kjmass21
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Everything posted by kjmass21
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I can say that I dont use psi products, not because there is anything wrong with them but because ive had no need too, yet. I do have a few friends that run their recones and I have seen them perform very well. I can say yes, going with a recone from the original manufacturer would be the best bet but unfortunately some have rediculously long turn around times, some have rediculous prices. If it was not for psi pricing and speed they would probably not be used as prevalently as they are. As for stealing parts and designs I wouldnt advertise that info unless you have actual proof. As for me, I have no problem with their products. If it fits your budget and you want to run it, go for it. If you find out you dont like it you can always sell it and try something else. -
I got to see this beast in action yesterday. It made an unexpected appearance at meca finals az and put up a 158.1 to win m5. Definitely a monster of a system.
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You will be fine. A single run of 1/0 full spec copper will support over 300 amps of current. A single run of 4/0 even CCA on a 220a would be more than sufficient.
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The DD's will shut off in the mid 15's but will keep going even dropping into the high 9's.The NS-1's are nice but are power hungry, you would need a big battery bank and quad alts to run 30 seconds on them. Hopefully end of this month we'll be able to post up some results with the NS-1 on 14v, just waiting on another alt and more batteries.
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I can say I've had no issues with my mechman alt. I've had mine installed for 6months without a problem. No belt changes, no adjusting, put it in, 7 minute install all done. Their customer service was great. I was told 2 weeks from order due to out of stock part, it arrived 4 days after I ordered it. I would reccomend mechman based off my personal experience, enough so I'm ordering a second one this week for my vehicle.
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Will did a 57 flat meca style with mic at the headrest
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if you have a vehicle with a full frame running front and rear batteries to the same frame rail is fine. If it is a unibody vehicle I would recommend the same number of ground runs between batteries as positive runs. As for fuse types the only time I've seen an advantage to running many smaller fuses over one large one is in competitions to get more surface area for fuses to stay in a lower fuse class but with higher power, if you're just ground pounding larger fuses are fine. If you're curious about the different fuse types I would just buy whatever is readily available near you.I prefer anl fuses and afs fuses, also kown as mini anls, but most places don't stock afs fuses.
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Running an additional ground for your alternator isnt going to hurt anything so if you have the extra 1/0 go for it. I would suggest a second run of positive between batteries and fuse them according to the current draw the wire is rated for. The only place you need to fuse for the amp rating is the runs to the amp. The fuses between batteries is to protect the wires and batteries. Everyone may not agree but i suggest fusing both sides between the batteries preferably as close to the batteries as possible.
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I cant tell you exactly because we never clamped my amp but i had a stetsom 5k2e, but daily driving with a mechman 270 and 3 kinetic hc-1400's my voltage rarely dropped below 13.7. When burping at high volume and tone voltage would drop into the low 12's with truck at 1800rpm. i do own an ns-1 and can tell you it is way bigger than the 5k but i haven't installed it yet so i cant compare its performance.
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From personal experience with the Stetsoms I would tell you that everyone is right. They are very sensitive to voltage drops. If the voltage drops too much too quickly you will fry the input section of the amp. If you have sufficient battery back up and can hold a fairly steady voltage of over 12 volts they are awesome amps. If you can hold them over 14 they make a ton of power. I would suggest if you get the Stetsom you would want their 2:1 connectors to carry enough current for the amp. Based off the Russian tests of the NS-1 the triple inputs are needed as the amp is capable of making more than 9K on 14 volts, and over 900 amps of current draw.
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I was thinking about it but I fear if I wash the dirt off the truck might fall apart.
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All goes to plan and you'll be hearing from me in the summer for a couple more.
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I believe this event has been moved to Sunday the first of April.
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Ill take some video of other music and post it soon.
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I can only speak from my own experience but the 9500's I've heard and my Z all have sounded good on music. The 9512 sounded better overall then my 18's have, but the 18's murder on the lows.
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I agree but the Z is a musical sub, performs great on music but also has the ability to take a ton of power of higher frequency burps. To give you an idea the box its currently in is tuned at 27 Hz and I have no problems with the sub.
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For anyone who thinks the DD Z subs are burp only. Powered by a Stetsom 5K only seeing roughly 3K in this video.
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I was going to put this up months ago but never got around to it. Factory is on the left Mechman on the right New unit installed, fit perfect no modification needed. Months later everything still working perfect.
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That box and the whole install look awesome.
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I don't have any experience with the dc amps but the dd is beast, and dd has excellent customer service.
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Great score but I would have to agree that that voltage drop seems pretty excessive for the stated electrical.
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Any chance there will be any 5x or 6x ones made?
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I just know what I got told when I ordered mine. I would have prefered to order a 6 inch coil if able but I was told they couldn't make it work, somethig about coil rock issues.
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Actually when I ordered my z18 I asked about the 6" coil and was told they scrapped the idea because they couldn't make it work
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Dd scrapped the idea of a 6 in coil a while ago, they just keep the picture up cause it looks cool