edouble101

Sorry that the pics had gotten deleted. I was cleaning up my photobucket account and that must have screwed up the links. I had sold the Z.3 15" and AB amp. I am going to be running two IB315 and they will be powered by a Sundown SAZ-1500D v.3. I am thinking about bumping up the power on the front stage to two SAX-125.4. The front stage is loud now as it is but I would like more headroom and a little more power to the JL midbass. I cant say enough about the JL midbass. I currently have them high passed at 31.5hz and I could easily continue running without subs. They were never designed to function as a subwoofer and that is evident but they do sound great. I have been adjusting the low pass crossover setting on the ZR800. Bumping it up from 250hz to 315hz made a big difference in stage width. From 315-500hz the change was minimal. From 500-1.25khz the difference was unnoticeable. All I changed was frequency. The response of this driver is noted to be useful to 500hz. Without using an RTA in car I have not verified that but by ear that seems accurate. When I have time I want to measure frequency response with my RTA and see how it its behaving with these new crossover points. Conclusion... The higher xover on the midbass improved stage width Not as wide as I like but definite improvement! I think the next biggest improvement will be to isolate the midrange and tweeter from the dash corners by moving them up the a-pillar. This new installation will not be for a while yet. I am keeping the tweeters and switching the mids out to JL Audio 4" that was part of the ZR 3-way component system. What I like about this driver is that it has the same SD as my Tang Band 4"er but about an inch smaller in overall diameter. This is due to the fact that it really does not have a mounting flange. It has mounting tabs that are removable. These should fit in my a-pillars nicely. I have readjusted T/A. I always had my tweeter and midrange at the same T/A setting because they are mounted beside each other. I had my midbass drivers adjusted differently. I played with my midrange T/A and got them readjusted, same setting for the tweeter. I then was readjusting the midbass and to my surprise they are at the same level as the midrange/tweeter! Exact same setting! Wow. The soundstage has "spaciousness" that it never had before. Strange to me but it works. I am also running both of the midbass drivers out of phase with the other drivers. I am currently working on my sub bass install. No install pics but here are my subs.

Gut pics. Power side : Transistor in question RCA side

I am hoping to post the pics you need today. I had three tress go down, didn't have power for almost the entire week. When power did come back on I had emergency plumbing work to do, ugh. I am also in the midst of remodeling my house, room-to-room. I need a vacation.

That is how it is wired

That is tested as a mono channel, left/right bridged. It came with dual power leads. I asked ZED to solder the dual leads back in since a previous owner cut off one set. ZED said it drew 51a at max output and dual leads are unnecessary.

IIRC the 500a is rated at over 1Kw@4ohms. My amp was tested at ZED Audio and it put out 430w@4ohms at 1% thd. Based on that I have a 250c. From all the pics I have seen the 500a has speaker and power leads on opposing ends of the amp. My speaker and power leads are on the same side. Unfortunately ZED had no idea what amp (model) it is. I was told it is not upgradable.

As soon as I get my household restored from hurricane Sandy I will take the pics you want.

I did get mine repaired by ZED Audio. Shoot me a pm, I will take any pics that you want. I would like to sell this amp as well. Again pm me and we can work out those details if you are interested.

Those soft parts look nuts! I am anxious to see the completed drivers.

I might make the trip. Will there be an SQ competition as well?

What is the resting voltage of your battery? With the alternator plug connected does the belt squeal when you start the car?

Oh, it was impressive.Maybe it's just me but I found that I listened to the same tracks on OCD repeat. Stock stereo in Civic right now, and find that I've been able to actually enjoy the music, rather that the result of it, if that makes sense. How is your sub amp connected to your stock stereo? It looks as if you have a huge peak in your response that is only sounding good on certain songs that you are unable to tame.

Shoot me a PM too!

I wonder why he didnt reply to this thread when he was viewing It yesterday?

Why did you order them from SSA? Not to be negative but why did they think everything is free shipping. Most online retailers sell Sundown products with free shipping (included in price). As far as I know all Sundown prices are "shipped" prices. I never paid a seperate shipping fee on any Sundown products I bought. I think ssa is the only "store" that charges shipping on Sundown products.

I have that one too. Plus +20 more PPI amps.

1. Product: Precision Power ProMOS-450 2. Specs: Specs: 50wrms x 4 @ 4ohm 100 wrms x 4 @ 2ohm 200 wrms x 4 @ 1ohm 200 wrms x 2 @ 4ohm 400 wrms x 2 @ 2ohm Measurements 2.1" x 8" x 24" 3. Description/Condition: It is in very good shape for it's age. There appears to be very small dents in the heatsink that have been touched up by a previous owner. There are scratches on the bottom panel. I did my best to show this in the pictures. The seal is still intact on the bottom panel. 4. Price: : $500 shipped with insurance and tracking. I will ship no later than two days after payment. The shipping carrier will be FedEX. 5. Pictures:

SQ setup, IB in my trunk. Powering them with 1200-1500wrms.

The port (OMG the port!) and baffle look great! I can not wait to see this all tidy'd up!

I ordered my IB315's through Fi's website. The ordering process was very easy to navigate. I had contacted Fi Audio one time after ordering and I received a response within six hours. My subs were shipped by FedEx. They arrived at my doorstep efficiently packaged and unharmed. The subs have no scratches, paint chips, excess glue or any other abnormality. The build quality looks excellent without having any extra unneeded cosmetics.

When the bass boost is on your bass knob maybe adjusting the bass boost not the gain. If the bass boost is off the bass knob may only control the gain. Turn bass boost off and go from there.

If this is overwhelming for you or if you do not have the money and installation skills to use an active setup then buy a good component set. You can always adjust your low-pass setting for your subwoofer higher.

It CAN (not "likes") handle more power. I would put my money on the SSD being better in every way than the Sundown. Why is the SSD better in every way than a Sundown driver? Not any Sundown but the SD......in what way is it not better? The only advantages with the Sundown that I can see is that the SD would arrive sooner and costs less. For performance the SSD wins hands down. Have you used both drivers in a smiliar install to say that the SSD performs better? I havent.

It CAN (not "likes") handle more power. I would put my money on the SSD being better in every way than the Sundown. Why is the SSD better in every way than a Sundown driver?

The SA series has a pole vent. I wouldnt use that driver with your mounting depth. I would narrow my choice down to the SSD or SD-2.