RAM_Designs

Pre-drill. I've never split MDF when I did it, and I routinely screw 2" from the corner of a box.

Out of curiosity, what does this amp cost in Brazil?

Lulz, I tried explaining this to people before and they never listened...

So I can get 2 of those, put them in small sealed boxes with 600 watts and do 150's? Maybe 160's in the right isobaric application.

A larger port will also have a steeper roll-off below tuning, from what I've noticed. Which kinda goes with what you said, Shizzon.

Can you give an explanation as to why it does/doesn't?

He definitely does not have the greatest reputation at other places...

Looks beastly.

The box was big, on purpose, tuned to 28hz. The point I was making is that the amount of power you need is greatly dependent on the box. And to answer the OP's question, there's absolutely nothing wrong with using the Kicker 1500.1 on a pair of Skar subs. You could use a 5kw amp if you wanted, you just have to set your gain accordingly.

Must have been customer error.

It's much easier to pass the linear limits than thermal limits, so long as you're using clean power, that's what I'm after. Hell, I could make the 1st gen Mach 5 IXL go past xmax with just 250 watts in the box I was using. Granted, I knew I was just using a bridged 4 channel for the subs so I built the box accordingly.

It greatly depends on the size of the box anyways.

Nice for 6kw.

Port length does become quite long when tuning that low, which is why I just use slot ports. I generally tune around 28-30hz, so I end up with some pretty long ports most of the time.

Aeros also cost money and don't brace the box like a slot port can. They're also much hard to get a low tuning with because you have to get elbows ad more pvc to bend the port inside the box...this also costs you more money as well. IMO not worth it, but I have all the room in the world to do what I want so space isn't an issue at all.

Four SA-15's will still be beastly.

Of course it did. With a 240 amp alt the amp is easily going to burn past the alt voltage and go directly to batt voltage.

4ft^3 common chamber with a 30hz tuning. Those Eclipses do not have stiff suspensions so they're going to need a lower tuned box to get low.

Congrats on 32k posts. So what do you do besides car audio, and what all do you have your hands dipped into, audio wise?

I thought you guys had suggested port area specs as well, like how IA did/does? If not, I think that'd be something good to have; a solid figure(or suggested span) for how much port area is necessary to avoid port noise at full xmax(maybe even more).

I had the plain looking version of the newer models, the MK1(as opposed to the blingy-er MK2) for a short while and it was quite impressive. It uses the Differential Drive motor topology which is basically the opposite approach as the XBL^2 motor in order to get the same results, an extended flat BL curve which gives you lots of clean output.

The GTi series are very nice, which model do you have exactly? There are the newer style GTi's that have been around since around 2000 that are very deep and look identical minus some flashy accents on the more recent ones. Then you have the old GTi series of woofers from back in the 90's that look more like a normal woofer(motor wise) and have the W surround like a PA speaker. new: http://www.cartunesetc.com/gallery/clearance_items/images/JBL%20GTi%20W12%20subwoofer.jpg newer: http://i.seimg.net/images/37813/main/w10gtimkii.jpg old: http://www.wavemusic.com/community/showthread.php?t=9640

With mainstream products like MTX, Kicker, etc. it's almost guaranteed that you should not follow the recommended specs. 99% of the time they're going to be small boxes with a small port that's tuned too high. Why? Because those kinds of boxes don't take up a lot of room, so you can fit more of their product in a given install. The 9500's are actually really nice woofers if you're looking for a groundpounder kind of setup. They certainly have a lot of potential...

Inside the box, a bunch; it wouldn't be worth while. If you keep internal volume the same you're looking at 12-13" more port outside of the current box.

After .13 displacement for the sub, I came up with 2.42ft^3(this is assuming that the 17" port length provided by the company is internal length). This leaves you with roughly 39-40hz tuning. If you have the space, you can wrap the port around the outside of the box and have it fire the same direction as the sub. Just take off the carpet on that one side, and attach the port extension to that side in order to make the port flush with the sub. This will drop tuning to ~32hz. Then just re-carpet it or paint it black. This is assuming you have the space to fire the port like that, and don't mind a slightly ghetto box.