edouble101

I see absolutely no point in having two volt meters. The only reason I monitor my volt meter is to make sure I am not killing my alt. If my voltage starts dropping into the sub 13's I back off the volume on my ZED RA. I would hate to fry the diodes in my alt. Voltage drop from front batt to rear batt is a constant. Measure once with a dvm for shits and giggles and thats that.

The factory JBL setup does look nice. Doc, stop back in here when it is all done and let us know how it sounds.

What is the goals and plans for the front stage?

Like I had mentioned the RS225 isn't a drop-in driver replacement in any car door that I know of. You will have much louder and pronounced midbass with the RS225 in an enclosure. Like I said the enclosure would need to be large. I think there are better driver's available for your needs. Check out this thread. There is a 4" shootout here. There are other threads similar to these as well, you have to search around. You should start first with deciding where you are going to mount drivers. Definitely doors?

Why are you putting them in your door? A three-way would have more benefit in a kick panel or a-pillar install. If vehicle modifications are a concern you could make small pods to sit in the comers of your dash. If that would be the route then I would probably choose a FR driver to minimize the size of the pods. I should back this up, what are your goals with your front stage?

Hopefully I get my Dayton Audio install done before you lol The RS225 will need a big ported enclosure to shine. I will let you know how they work in an AP install. Also the RS225 needs ~125wrms to really get it moving. The 7"er doesnt have the midbass impact as the RS225 but it is still another option. Crossover points will be best determined after you have mounting locations choosen. Driver mounting locations will be the biggest factor. I feel that the Fountek FR89EX would be a better FR driver than the Dayton 4"er Keep in mind that the sensitivity of these drivers is low and they do not handle much power. Your tweets and midbass could easily over power the 4" driver. Level setting will smooth that out but just FYI. It all comes down to mounting locations. Best to keep the tweet and mid very near each other.

It is addicting!

Why so? Shogen summed it up. Dayton Audio Titanic series would be an excellent option.

Thanks for the comments fellas. I gotta admit I am a little nervous to fire these up for the first time. I did no testing. Fail number 1. I pray they hit me in my head with midbass like I expect.

I prefer sealed enclosures for my home. Infrasonic freqs are of no concern then. I wouldnt use an SA-12 for home theatre either but thats just my opinion.

Nah man yours is bigger than mine lol. Not saying that they are not big but they really do not take away much area from the foot compartment.

Cut my mounting rings and homemade grills. Both sides are cut this is only one side. I glued the rings to the baffles. I used clamps them and also have the screws that will hold the midbass driver to the baffle screwed in for additional pressure. I am doing on side at a time but both mounting rings are installed. Fiberglass mat laid out, First layer on the driver's side is being cured now.

I think what he meant was that a low ssf setting won't "burn" the leads, BUT his ssf is still way too low. Meaning he didn't burn the leads because of the ssf setting but either way he should adjust it so he doesn't have other problems down the road. I could be misinterpreting what was said though. Yep that's what I was saying. I thought it was clear, oh well, thanks.

This build is looking great. Very anxious to see it completed.

I have a single Z.3 18" powered by a DD M3a. Box is a tad under 6 cubes tuned to 29hz. It sounds fantastic playing any genre of music. I have not had it metered but I know it is well over 140.

Even with a subsonic filter set an octave lower than tuning I do not understand how that could lead to tinsel leads burning. Other soft part failure would be more likely IMO. From the experiences of others in this thread it maybe safe to say that it was indeed a design flaw from the manufacturer. I would contact Sundown. I would set your SSF at 30hz regardless.

Ah man you figured it out. Joking.

After this car is done I am going to get an SUV mostly for winter driving and hunting. But it is going to be an SPL vehicle. Shits going to get nuts

Z's are amazing. Tremendous output and excellent sq. There is a guy in Russia doing 163.8 with two stock 18" Z.3 Yep yep as soon as it's done I will come down your way I cant wait to see these motors on Sundown's new baskets. I am going to finish my front stage first. It is going to be bitter sweet to rip the 18" out. Everybody that sees it is like "what the fuck" in amazement lol

The wall is coming together nicely Mmmmmmm I love me a good burger...

Thanks X2!

Thanks Rick. I wanted to make the mounting rings today but unfortunately I snapped my 1/8" drill bit and can not mount my router jig now Need to get another drill bit! Got my 15" today. Z.3's!

I will probably be externally regulating it anyways. You will need to have it sent back to Mechman for an external regulator setup.

I mounted the mid bass baffles today. They are screwed to the body of the car and I used expanding foam to seal them off. I believe they are sealed well now but I am also sure I will have small leaks that I will need to address after the mid bass speakers are installed. After I make the mounting rings and will be able to finish the baffles completely. I also laid down CCF and MLV in the rear. Expanding foam trimmed. I cut my own carpet (acoustically transparent). I am doing it in two pieces to make it easier. It looks pretty shitty in this pic but after mounted the amps and seats it looks pretty good.

The alt has an internal regulator set at 14 volts. I had issues with an aftermarket alternator. My vehicles PCM wasn't able to control the voltage. I wired up an external regulator and bypassed the PCM and it works perfectly.