Deto1992

I asked the rep how the company would deal with the product not meeting expectations and whether they would compensate me at all if it did not perform as expected. His response: "We test each unit before shipping. The alternator must meet those specs at a minimum. They very often can be 10 - 40 amp over the ratings we advertise." Any thoughts?

Any thoughts about response? Could this indicate that the product is legitimate?

so what do u think is better the 15 inch or 2 12 " subs? Go with the two 12s. They have the cone area advantage so, in theory, they should have more output. how much power should i feed the 2 12" However much makes you happy. If you are running with stock electrical, dont expect to safely run enough to power two high output drivers. Im running a single 1600w at 1 ohm amp and my lights were dimming severely before I installed a new battery.

"Our 200 amp alternator will produce 120 amp at idle. Our prices are lower than our competition and we know this. It does not cost that much to upgrade from the stock 125 amp factory alternator that you currently have in your vehicle to our 200 amp unit so we won't add a lot of money if it is not justified. We have a one year warranty on our alternators. We are not looking to get rich off of each alternator sale, however, we will be raising prices soon to reflect higher costs on our end for copper and fuel. Let us know if you have any other questions. Thanks for the inquiry" Im impressed so far. I understand that these words can be empty to a degree but I do not think he wouldve replied if he did not feel that his product was legitimate. I understand that 120 amps at idle is nothing special but my current factory alt is a 100amp so this would be a solid upgrade and, for $285, it seems like a good idea.

Its an 01 infiniti i30 and I emailed customer service from qualitypowerauto requesting more information.

Im not necessarily in need of a high output alt right now; however, I would like to make the purchase while I have some funds so I dont end up screwin myself over later on if I decide to upgrade the system. I know that many on the forum will recommend DC power, Mechman etc. but I rather not spend $600 on an alt if possible. After searching around the web for a bit I came across qualitypowerauto.com. I searched my specific vehicle and noticed that they have an option of a 200 amp alt for $285, an unbeatable price as far as I know. My question is, could it be possible that this is a legitimate alternator and wont turn out to be a waste of money? The websites notes that the company actually builds the alternators and that they require 5 days before shipping to do so. Other than the price, because it is so low, all signs suggest that the company is legitimate. I would really appreciate it if anyone could chime in and let me kno if they have had any experience with the site or any thoughts in general about it. Thanks!

so what do u think is better the 15 inch or 2 12 " subs? Go with the two 12s. They have the cone area advantage so, in theory, they should have more output.

They were fucktarded. Coming from the same person that would say "your wasting a Ferrari if your not driving it over 160." I have a pair of xcons that will be on a 1500watt amp, that's 750watts before imp rise to each driver that is rated for 1750. madnesss!! that wont get them "moving"...

Dont listen to people when it comes to audio anything unless you are certain that they know what they are talking about because, most of the time, they dont.

shitt man what a bummer. Careful around those surrounds though wouldnt wanna scuff up such a pretty sub

Are you going to show him up? lol I plan to make the man tap out. If not watch his face cringe. =P Never herd of BTLs and his idea of an spl sub is a W7 hes in for a rude awakening. Very nice haha be sure to make a video of his reaction. i want to see it, for sure. Hellll yeaa man

haha ill try not to get smacked in the face then. Maybe ill drop the back seats down and try to locate the noise more specifically.

Great opportunity to discuss treating trunks. What problems are you trying to resolve? As far as I know, the only problem I have is my trunk lid resonating. I dont know if you are familiar with this particular type of trunk but I have two bars running from side to side which are involved in the lid opening so I cannot remove them. They are small metal bars (diameter 1/2" tops) which are creating most of the noise. In addition, the actually trunk lid is rattling quite a bit. I planned on lining 25% of the the trunk lid with Cld tiles like you recommend but I am not sure of the right solution to deaden the two bars. Any help is appreciated ! You can take the springs out and replace them with gas shocks. It's fun, but probably more than you want to do. There's a good chance that they are rattling against each other where they cross. If that's the case, wrapping one in a thin layer of foam should take care of it. What is the trunk lid rattling against? If it's the lower layer of sheet metal rattling against the outer skin, a few dabs of RTV silicone will keep them from making contact. Its definitely rattling, against what I do not know for sure. However, I do not think the bars are making contact because there is about an inch of separation between the two. I will have to try and figure out where exactly the rattling is coming from; its just a bit difficult because to know for sure because the rattling decreases significantly when the trunk is open.

Should be glorious once you get the woofass in there! What drivers did you have before? if you dont mind me asking

Hmm well 180 dbs is pretty high since it is just under the world record if Im not mistaken. Id owe you a handshake if you could pull it off

For batteries, go with the Deka 9a31. Im currently running 1600w by means of a hifonics brutus and I have a stock 100 amp alt with a single 9a31 and I dont drop below 12.8v (<-pretty impressive if you ask me). No offense at all but, if this is your first install, you should see if there is someone on the forum or an experienced friend who can help you out. Its very easy to screw something up and the last thing you want is your car going up in flames over a install error.

Happy Birthday mann!

Great opportunity to discuss treating trunks. What problems are you trying to resolve? As far as I know, the only problem I have is my trunk lid resonating. I dont know if you are familiar with this particular type of trunk but I have two bars running from side to side which are involved in the lid opening so I cannot remove them. They are small metal bars (diameter 1/2" tops) which are creating most of the noise. In addition, the actually trunk lid is rattling quite a bit. I planned on lining 25% of the the trunk lid with Cld tiles like you recommend but I am not sure of the right solution to deaden the two bars. Any help is appreciated !

Hey Don, Im in desperate need of some deadening materials for my trunk. Ive decided on purchasing a bunch of the cld tiles but I am not sure how many I would need and whether the tiles are the only materials I will need to successfully deaden my trunk. I know it is a fairly hard situation for you to help me with since deadening is usually vehicle specific but I would much rather purchase all the materials at once rather than make several small purchases.I would appreciate any info you could give me that will help me wth my purchase.

D1 is a dual 1 ohm voice coil. Btw I cannot be certain, nor can anyone else, that one Btl 12 will have more output than the two L7s. Therefore, you would be better off going with two Bl 12s which, in the right enclosure, will have more output than your L7s.

Have you gotten your battery/ies yet? If not, you should get on thatt because it will definitely help your electrical situation until you get your alt. I had some trouble with dimming not too long ago so I bought a deka 9a31 and stuffed it under my hood and I have no issues at all anymore. Btw, the 9a31 is a 100ah battery so its pretty beefy;i suggest get a nice size xs batt maybe a d3400 or something similar for now if you havent yet.

Second on the DC Power , hell my lights dim sometimes and I have 8 batteries and 2 DC Power 270XP alts and not dropping below 14 volts........sometimes you just gotta live with it. damnnn dude. I cant stand dimming; i couldnt imagine having to live with it even despite havin upgrades to the extent that you do!

You cant just join a forum and throw a vague question up and expect quality answers. Do some research and make your own decision. If you have a more sophisticated question after doing some homework then, by all means, ask.

Check your voltage. You may have a faulty alternator but I still cant imagine that your electrical is suffering from a single t10001bd and t600-4. Must be a small mistake with your install.