sundownz

1.0 is what we suggest for them - I would stock to that.

Excellent

It would not be allowed in the 0-1000 class -- if it was then, IMO, the entire rating system would be more of a joke than it is now. In terms of selling the amp to the general population rating a 6500+ watt amp for 4000 @ 1 ohm also wouldn't encourage buying it. In any event... we've been tweaking the ratings, manual, etc... final manual ratings : 6500 @ 1 ohm 3300 @ 2 ohm 1800 @ 4 ohm We rate our amps at 12.8v -- the NS-1 as with other amps will exceed it's ratings. It would fit in classes denominated by 1800-watt

We are a tad backed up -- phone # can be looked up online and was posted. If you do call DO leave a message.

The v.3 was a solid "SQL" type driver -- eg: high linear excursion / good parameter set for a nice response + also very tolerant to abuse. The v.4 Mag was an SQ driver XBL^2 enabled and fairly shallow. The BM MK3 was an ultra shallow driver also with XBL^2

The coil cannot move around in any way with our described shim method

Okay, we will do a dust cap one soon.

If you purchase a basket we will send terminals with it. The new big terminals work best with the new frames as well due to the size of the hole for terminal mounting.

Starting a thread on this based on some questions we've had... any further inquiries post them up and we'll see about getting some photos up. So... any re-cone questions post them up. ----- 1) New large wire terminal installation : It is critical to have this facing the correct direction -- otherwise the cone and spider can batter the tab and break it off. You can also experience mechanical noise if they are not aligned in this manner. * These new terminals fit much larger wire. * The black terminal is incorrect -- the red terminal is correct and set out to the side. * To install the leads first split the terminal with a small cutting pliers * Then spread the opening to slide the lead in * Dual flat Z v.3 type leads in this example; stick them in the crimp the split back together * Now solder and trim the excess below the tab to prevent shorting to the frame ----- 2) Making shims for your re-cone I suggest white paper -- you can adjust the number of sheets to fully fill the ID gap to make SURE the coil is aligned. I don't like card stock as it's not as flexible with the thickness and is often too loose or too tight. * For an SA-8 or anything with less than a 3" coil you'll need to trim the paper down a bit so it doesn't wrap back around itself * For a 3" coil standard 8.5" width is fine -- we usually trim it down a bit shorter to make working with it easier * As you can see we can adjust the thickness readily by adding or removing sheets ----- 3) Lazy Susan for easy re-coning We made ours from two woofer cut-outs and a bearing set from Lowes available near the cabinet rails and cabinet hardware. * We covered the top in leather to not scratch the motor * Back has no covering * Bearings -- these are durable... we build our biggest subs on them

Some of you have called and had a "new" guy answer in the last week -- Nick is now answering phones for part of the day here at Sundown. You can talk to him about most of your questions -- if he doesn't have the answer you can leave a message and Brandon or I can e-mail you back from the message but please at least leave a brief message for us. I am often not here @ the shop all the time now due to other projects so we are getting a bit more help around here!

My account cannot receive payments with no fee -- I will be charged a fee even if you click gift. Simply send it normally.

We ONLY have black shirts -- any other shirts can be purchased from Derrick Haddock : Derrick824 on the forums.

EDIT 8/30/11 : WE CANNOT WARRANTY DIY RE-CONE ASSEMBLY ISSUES. Read and understand this -- if you are not 110% sure about re-coning the driver ask us or send it in. We can only stand behind labor that we perform. Manufacturing defects in the kit itself are of course our responsibility but installation is 100% the customer responsibility. Thanks for the understanding.

UPDATED

We will be running a raffle for an Obsidian Audio 15D2 and a Sundown Audio SAX-1200D in order to benefit the National MS Society Bike Ride Event. For every $5 donated your name will be entered into the raffle one time. For instance, if you donate $50 you will get ten entries for the raffle. If/When you send a donation please note with your donation "Sundown Audio" so we will know who has donated in order to enter the raffle. To donate / participate in the raffle click the following link : National MS Society - Bike Event: Our friend Terri Latimer is participating in this ride to benefit Nick Lemons; another personal friend / business associate of mine. Many of you may recognize Nick from the forums as "Electrodynamic" -- the owner of Stereo Integrity and part owner / sub designer for Obsidian Audio. So here is a good chance to benefit MS research while also getting a chance to win an awesome car audio bass package. We will be doing the drawing for the winner of the raffle on September 19th after the ride (which is itself on September 17th). *added 08/29/2011* In addition to the above items, the raffle now additionally contains a Sundown Audio 125.2 and two Sundown Audio neo pro 8" woofers. That's right, the entire lot now contains the following: 1) Obsidian Audio 15" D2 subwoofer 1) Sundown Audio 1200D amplifier 1) Sundown Audio 125.2 amplifier 2) Sundown Audio 8" Neo Pro woofers

The X-8 is separate from the new frame I put on Facebook; the Facebook frame is for the SA-8 v.2

Further discounted to $579.99 !!!

*laughs*

Indeed... 16-18 awg should do it.

There may be more issues with it; you could quickly try to re-attach the wire if you like to make sure, though.

If you want a quote on 8 units hit me up by e-mail -- [email protected]

no, Sir. I have the entire back seat and hatch of a Scion TC to work with (there will be 8 of whichever I choose) With no depth restriction you can do the OA-12s -- they are a bit beefier.

No plans... OA is planning an 18" though.

The SD-2 is a MUCH shallower driver; do you need a shallower driver or not ?