BKOLFO4

I read on another forum it will have the Ti basket. Sounds like nick was just doing some drop testing for shipping with this basket, since it is weaker than the Ti basket.

Will the SMD sub use a 12 spoke basket?

Never really liked the idea of having to remove the A/C comp to add another alt. Astro van was not a great electrical system for a daily driver and the amount of power I am running. Next will more than likely be a 2000-2002 Tahoe with multiple alts and might even try going with a 16 volt system. . . Brian

Took everything out today. . .new owner of the van shoud lbe here to get it in the next few hours. Look for a new and bigger build log coming in the next few months. . .

Make sure there are no strands of wire that did not go into the terminal connector and are touching each other or the opposite terminal. Next, get an ohm reading on each coil. Should be around 0.7 ohms. How are they wired? If you have all 4 coils in parallel, that is around 0.17 DCR. Sure you wired them correctly? Let us know the results. . . Brian

In my example, I made the box volume smaller and changed the length of my port so that the port tuning frequency stayed the same. . . The only parameter I varied was internal box volume. . . Making the box small and raising you tuning frequency at the same time may or may not help. Knowing the peak your need for you vehicle and the ACTUAL MEASURED tuning frequency of the port is very helpful. If you get the port tuning above the peak you are looking for, it will most likely be a bad thing, unless the box size is somehow off. . .I have seen it happen in one install. Port tuned to 58 Hz, output peaked at 54 Hz. If I was guessing, I would think a different size box and the correct tuning for the lower peak would have been even louder, but that is just my guess. That is why I like building loud street beaters. . .to maximize a fart box that is competitive now days is just too much time and work for me. I barely have enough time to build what I want to build. I like to design, build, take simple measurements, make adjustments as needed and go. . . Brian

Never built a fart box, but just thinking about box designs I do every day, you can really change the peak output you achieve by varying box size for a given port tuning, burp frequency, etc. If I do a quick comparision of the same sub in the same box volume with 2 different tuning frequencies, I get X output for one of them, and Y output for the other. If I make the box smaller for both of them (smaller but both still the same size), the peak output increases for the higher tuned box, but decreases for the lower tuned box. This is just random example, but it shows how box size and tuning work together if you want to achieve the highest possible burp score. I really do not see how manufacturers can even recommend anything but a starting point. . .There really is not a good final recommendation unless someone has already tested the same vehicle, same amount of power, same subs, same enclosure, etc. for your best burp score. Long story short - As it has been said many times - the only way to build a fart box is build, test, rebuild, test, . . . . keep going until you are happy with the results or you do not see anymore improvement.

PM sent. . .

Did you try emailing them? [email protected]

They are there now when I go to the website. . .

PM me your zip code if you do not already have the pricing. . .

What do you consider a lot of power? Much over 1000 watts, and the coil is not going to last long if you are not careful. . .

Yes. Don't need as much port area with aero's. And then less port area = shorter ports, so overall a nice savings on port displacement. 3.5 ft^3 tuned to 33 Hz with (2) 4" aeros cut to 16" long should work. Not sure how much difference you will hear. depends on the type of music you listen too and maybe the resonant freq of the vehicle.

Double the number of subs and double the power "should" gain you the 3-5 dB you are looking for. In theory, it will gain you 6 dB, but it rarely happens. Too many other factors to be a perfect world inside of a car. . .

Current box sounds about right. Are you saying to is "too big" for the car, or you think it is "too big" for the sub? If you want the smaller box, I would use a pair of 4" aero ports x 15" long.

There are a few factors that can affect the output from 2 ohms to 1 ohm. . .I would say worst case around 1 dB, best case is 3 dB. It will be a noticable difference. . . Brian

What day does the tracking number say Fi receive it?

0.7 and 1.4 are the DC resistance ratings of the coil. The impedance is 1 or 2 ohms. If you want to run the amp at 1 ohm, buy a dual 2 sub and run the coils in parallel. If you want to run it at 2 ohms, buy a dual 1 ohm and run the coils in series. BTL's will have no problem with that amp at 1 ohm. . . Brian

I still just have 5 subs, so I guess I am not going to make it

Wire from the + of each coil to the + on the amp (2 wires). Wire from the - on each coil to the - on the amp (2 wires).

It will be hidden in a cabinet, so it is going to get sanded and coated with bedliner spray. . .

Finally started building these after having the part for a couple of months! (2) 12" Fi X Series, Dayton 500 watt plate amp, 3.0 cuft each, 4" aero port tuned to 24 Hz. Should be a nice replacement for this guy's 10" MTX sub.

If that is (2) ports 3" wide x 21" high, that is 126 sqin of port area. Should be enough for pretty much anything you will be putting in 8 ft^3. Brian

Notice it says "This dual 2-ohm coil is a little stouter than our last coils." The sub was redesigned, so other changes could be made (if required) for the improvments to the coil. In the case of your IB sub, there were no other changes, so you can only get so much coil on the former and fit it in the gap correctly without rubbing.

Makes my door panels look like crap