edouble101

Nice write-up!

I have no idea. Just a guess based on manufacturer specs using similar parts. I am hoping for a qts suitable for passive radiator use. Even worse would to have them performing horribly. In that case I may tear them down and rebuild using different soft parts. It would have been much cheaper and probably of had better results buying a well designed subwoofer. I am enjoying this experience but I know the odds are against me

Thanks fellas. I am hoping to have these built within a week, we'll see.

Opinion.

I use this often. Thank you.

Hecks yes man! Thanks! I love pr setups ever since I heard my first Kicker dual 8" subwoofers with dual 10" pr that they used to sell. I got my baskets back today. Pictures do them no justice, they look awesome! Here are a few pics nothing is mounted/glued, parts are laid on the frames for pics. I was happy to see that my 0.50" ABS spacers will work. I needed more clearance between the top spider and the bottom of the cone for the collars to sit.

A few pics of soft parts. Coils (8 layer aluminum flat wire) and spiders. 12" aluminum Cones wiith 3" collars. TC Sounds 18" PR's these things are huge. The spiders are as big as the 12" cones.

I am making my first attempts at subwoofer building. I never reconed or built a subwoofer so I am learning as I go. Top priority for these subs is to have a low qts since I plan on using these with passive radiators. Suspension compliance is really a stab in the dark at best. The motors I am using are built by TC Sounds for Lightning Audio. They have a cool neodymium slug and a huge top and bottom plate. The baskets and cones are made by TC Sounds as well. The baskets accommodate six hole mounting points. I needed to drill mounting locations for the four hole motors. I sent the baskets out to be powder coated. I should have them back in the next couple days. The motors have a lot of steel in them. I think they need polished Before/After I am using the TC Sounds aluminum cones. With the TC Sounds 1" spider spacer there isnt enough clearance between the cone and the top spider. I cut my own 0.50" spacers out of ABS. I'll get more pics up soon!

That is strange looking. Are you sure both are xcons? From the product description "For those high power installs, the XCON runs 5 spiders in total: triple 8" progressive spiders, dual NOMEX spiders and triple flat sandwiched lead wires to handle all the abuse."

Either you know nothing about Sundown or you have a biased opinion that is not based on product purchase. I have a lot of experience with Sundown products. Not one of their woofers would I choose for a sound quality install. Sure sundown woofers can sound good in the right install, it doesn't mean they are a SQ driver Contradicting yourself there.

Those TC baskets are readily available to anyone that wants to buy them... Is this another hater thread or is there a point to this all?

The Z.4 series has all electrical traits of an SQ subwoofer. There are a lot of factors to consider before anybody can tell you that it is the best subwoofer for your install though. Very hard to give you a correct answer on this. I would continue using the HO 12 though. Wouldn't make much sense to spend more money and not get much if any difference.

Either you know nothing about Sundown or you have a biased opinion that is not based on product purchase.

Sears is having a hellva sale on the DieHards :) http://www.sears.com/automotive-batteries-car-batteries/b-1100206

Post em here! Sweet deal from Crescendo!!!!

that is going to look great

As always awesome video Mark

Keep in mind that anything you shove inside your door has the potential to get wet. Instead of attempting to dampen the door by stuffing it (this will minimally affect driver acoustics in a large area) try to cover any existing large holes. MLV and CLD treatment is good for this as well as blocking exterior noises. Here is a pic of CLD tiles covering car door holes: I prefer to make my speaker rings that I mount on car doors out of plastic cutting board material. This way if the mounting ring would get damp, which it can, it will not distort or deteriorate.

You need to get some coils on your page! Any chance of getting more cone options? Such as stitched surrounds, high roll? Also listing cone weight would be helpful.

Awe shit bigjon is itch'n for 160's

No more pics yet. I will be getting more once we meet up again to tune and redo some wiring. I'll get back to you on his review on the Seas. I don't think he has them tuned. What I recommended was reviewing his budget and install locations and planning from there. He spent a boat load of cash on the Seas without putting any thought into it. Luckily we were able to get them mounted easily in stock locations. If door/kick panel/a-pillar mods were needed I would have strongly suggested, even after buying the Seas, that we sit down and think about this before tearing into his car.

What does that dude have in his mouth?

I never seen pictures of this being done. I'd have it f'd up lol.

Obsidian Audio 10" V3 is spec'd out for super small enclosures. Port length is tricky in an enclosure that small though.

I am helping a buddy revamp his install. He was using a JL Audio component set for the font stage and JL Audio 12w6 subs powered by JL Audio Slash amps. He bought my P99RS from me and is now running active I gave him a quick four hour tune while drinking some beers and we got the JL's sounding really good. Good enough to be winning competitions but he wanted more. He bought a set of Seas components and is hoping for a better sound. I recommended a different route but this is what he choose. We have a lot to go yet on revamping his install. Here are a few pics of the Seas midrange install. Old MDF baffles that I told him had to go. I made new baffles out of cutting board. Unfortunately I didn't take pics of this step. I used my router with a circle jig to cut the baffles. The boards are 3/8" thick so we doubled up on them to get 3/4". I used hot glue to join the baffles and used ht glue again too seal them the to metal door and used four screws to fasten them. I applied gasket tape to seal the drivers to the baffles since the baffles flexed out of fat once being attached to the door. We are no done yet with this install, I will have to take more pics once we meet up next. His setup will be in the winners circle for 2014