pmureika

Nice truck!!

One of the best sq subs around, but can get loud!

That york will work for air, but not the new style compressors that depend on oil circulating with the freon.

My mids are in the doors close to the kick panels.

So dash mounting in the oem location wouldn't be the best.Are you woofers in the dash, if not then that should easily answer your question no

So dash mounting in the oem location wouldn't be the best.

No A/C compressors will pump oil out with the air. I think that would be bad for the shocks.

I like the way the stock location sounds. I would need to remove the dash to install them.

Okay right now that would be the dash or next to the mids.

The most I would like to do is drill a hole in the door panels or I can get adapters to mount them in the factory location. Which is the dash.

They are in the dash next to the a pillars.

They are crescendo cz-6.5 comps with silk dome tweeters. I will be using the passive crossovers that came with them. Factory location are in the dash.

Is it better to install the tweeters in the dash or somewhere else? For a component set of speakers.

Oddly, I am the same. When it's Fedex you're like "hell yah", but when it's UPS youre more like "I hope my shit ain't broken" lol I have the more damage with fedex then UPS.lol

+1 For jay-cee. DD-1's are for how to set gains for dummies.

Have a good one!

Like it for what?Because you don't have to use your brain! And all the pretty lights.

A 25 dollar dmm would do the same thing.

I hope the new version coming out will be even better.

He didn't answer the question if they could take the power you want to give them. Without being damaged!

I agree; thats precisely why I want to know this sub limits. You're asking a loaded question though. Whether or not the sub can take 20hz at full power depends completely and totally on the enclosure design. Every driver has a rated xmax and aside from testing the only way to see that you don't exceed it at a given frequency is to model it. Keep in mind that EVERY change you make to an enclosure alignment compromises something else it does. Making an enclosure that allows full power handling at 20hz would likely kill it's response on the upper bass frequencies, or kill power handling at those frequencies, or simply hinder the output capabilities. The next question is why the hell are you worried about what it can do at 20hz? Unless you're using it for home theater you'll never REALLY have a need to play it that low in the first place. Music, even edited music, just doesn't go that low. On top of that you're modeling the enclosure as being tuned at 35hz per your original post. No matter what sub you choose it's going to unload below that and get destroyed in a big hurry. The reason I am asking is directly related to the fact that I will be tuning the enclosure at 35hz, so at 20hz it will be practically free air however I wont have a subsonic filter to avoid damage on low frequencies so if a certain song happens to have a 20hz tone at some point I dont want to worry about any damage to the speaker. The sub will have 1000w rms; and Ive had other subs in the past that handled more than 1000w rms on free air without bottoming out. I just want to see if someone has pushed this sub to those limits. I agree; thats precisely why I want to know this sub limits. You're asking a loaded question though. Whether or not the sub can take 20hz at full power depends completely and totally on the enclosure design. Every driver has a rated xmax and aside from testing the only way to see that you don't exceed it at a given frequency is to model it. Keep in mind that EVERY change you make to an enclosure alignment compromises something else it does. Making an enclosure that allows full power handling at 20hz would likely kill it's response on the upper bass frequencies, or kill power handling at those frequencies, or simply hinder the output capabilities. The next question is why the hell are you worried about what it can do at 20hz? Unless you're using it for home theater you'll never REALLY have a need to play it that low in the first place. Music, even edited music, just doesn't go that low. On top of that you're modeling the enclosure as being tuned at 35hz per your original post. No matter what sub you choose it's going to unload below that and get destroyed in a big hurry. The reason I am asking is directly related to the fact that I will be tuning the enclosure at 35hz, so at 20hz it will be practically free air however I wont have a subsonic filter to avoid damage on low frequencies so if a certain song happens to have a 20hz tone at some point I dont want to worry about any damage to the speaker. The sub will have 1000w rms; and Ive had other subs in the past that handled more than 1000w rms on free air without bottoming out. I just want to see if someone has pushed this sub to those limits. I have to call complete and total BS on that one. First of all you don't have any idea how much power you were really applying to those drivers, you didn't measure it. Even if you did the results would be dubious at best. Second, even if the sub were to take the power without bottoming out I guarantee you're stressing the spiders and surround so badly that it won't last long doing that to it. If you don't have a sub sonic filter on the amp then buy one, at least something like a Harrison Labs FMOD. You should not run a ported enclosure without an SSF no matter what driver you're using. Doing so is plain and simply asking for it to get damaged. Thanks for the good reply Alton.

Push any sub beyond it's limits and you will cause damage.

Welcome