sandt38

Yes, low impedance units too. I run an older Motec engine controller. I am not sure if you caught it, but my runs are on 24 pounds of boost and I am running 8.5:1 not 8:1 compression ratio. I need fuel . No, I don't do the Buick forums. I used to work at Lou's Auto (if you go to those forums you know the place), so I worked on the nasty GNs for a living for about 2.5 years. I don't really get much out of those type forums. Besides, I work on cars at least 5 days a week for 9 hours a day... when I get home, the last thing I want to do is argue with a shadetree about how to properly fix or tune his car. Are you going back to stock on your car, or doing performance mods? Yes, it did have the stereo in it, but at the time it just had the Brahma in about .8 sealed, so the box weighed less then 1/2 what it does now. With all that said, a Brahma MKI and MKII weighed in at about 45 pounds all by itself.

Maybe for my next time around I will use dual Anarchys, I hope to buy them soon. Should I be looking more at a mid range driver and just let the sub do the bottom? TBH I think tht you are suffering using the extended range driver and a 10 inch midbass. I feel a 3 way set is definitely best, given a proper install, but expecting that little driver to fill the void above the 10 inch midbass is asking a little too much. If I were dead set on a 10 inch midbass, I might look into either a dedicated 6.5 or 5.25 midrange and a tweeter. But with this type of install you have to have a more on axis install because the midrange can start beaming being so large. Granted you can find certain drivers with phase plugs or odd shaped cones to aid in off axis dispersion, but still, there are limits. You could skinny down to a 4 inch midrange and a tweet to take away some of the beaming that may occur with a 6.5 or 5.25 midrange as well. Just a couple thoughts for you to ponder. I know that leg space is limited though, so you really need to figure out what will work best based around the space you have.

Too bad you have a 10 inch hole. I might suggest the Anarchys. They are a steal right now.

Did I miss something? Is something amiss at the Clinton household? http://www.myfoxny.com/dpp/news/national/earthquake-dc-maryland-virginia-0716101279280754559 I am sure they are fine, just want to make sure. Oh I see! 3.6 is something you can barely feel. I lived in Southern California, so trust me I know what I am talking about. I am sure they are just fine.

Did I miss something? Is something amiss at the Clinton household?

I agree. Selling out is making trash gear. The gear is still high quality, but suddenly it is gaining exposure. I say props to Jacob for making a big move. This will make his product much move visible and accessible. It is simply good business. Congrats Jacob! Nice to see a good dude with good products making it. I hope that good things come from this for you.

I love me some big blocks. My favorite car I ever had was a 1970 Olds 442 W-30 ragtop. It had that nasty 455 olds motor in it. It had like 325HP but almost 600LbFt of torque from the factory. When I got done with that car I could only run it on race fuel. I had 12.5:1 compression, a stump puller of a cam, an 1150CFM Holley Dominator on it, and glass packs about 2 feet past the headers which is where the exhaust ended, and 4.11 gears with a 3 speed transmission. I put suicide swivel bucket seats in it. I could pull the front wheels off the ground at 1/2 throttle. Great 1/8 mile car but the thing ran out of gear at about 85MPH. You would ride down the highway doing 65MPH turning 4000RPM. It was so frikken beastly there just aren't words. It was just nasty, nasty loud. You couldn't get a system in that thing and hear it no matter what you did. Sadly I got drunk and wrapped it around a tree.

Not a GNX, but still sick. Close enough for me What are the differences? Guess I need a refresher. 1 second in a quarter mile... The GNX can be identified by the black 16 inch aluminum wheels where the GN had stamped 15 inch chromed wheels. Mine has the TType wheels on it, as the GN wheels were very heavy and very ugly. I have a shot of the car when i first got it on the road with those GN wheels, I'll pull it up and post it. They also had the Buick 3 port holes in the front fender. There were only 547 GNXs made in 1987. The cars gained speed with a special chip, a ceramic impeller turbocharger, a larger intercooler, and a longitudinal torque bar (a support which attaches the transmission directly to the rear end), and a panhard rod. The suspension is markedly better. I would love to own one. The cheapest I found one that was unmolested was a car with about 90,000 miles on it, and the guy was asking $45,000. I am just too damn cheap to spend that on a car that retailed for under $35,000

While this is true, it also allows for EMI/RFI introduction. Such noise can sound like shit. That is why you see such high pre-out voltages, they actually lower the noise floor. Back in the day with 1/2 volt preouts we had tons of noise issues. That is why old timers swear you have to run the RCAs up the opposite side of the car as your power and remotes. I still cringe when I bundle my RCAs and power wires nowadays... but I know if I do that and have noise introduction I need to fix my ground... Prevents you from melting your terminals

Footing it. I know people would disagree but I just don't think a brake belongs on a street car. I can build 7 pounds at the line and just start to blow the tires away. A break seems counterproductive. If I ran with slicks all the time, I could justify it. But i haven't even been to the track in 7 years You'll have to get me on the same page... a 3.90 is a lower gear then a 3.73. My car is an auto, as all GNs and TTypes were. With an auto we don't need to spool the turbo while moving, we can build boost on the line. When I put the 3.90s in it my acceleration was significantly harder, and I had better 60 ft times by a good margin. But by the time I got 7/8s of the way down the track I was running out of motor. My times actually dropped almost 3/8 second. With the 3.73s I was able to stay in my powerband to the end of the track. If I were to run 1/8 miles I would have likely gone to 4.10s, but I ran 1/4s. Also, as far as streetability, the 3.73s are much more gentlemanly gears on the road... and this car gets driven. It has ~240,000 on it now.

