, then i would just like the front fiberglassed..with tilted subs port in the middle..my estimate would be about 3.5 cubes...Don't have packaging peanuts so I just have ballpark numbers or any other ideas.... Sounds like it's going to be 99% rectangular shaped, so volume measurement should be easy to attain