edouble101

Here is the auxiliary battery mounted in the trunk Power and ground wires to battery Aluminum ground distribution block with electrical compound to help prevent aluminum to copper corrosion. Battery ground wire to frame sprayed with a frame coating Under hood wiring Idle voltage at battery under hood with engine running Idle voltage at auxiliary battery

Im tuned!

Any updates?

Awesome craftsmanship! Are you fabbing tubular a-arms?

Thanks for looking at my install hispls, I was hoping you would. Well the install is on my budget. There are definitley some different equipment choices that I would have chosen with more money. I did change a couple things since my first post. The Viper components are made by DEI. They no longer make them. The set is very nice and was quit expensive ($399/pr) when they first came out. The tweeter can be a tad harsh being that it is titanium but I can smooth that out. I will be powering them with the Boss Audio REV-665 bridged so they will be receiving around 100 watts each. The Eodus EX will powered by a Crescendo 1000c4 which can produce 250wrms @ 8ohm. The XCON will be powered by a Crescendo 3kwp which I will have adjusted accordingly. Hopefully by June I will have it all installed!!!!!!

Love'n all the pics

How is the amplifier ground? I would start with the big 3 in 4 gauge. I would also get the starting battery checked out and upgrade if needed. Is the 13 year old alt good? You can also add another run of 4 gauge to the amplifier if you feel that you need to. With this amount of power a auxiliary battery shouldn't be needed IMO.

Nice battery rack!

I like your wiring technique, looks good man! I probably wound have ran a straight shot of one wire instead of having all of those connections. Whats up with all the varying port angles? The initial port opening looks kinda tight.

I say......stay with Sundown. I see some refurb deals pop up. Or I have two Crescendo amps (3kwp and 1000c4). Their newly released lineup looks nice as well.

Browse the PartsExpress selection and read the reviews. That might be helpful to you.

Lantz I think that your knowledge base isn't deep enough yet to make informed decisions on vehicle electrical upgrades. Even asking a question like you did digs up even more issues you setup has. I highly recommend that you spend a considerable amount of time researching and reading about setups that have worked well for other people. Your question is too broad IMO to be covered thoroughly.

There are many DIY kits available, do a google search. The only real limitation is your soldering/electrical skills.

No volt meter is permanent. A volt meter can always be removed. The use of a volt meter with an altered electrical system in a vehicle is an excellent safety gauge. The placement of the volt meter within the electrical path is crucial IMO. Having a volt meter inline with the amplifier's power input is best IMO. I guess you do not have an engine temperature gauge in your car either?

I always try to spend my money wisely. I don't think I could ask anybody for anything for free. Download WinISD and design it yourself.

You should take this up with ca.com not ssa.com FYI Rule #1 about selling --> post pics with name and date

In dollars or levs? So what is the total cost of this project using these products? ^^ That question has been asked numerous times and has been avoided. I am guessing around $1000 considering my trunk alone was over $250.

I see. He is probably kicking your ass for using his lights for heat lamps lol

Whatcha doing with those Lowel lights?

Why doesn't anybody consider PR's?

If I was going to trim I would also heatshrink the end tight

I have been working a lot of overtime the past couple weeks so my free time now is at zero. Hence not much of an update. Our offer was accepted on a house and we close March 18th so now I really have no free time for awhile! But here is a 'lil something: The horns I recently bought do not fit for safety reasons. I only have about two inches of pedal clearance...damn it . Back to a three way. The waveguides are for sale. I ran my RCA's, turn-on and speaker cable on the passenger side. The door jam boot is a connector on the firewall side, totally unexpected. I had to run the speaker wire a different route through the door jam. Currently I only have the midbass wire ran. I was stunned to see that the doors were completely sealed from factory.

You can connect two channels together. You risk frying an output channel from your source. You will have sound but no where near sounding good. You would be much better off mounting two small speakers on the sides of your center console, if you really need to. My way of thinking is to do it right the first time. Taking short cuts often causes problems.

Did you mean Adire?

AA 7"?