Looks like the amp is fooked! Looks like a short on the output circuit.

I get that all the time. My car is memorable... but alas, I am not

I am a huge fan of sealed, myself, but the DCon wants to be ported in every way. The high BL and very low Qts scream for ported. While i haven't computed the EBP I am positive even if you use the classic formula for selecting the alignment for the driver, it will beg for ported

Thanks guys, I forgot to put the info about the rear end in there and just added it. Also, I forgot to mention, I did everything myself. I worked for a shop where we specialized in GNs, and I bought this for a song. I paid $1500 for it, but it was trashed. My wife shit when she first saw the car. It had gold spoked Daytons on it, it was all oxidized, the motor was gone (I mean absolutely thrashed) and the transmission case was broken.

1 guy, and 5 hot chicks. About the only way I can see 6 people getting into one Frankly if it isn't 5 hot chicks, i don't want 6 in my car... Well, OK I can fit 5 very comfortably.

Well, sine Tirefryr asked, I guess I would post my toy. It is a 1986 Buick Grand National. It has a 3.8L V6, 30 over and stroked. Forged TRW 8.5:1 pistons and a forged Crower crank. Comp cams custom cut to optimize exhaust gas speed to increase spool up and reduce lag. The heads are cast, ported and polished with stainless valves, Chevy 350 lifters and comp cams 1.6:1 roller rockers. The intake manifold is match ported and polished to the heads, and fed through a Turbo-TA stretched intercooler with a Duttwieler neck conversion. I use a 3 inch cold air pipe and a 9 inch K&N. I use stock style headers (I found they have better bottom end then the high flow headers) a TA51 turbo, 2.5" downpipe, catalytic converter delete and Hooker Cat back system. I use a secondary in-line Bosch fuel pump and 120# injectors for fuel. An Art Carr built transmission with a 3500 stall converter. Suspension is pretty much stock, with poly bushings, boxed rear trailing arms, TRW Variable rate rear springs and new TRW front springs. I think that was all that matters under the hood. I put it on the Mustang and dialed in 495HP and 525Lb Ft of torque on 24#s of boost. My best 1/4 is 11.84@119. My 0-60MPH times are 4.2seconds. I inititally swapped out the 3.42 gears out for 3.73s. I figured when i opened up the exhaust my top end would improve and i could put 3.90s in it. So I put 3.90 gears in it but I found I lost too much top end down the quarter, dropping my quarter times and trap speeds. So I went back to 3.73s to get my 1/4 times and trap speeds back up but my 0-60 times fell a bit. In the trunk is a Ported Adire Brahma (1.9ft tuned to 24Hz), powered by a Cadence Z7000HC (1500X1 class AB). The front stage is a pair of Adire Koda 6.1s powered by a Cadence Q3000. The HU is a Pioneer Premier DEH-P740MP. I have an AC Delco Platinum AGM battery out back and a true isolator out front. Pics? OK

Will do. I was going to join several years back but the majority of those guys were fuckin douchebags. I don't need to sit around and read a bunch of horseshit by a bunch of shadetree mechanics. I read one thread about some dude who popped his headgasket and changed it out in a parkinglot at the hotel he was staying at. He thought it was funny that he had popped his HG several times and was talkin crap about Fel-Pro gaskets. The whole lot of them started in on Fel-Pro... I'm thinking, geez, maybe it is more an issue with you suck at setting up your car and that is why it keeps blowing. I worked for one of the premier GN builders in the US, and built 9 and 10 second V6 door slammers. Lou Czarnota at Lou's Auto. He was an NHRA SS/DX world record holder, and I got to work on and drive that nasty bitch... Anyways, I was around enough people with attitudes like that when I worked for him (I used to work on Art Carr's personal TType, and I got to meet guys like Kenny Duttwieler), I just don't need that in my personal life too. Lou was the worlds worst human being and an awful mechanic. Art was so high on himself you wanted to slap him. Kenny Duttwieler was actually a cool dude, and all those assholes in the GN crowd bagged on him. It kinda pissed me off. He knew i worked for Lou, but he took me around his shop, showed me his gear and some projects he was workin on... Just a really cool dude. Those guys were just envious of what he had and what he had accomplished. I have been around a lot of performance "gurus" and every one of them outside of Duttwieler was a damn pole smoker. Besides, I work on cars for a living. Playing with them at home just isn't that much fun anymore.

GN BABY!!!

I just don't like the ride of a European car. They are so stiff and uncomfortable. Their seats are hard as a rock too. I know a lot of people love them, but I prefer the smooth ride of an American Sedan... or even an Asian. Plus, the money it costs to fix those things... good God. I am a mechanic, and even getting the parts at cost is high as hell, not to mention they are awful to work on and their wiring diagrams are indecipherable. I got all that in my little V6... along with 30MPG on the road.

I took this at the Ripley's Aquarium in Myrtle Beach. The Jellyfish were awesome:

Cosumel Mexico... This was our Catamaran trip. The water is the most amazing blue you have ever seen in your life: Holy shit! Is that my wife with Johnny Depp?!?!?!

Key West... I was more then just a tad fucked up from visiting Jimmy Buffet's joint. Our Margarita bill came to just over $300

A couple Sunrise pics from Miami 2 years ago.

This dude was in my front yard. It was about 1.5-2 inches long. It is a red velvet ant. It is supposedly some kind of flightless wasp, and it has a nasty, nasty sting.

Thanks guys. I just figured I would add a little something different.