An-i-no

What ohms do you want to run? Don't think he knows...

Fair enough.

Disregard the part about having different amps. I'm a dummy. Well he said the amp was cool in 100 degree+ Arizona weather. I've been to Bullhead City for the summer and that shit is NO JOKE. And I live in Texas normally lol. I just find it hard to believe that the Heatsink on an amp is cool if the amp is running and it's 105 outside. I understand the low voltage thing, I still think that's what his problem is, but if the center of the amp is cool and the heatsink in the only hot part then...that sounds ok to me lol.

Aw shit mang you just answered your question. The heatsink gets "very toasty" cuz it's a HEATSINK! It's pulling heat away from the amps internals. It's doing what it's supposed to. If the middle of the amp (where the more sensitive parts are) is really hot then that's a problem but if that part's cool then you should be good. And Duran is right. Say your H/U puts out 2 volts which your amp turns into 40 at 3/4 gain. If you get a new H/U that makes 4 volts and your amp turns that into...40...at 1/2 gain, then the amp is still making the same power and you didn't do anything. Having the gain up high is NOT BAD, if that's where you need it to be. Having it TOO HIGH is bad. This gain rule is funny to me...almost like people saying "don't ever push your car past XXXXrpm cuz that will mess it up." Only true if you don't know what the hell you're doing. I have that same amp and it never gets hot. This is also in the 100+ degree Arizona heat, but I have proper electrical upgrades. What he said, what's "proper electrical upgrades?" And by never gets hot, you mean even the heatsink isn't hot? I find that a lil hard to believe. Also, he said his amp has a 150 amp fuse, while yours is a new "constant power" series and shouldn't have a fuse on it? (Not tryin to be all lawyer-type but I'm sorta thinking he has an older power series amp, unless I either read what he posted wrong or they hide the fuses on those new power amps.)

Hey bro this is probably weird, but where in Waco are you? Never thought anyone here knew about SSA besides me and a couple of friends.

Aw shit mang you just answered your question. The heatsink gets "very toasty" cuz it's a HEATSINK! It's pulling heat away from the amps internals. It's doing what it's supposed to. If the middle of the amp (where the more sensitive parts are) is really hot then that's a problem but if that part's cool then you should be good. And Duran is right. Say your H/U puts out 2 volts which your amp turns into 40 at 3/4 gain. If you get a new H/U that makes 4 volts and your amp turns that into...40...at 1/2 gain, then the amp is still making the same power and you didn't do anything. Having the gain up high is NOT BAD, if that's where you need it to be. Having it TOO HIGH is bad. This gain rule is funny to me...almost like people saying "don't ever push your car past XXXXrpm cuz that will mess it up." Only true if you don't know what the hell you're doing.

Aw shit. You done started another one of these.... Pick whichever one you want. Pick one cuz one's cheaper, or cuz one's prettier, it doesn't matter. Pick whatever you like because the do the exact same thing. People will come in here and say "well Sundown's underrated and will actually do more" and that's true (to a certain extent. Don't get the SAZ-1500d and expect 2000 watts. It's a 1500 watt amp, it'll do a little extra. You will never notice the extra, or be be able to measure it.) but Audioque is "underrated" as well but like I said, don't get a AQ1200d and expect 1500 watts. It's not a 1500 watt amp. Sundown is more expensive. People will come in here and say it's because "you can pick up the phone and talk to the owner" or "awesome customer service costs money" but those aren't the real reason. Sundown is a dealer brand. They sell to dealers who sell to you. That equals more markup. Audioque has no dealers, they sell factory direct. That equals NO markup so they can sell for waaaaayyy cheaper. With Sundown, you have to be careful and buy from Authorized Dealers or you won't get a warranty. Audioque can only be bought straight from the source, so that's not a problem. People will come in and say Sundown is built better, but...really? As long as you take care of either one it will pretty much last as long as you need it to so don't worry about that. So if they do the same thing, both are underrated, and both last why buy Sundown? You pay for the dealer's rent, the extra engineering, and the super reliable name. (not that Audioque ISN'T reliable) That's all. If you want to pay extra for Sundown, do it. If you don't buy Audioque. Period. EDIT: What I'm really trying to say is...there's no Magic "Sundown sauce" that makes Sundown products better than any other. They're good. But Audioque is too lol. (And if it seems like I'm bashing Sundown, my SA-12's get lower than gas in a Trans-Am so yeah...lol)

Low voltage. Either that or you have it at .5 and not 2? But more than likely low voltage. Is it hot as fuck in your car? Cuz if it's 85 outside and you get in and jam it might be operating just fine but since it started out at 100+degrees it just gets hotter?

Maybe the heatsink is REEEEAAAALLLLY frickin effective? But seriously, what gauge wire (and brand) and where is it grounded? You 2 fuses in the power wire right? One for the battery and one for the amp?

Noticed this earlier...it's sliiiiiiiiiick!

For sale? Pm me with a price...

Why thank you kind sir.

x100000 Rather my amp go into protect than not and blow something. In the lanes though.... I don't care where i am. Still would rather it go into protect than break something. I meant that it COULD be a disadvantage in some cases. An engine that bogs when you're on it too hard is a plus for inexperienced drivers but a con for ppl at the dragstrip...if you get me.

x100000 Rather my amp go into protect than not and blow something. In the lanes though....

SIIIIIIIKE lol. I made this in my InDesign class (one of my throwaway classes to fill my schedule up)and I think it actually turned out decent. DON'T HATE on the Meade picture, I needed a face-offy picture and that one was perfect. Just thought I'd throw this up here since it has SSA references on it. It's supposed to be folded up like a DVD/Blu-ray cover before anyone asks about the random title in the middle of it.

Damn...No plans for anything but mono's?

No problem. If it does go away, it's somewhere in your h/u or rca's. If it stays then it's the amp like you thought. Also, does it mirror your rpm or is it constant? (like if you're driving and smash on the gas does it get higher pitched?)

What he said. Two one ohm stable amps in one case. It's a 2-channel, not a mono. Thanks, got it. The only reason I know is cuz my dumb ass couldn't find it under mono amps on some website. I was like "whaa 2 channel?" ON TOPIC: They're releasing a 4-channel right? If it has dope ass crossovers I'll be all over it...

There's a SSA noise guide somewhere. I'll find it later. If you unplug the rca's does the noise go away?

Hell yeah. With decent(flexible) speaker wire.

What he said. Two one ohm stable amps in one case. It's a 2-channel, not a mono.

Makes sense. Thanks.

Hmmmm...I kinda expected that. While I have your attention, what makes a passive crossover different from say the high-pass on my amp? If I ran the set passive, then ran active at the same xover point, why would it make a difference? I wanna replace these with the AA Carbon set, so I wanna know before I dive into the Active Club.

Oh wow. Got the pros in here. Well I'm not sure I have the concept of on and off axis yet. ON axis means pointed at me right? If so then yes, the right tweet is aimed straight at my face, the left is a little off,kinda pointed behind me to the left. I dont have enough amp channels to run active so I need them to run off of the Hertz passives, which is crossed at...yknow. I'm down for a lesson so hit me with everything. EDIT: The passives ARE crossed at...cmon brain.

One of my my Hertz HSK-165 tweeters came loose and I slammed it in the door... The housing cracked but it still plays. I was just wondering if there was anything I could replace it with that would work crossed at 3500 on a 12db slope? Replacement tweets are not an option. Don't need a lecture on buying authorized either. I bought these knowing there was no warranty.