Tirefryr

If you have to ask that question, you have no business messing with 5K. Hell, you shouldn't be playing at all.

Fuck a duck with a semi truck.

Happy Berfday Nick!

Fuel injection runs at high pressure.

Hot glue should work.

PM Aaron or Mark. Do NOT link that shithole here again.

You could use that, but I just meant a gauge you can just screw on to the schrader valve and leave it on there.

It should cut power if the engine is not running. Of course, marine programming could be different, but it should sense no spark or no exhaust and cut fuel as well. An automobile is the same way. ever notice if you just turn your key to the on position, you will hear your pump prime for a second or two, but it won't actually run until the vehicle is running. I read differently on the marine, but am doubting the source. Any idea how to separate fuel pump from the control for it to check which is bad? *assuming it's a fuel concern Also, I assume that even when it dies there should be pressure in the fuel rail no? Meaning that if I check and there isn't any it is either the fuel pump control circuit or the fuel pump. Obviously if it won't restart then I can check for pressure, but would love to try to isolate before getting to that. Yes, it will still be pressurized. If you can, pick up a pressure gauge and install it on the fuel rail. Check the pressure when you notice it start acting up. YOu should have a schrader valve you can place it on with no adverse effects. Will do. Found a bad oil pressure sensor. Not the one for the gauge, but the one for the ECU. Intermittent though. Unplugged it which fooled the ECU to thinking it's ok and the boat ran fine for an hour at WOT. Never heard of an ECU pulling fuel when it see's no oil. Is that possible? And no, was too stupid to reconnect the bad sensor and drive to see if she shut off. Will do later in the week though. Figure I am nearing 1/4 tank so I'll yank the cover, run her almost dry, suck it all out, replace the filters and add fresh gas. That will guarantee it isn't gas. Also will pull the gas vent line and make sure it has no water in it. Gets TOO close to the water when surfing so if the previous owner surfed a bunch there could be some wet. I don't have enough ballast to get there yet... Bad sensors can do very weird things. My Explorer was running like it was not getting enough fuel and it turned out to be a bad coolant temp sensor. It just depends on their temperment. It should cut ignition which will cause the fuel pump to stop anyways, but it's either open or closed so you should just shut off, not have the issues you are having. Anything is possible though, so I would replace the sensor no matter what.

Your options are only limited to what your mind can conceive. Something like that looks like some plastic pipe that was cut and somehow secured to the pillar. You could do something as simple as route some wood out as thick and deep as you need, paint or cover it and screw it to the pillar.

It should cut power if the engine is not running. Of course, marine programming could be different, but it should sense no spark or no exhaust and cut fuel as well. An automobile is the same way. ever notice if you just turn your key to the on position, you will hear your pump prime for a second or two, but it won't actually run until the vehicle is running. I read differently on the marine, but am doubting the source. Any idea how to separate fuel pump from the control for it to check which is bad? *assuming it's a fuel concern Also, I assume that even when it dies there should be pressure in the fuel rail no? Meaning that if I check and there isn't any it is either the fuel pump control circuit or the fuel pump. Obviously if it won't restart then I can check for pressure, but would love to try to isolate before getting to that. Yes, it will still be pressurized. If you can, pick up a pressure gauge and install it on the fuel rail. Check the pressure when you notice it start acting up. YOu should have a schrader valve you can place it on with no adverse effects.

It should cut power if the engine is not running. Of course, marine programming could be different, but it should sense no spark or no exhaust and cut fuel as well. An automobile is the same way. ever notice if you just turn your key to the on position, you will hear your pump prime for a second or two, but it won't actually run until the vehicle is running.

Our dryers have huge exhaust blowers on them and they are on a hinged door for lint cleanout. We have pneumatic actuators on the doors to lock them in place. Well, the dryer operators occasionally remove the air lines to open the doors and clean the blower wheel. They never understand that line is under pressure and it's poly, so it's pretty slick. It never fails, every time they remove the line, it blows out of their hands and smacks them in the face. We'll call each other on the radio to gather round every time we see one reaching for the line. It's quite amusing.

They are built to order. Once in a blue moon there is stock. This is one reason prices are kept low. Keeping inventory on hand raises prices. Overhead is a bitch.

Been doing it since I was a young boy in my dad's body shop. Ask Adrian how he likes it.

you can replace the boot if you didn't wait too long. if you don't have a "clicking" noise when you turn then it's all good. It's a molded boot. You won't be able to find a replacement as they don't make them. They will for ball joints. The tie rod end should be fairly cheap anyways, so just buy a new end. sounds good, they're pretty cheap. is there any special procedure to the replacing the tie rod end to preserve the aliment? Make a measurement of how long it is now, and when installing the new one, make sure it matches.

Like I said. . .

you can replace the boot if you didn't wait too long. if you don't have a "clicking" noise when you turn then it's all good. It's a molded boot. You won't be able to find a replacement as they don't make them. They will for ball joints. The tie rod end should be fairly cheap anyways, so just buy a new end.

I would introduce you, but she's camping out under my balls.

While his deck may or may not have it it, the pico wad used throughout all models, not just the Avic units.

I've had the L7 and just about every subwoofer ever produced by the GOOD internet companies. If I had an unlimited budget, I'd be running a well known, mass produced subwoofer. You have to make compromises and only YOU will know what you like. You may have everyone on this forum vote for the Icon. When you buy one and install it, you may find you don't like it at all. That doesn't mean everyone was wrong, just means you didn't agree. For what you have listed for requirements, I can say either sub will do that. Those that say the L7s sound like shit, well, I will just leave it at that.

I can't stop thinking about beef stew.

I want a car that goes fast, my options are every fast car. Which one should I choose? See where I'm going with this?

It shouldn't have been pressurized with the car off. The degas bottle should bleed all the pressure off.

GM has been doing this for almost 20 years now.

It should be slotted for a normal 1/4 or 3/8 straight blade screwdriver as well.