RAM_Designs

Is said moofer install in Car RamRod?

Let us know how wide you can go and how high the window line will be(unless you want to go over it. Then you can use whatever depth you need to give yourself some more leg room.

Looks good, I'd move that sub cutout to the right though. It looks like the box isn't very deep and it would be pretty close to the port opening.

Good deal, look forward to hearing from you.

You'd benefit from modding your doors a little to fit a good 6.5" mid in there. You'll get a good deal more midbass than a 5.25" woofer.

If your class only allows 2kw clamped, then you should be fine.

I'd sell one amp and just be happy with 2k to each sub.

Wowza, nice looking woofer right there.

Good deal. I'd try a box with the port facing up as well if you're in the mood to build another box and see what works best. What's the specs on that box you're using now?

Yeah, I'm trying to figure out how it's getting that much volume for the port. I'm getting around .75ft^3...it's kinda hard to follow something like this without a picture because you're not sure of how everything is laid out.

Since you'll be firing the subs and ports the same way, you can try firing them both directions and see what sounds best to you.

The wife and I are looking at moving back to our home town, close to both our parents, to start settling down and start a family here in a few years...talk about time to grow up!

I was going to point you towards madisound.com, who had these nice Aura ones for sale...sold out though. https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=9007

Looks to be alright. I'd round-over those port corners if you plan on pushing those subs pretty good, just to be safe. Don't forget about bracing either.

I'm glad you're happy with the results. Let me know if you need anything else.

Looks great. My grandparents used to live in Colorado Springs, and it's just great up there.

Looks good, nice choice of equipment too.

It'll more than likely be pretty boomy, I know my Polk sub that way similar to that was...to the point of annoying. If you want it for gaming, where you'll be hearing explosions and such, I'd look elsewhere, or just build your own.

I wouldn't say that it necessarily produces more heat, but the lack of cooling due to a clipped signal not allowing as much excursion presents an opportunity for heat to build up easier.

"We could not prove within the scope of our test that a different signals of normalized power would have any different effects on the driver, regardless of the amount of cone excursion." Very interesting. Goes against common sense when you'd figure that greater excursion for a given power level will give better cooling. Maybe it would be more vital with woofers that rely on cooling via motor cooling technology, VC former cooling, vents in the basket between the spider and motor, spacers between the basket and motor, etc. moreso than the cheap PE drivers you were using that probably had non of these features?

I think we can agree that there's a lot to be taken into consideration when figuring out what size port you need/want. Things like musical taste, listening habits, driver excursion, the noise floor of the vehicle itself, enclosure placement, etc. all play a role.

This is an incorrect assumption when you only use modeling software. The reason is, when you get closer to the infrasonic region, which for some of us is above 20Hz, the system starts leaving the audible realm and moving into a tactile one. The problem this poses is, most of us have very insesitive hearing down there. But what we can still hear well are all of the vent attributes other than the intended output. Basically, the ratio of port introduced distortions to intended output are much greater than at higher frequencies. This why, in practice, you really don't want to start rolling back on your vent area because you are dealing with lower frequencies... Makes sense, but even with a 28hz tuning there is still a lot more to be heard than felt, in my experience. And I don't know of a lot of people who tune lower than that(28hz box is my daily setup). I guess it'd also depend on where your enclosure is located in relation to your listening position, but you have a point, it's not the same for everyone.

Yay, can we hug now?

You must have missed the first sentence of my post. Air being displaced is what matters most. How much power or how big of a box it takes to get that displacement is irrelevant. Tuning frequency is the next important factor as a lower tuning means a lower port velocity, which means you can get away with less port area. Maybe you thought I meant the physical sub displacement inside the box, not the air the cone will be displacing? Saying that power applied and box volume is not relevant to the cone displacement is false. There's a big freaking difference between putting 500w on a speaker of putting 2000w on the same speaker when it comes to displacement. And there's a big difference in displacement when you switch a woofer from a 1.5cf box to a 2.5cf box. No, I'm not stupid, I understand what you are saying and it is incorrect. You're completely misunderstanding what I am saying. Obviously box size and power will affect how much a sub moves in a given application, that is obvious. What I'm saying is that 2" of excursion is 2" of excursion, regardless if it's in a 1.5ft^3 box requiring 1kw or a 2.5ft^3 box requiring 500 watts. Required port volume is 99% dependent on sub displacement in the given box and what frequency you're tuning to.

Doesn't lead up to this: "Saying "clipping doesn't kill speakers" is a half-truth at best. Technically no, clipping itself does not hurt the speaker. But in clipping your amp, you can easily create a situation that WILL kill the speaker. Was the squared waveform the DIRECT cause of the failure? No. In the end, the answer is, always has been, and can only be... heat kills speakers. BUT, clipping increases heat generation, sometimes by a drastic amount." He never said clipping killed anything and it won't, unless because of the clipping you are putting too much average power into the driver. I stated the same, heat build-up due to clipping. I also stated that overheating and physically tearing the woofer apart are the only ways to blow it(short of manufacturer defect)...isn't this pretty common knowledge?