edouble101

JL is releasing something new in Jan '12. I am anxious to see what it is. Fi, Sundown, T3 Audio, DC Audio (to name a few) all make a great products too.

No doubt man. I am currently using a 13W6 and it is a great sub. Shakes the car when it should and blends in beautifully with the front stage. I had an XCON 15 in a large enclosure with a 3000W amp. I wanted some cargo area back so I switched up to the 13W6 in an enclosure half the size powered by a 600W amp. Love'n the JL setup.

x2 or the time limit to view each photo in the slideshow should be a little bit longer If you left click on the picture it will go full screen and stop the sideshow. I will make the interval shorter between pictures. Thanks guys!!!! I want more comments like this!!!!!

Thanks for the comments guys. I do agree that it isnt "smartphone" ready. Any critical critisim is greatly appreciated. Hey Mark, keep me in mind fire next year!

I finally got my website up that I designed myself. Eventually I want LFNT Designs to design my site but this is a start!!! Please let me know what you think. www.ericclarkphotography.com

Didn't buy shit. Everything I want isnt on sale

Nice to see another excellent build log by sefugi!

Two IB318 was my original plan. Once I looked at the specs and saw how larger the vas was I didn't think it would be optimal for two in my trunk. Your car is only ~13" longer than mine, height is 4" less, width and wheelbase are the same. How big is your trunk? I searched the web to find the cargo capacity for a 1995 Olds Cutlass Cierra but could not find anything.

My number one choice is two 18w6 sealed in about 4^3ft. The IB318 is another one of my options if the 18w6's do not come through. I am looking at many options and picking the best one for my goals. I do want to maximize my subwoofer setup for SQ, if it gets decently loud too that will be a plus!

I am thinking of using a single IB318 IB in my trunk. My trunk space is 14.2^3ft. The vas of the driver is 381l which is nearly the same volume as my trunk. Is the IB318 too big for my trunk to run IB? I have read that the overall volume of the trunk space should be three times the vas of the driver(s) in an IB setup.

Sorry about that man

I mistakenly re-posted a topic. Here is the original thread.

Thanks 95Honda. You cleared alot of misunderstanding. I will be buying some of that wire this week. Sounds like you have a great job. I am a CNC machinist, same shit everyday for the most part. You can even apply your job experiences to car audio

Ah Ha! Now I am, starting to get good information! Thanks again for sharing your knowledge on this subject. Ok. So the mic cable does not have a drain wire? It is only a twisted two conductor with shield, correct? Does it look like this? Thank you for your help, I really appreciate it.

Wow there are some bad ass trucks there. Amazing custom work. Any more pics of the blue Blazer? Love'n the S-10 rat!

It does not have a shield it only has a stranded drain wire. The wires are not copper. I just noticed that the product description says it has a foil shield but it doesnt. Here is a pic of the wire that I had taken during assemble of the RCA interconnects. Dayton Audio makes a great product. I actually have a couple $$$ of their divers in my closet. I will definitely check out their wire. Do you use the Dayton Audio MLI 22/2 Mic/Line Cable? Do you cut off the foil shield or solder it with the ground/drain at the source end?

You are using the same type of materials that I have been using. What is the model number for the cable you use? I have been using Gepco 61801EZ. It does have a drain wire and I only solder that to the RCA plug at the source end. I am using P3 RCA connectors that have worked well. Thanks for your reply.

Good deal guys! I never thought I would see SSA products at a discounted price. Cool chit! The SSA products are not discounted, just a kick back for buying an SSA product. I said that referencing to the discounted product on your next purchase.

If I can build it I will. That is how I am with everything, car audio related or not. I enjoy tinkering with anything. When I was a young boy my father used to bring home old repeater equipment from his job so I could tear it apart. No need to buy my toys, just give me a screwdriver and a piece of electronic equipment. Yep I was that kid that took an electrical socket apart when I was 3 The Dayton RCAX-AU Audiophile Locking RCA Connector are $21.78 for two pair. That costs more than all the RCA's in your car? BTW my current DIY RCA's cost me $13.55 for 10' for all the materials. I am discovering various methods and components that I can use to achieve the best sound in my vehicle that I can afford. I am looking at every aspect. RCA cables is one of them. For those people that are happy with out of the box RCA's then obviously DIY cables aren't for them. I have read many topics about unbalanced RCA cables. Some say that if the cables is functioning properly you will not be able to hear the difference from a low cost cable to a more expensive one. Other, mostly home audiophiles, claim that various RCA cables do sound different. My own debate is weather or not a two conductor cable is any different sounding then a coaxial cable when used for a unbalanced RCA signal. I know the application and design differences between the two. Unfortunately I do not have the test equipment to make a factual comparison. I suppose the biggest difference will be in the shielding. The two conductor is not shielded (that have) and the coaxial is. I currently use unshielded two conductor wire with a drain wire. This particular wire is designed for a balanced signal. The noise floor in my car is extremely low. In fact I can not hear any noise in my system. Will coaxial cable make a difference in the sound I plan on doing a test using my home audio with these two cables. It will be much easier to swap cables at home then in the car.

I love all of your product photos and graphics

Good deal guys! I never thought I would see SSA products at a discounted price. Cool chit!

I was thinking the same thing. Looks like you might need to pick yourself up a used armor plated vehicle "BULLET RESISTANT STEEL - Provided by one of the major suppliers of this material. All levels of protection with certifications." I wonder if their level of protection and certification covers four 18" subs lol Also, if this is tearing apart steel think about what it is doing to your ears

X1,000,000,000,000,000 I say to carpet the false floor the same color as the factory carpet. I would also do some kind of plexi inlay to product the amps/processor.

I currently use DIY interconnects in the form of a twisted pair with drain wire terminated with soldered RCA ends. This has worked very well for my current setup and has been fairly cheap. Although, the twisted pair is more likely used for a balanced signal then an unbalanced signal (all my runs are unbalanced). I have been researching various interconnect methods and their craziness. I have noted form numerous sources that coaxial interconnects are better suited for unbalanced signals. From what I gathered, using coaxial cable in the vehicle environment can be expensive and difficult. The difficulties arise with inflexible cabling and long RCA ends. I can image the troubles I will have trying to route coaxial cable behind my head unit. The expensive will come come from the tools needed to properly connect the RCA ends to the cable. For instance, Canare RCA ends are ~$9, the tool and die set will run me about $190! I can use solder RCA ends which I believe will drastically reduce cost. But I am not sure if soldered ends on coaxial cable will diminish the purpose of coax cable to begin with? I am thinking about using Canare L-3CFW Series cable. It is a 22awg solid copper conductor cable with dual braided copper shields. I realize that skin-effect should minimal regardless if I use stranded or solid. I am looking at all specifications and trying to pick the best cable. Based on the specs the inductance is relatively low and so is the capacitance. For cable termination I am considering Dayton RCAX-AU Audiophile Locking RCA Connector. I use silver solder. Does anybody have any thoughts on using coaxial interconnects for car audio? Thoughts on Canare L-3CFW Series cable? Thoughts on Dayton RCAX-AU Audiophile Locking RCA Connector? I will not spend ridiculous amounts of money on cabling. If you have built your own coaxial cable interconnects I would love to hear the materials you used.