edouble101

That car is very nice

You dont have to run a negative line from the front battery to the back. Just ground both bats to the frame (preferably sanded down to bare metal). As for the distribution block I think it would be easier to just ground both amps seperate and save the money the distribution block will cost for something else. I would think having multiple amplifier grounding points could cause a ground loop. I run a negative write from battery to battery as well. I also wire amplifiers directly to battery. Ground rear battery to chassis.

Thanks for your knowledgable input Impious. Maybe you could help me with my install, seriously. Excpect a PM

I'm not sure sure about that a lower gain setting provides more headroom. Simply because the gain knob is just for level matching. But if you can provide a link to the article I'll happily read it Proper setting will give you more amplifier headroom than if you had the gain setting mismatched. This doesnt make the amplifier make for power. You guys really need to rely on the internets for simple searches for information such as this. Research the topic from numerous reputable sources. Remember what may work for somebody else may not work for your equipment in your vehicle. <---- This is one reason you have to gather your information for multiple resources. Then come to your own conclusion. You can then apply your newly found knowledge to your situation and needs. What I say may not be true (I am only a machinist not an installer) that is why you need to research it and come up with your own opinion.... geez lol This was a quick search <5 minutes Level Setting by Richard Clark RaneNote - Setting Sound System Level Controls Amplifier Gain Controls by Eddie Runner SSA!!! Amplifier gains and preouts Head Unit Features carstereo.com - Read about RCA outputs Not all of it may apply to this topic but there are tid bits within the links that do. I have a beer exchange to go to now. I dont know what it is but it is all about beer

Hey thanks for explaining that to me. I understand much better, it makes sense too. Where can I find more detailed infromation about this, do you know? I understand what your saying, I would just like to read up on it, to burn time @ work, and learn a little bit lol. Check out David Navone and Richard Clarks's tech pages. Most of them are viewable online, I can't remember where. Maybe carsound or speakerworks. Also alot of info by doing a Google search.

Higher voltage HU's allow amplifier gain settings to be adjusted lower which will allow more amplifier headroom. If you have a strong input signal you can set your gain lower than if your input signal was weak. A lower gain setting allows for more dynamic headroom. What this means is that the amplifier can produce a cleaner output signal without clipping. Music has peaks and dips some peaks can be +3db stronger than others (0db signal). That 3db signal requires the amplifier to work much harder than baseline; often this is where clipping occurs. Just my very brief comment on a complicated subject.

You would have to drop the oil pan anyways to clear any shavings out. That's the time consuming expensive part if you have a shop do it. More than likely a crossmember is prohibiting the pan from easily being removed. Might not be an issue but it normally is.

Nice selection of tools you have there!! I am a tool junkie Good job with your router! Hmmmm....... Your sub enclosure looks awfully tight for those 15's. Resin, bracing and 45's can east a lot of space in an already tight box. Your ports look very close to the walls which may affect your tuning frequency. Hope your subs do not get choked with your box and a solid 3000wrms. You say your alt is running at 15.6v? That is way too high for those XS Power batteries. They insist that 14.7v max to insure battery longevity and performance. Did you check into that? At max current draw you might be approaching 900-1000 amps. You have two runs of 1/0 positive front to rear? If so that might not be adequate for your systems power demands. I would do four runs each of 1/0 positive and negative minimum. I am tuned in! Good luck man!

In dollars or levs? So what is the total cost of this project using these products?

Very interesting, thanks for posting!

Keep us posted. I hope your install turns out great!

Do you have the sub wired up? How does it sound?

I am curious... I work for GE Aviation. Not too sure where you are going with that comment. Oops... Forgot the "LOL" ... lol

I am curious... I work for GE Aviation. Not too sure where you are going with that comment.

Awesome! I am very excited to hear abut new SSA products. Can you give us any more information on this new design?

I realize that the xcon is rated for 1750wrms. My question was for upcoming an design for a +1750wrms subwoofer.

I keep reading tid bits of a SSA +1750wrms subwoofer in the works....

I am happy to see somebody is pleased with DC Power. I am expecting a 270XP as well......

Unfortunately that is the components set that I have and I want to make the best of it. I really want HLCD's but that definitely isn't in my budget any longer!

I didn't think about that yet.

Do you know where I can get information on the AA carbons? I am looking at a Peerless 6.5" and a Scan-speak 8". I have plenty of time to decide. i will be getting some t/s specs sent to my in my email that I can forward you or see If I can give them to a Mod on here to post and sticky if Fi/AA allows it. Thanks for the link but I am going to pass on these for now. Not much more! I am not planning on buying any additional amplifiers. I plan on using the Boss for the front stage. I am digging the Scan-speak 92db sensitivity!

Do you know where I can get information on the AA carbons? I am looking at a Peerless 6.5" and a Scan-speak 8". I have plenty of time to decide.

Yes I am seeking a more pronounced midbass. I am not convinced that it takes certain sized drivers to produce certain frequences. More research...... For conveince in mounting a 6.5" driver would be best for my application but I suppose I could get more output with a larger driver such as an 8".

Uhhhh.....mmm.....what? Lol Maybe I didn't write this thread clearly. I am seeking a three way setup for my front stage. - tweeter for high pass - midrange for midrange frequencies - woofer for mid bass frequencies I am thinking about using a 6.5" woofer simply to ease mounting and lower cost. Which 6.5" woofer do you recommend for my setup?

I could use 8's if that would ultimately be better. What is wrong with a 6.5" midrange used with a 6.5" woofer. Crossed over at different frequencies obviously.