ford302redneck

I'd assume the new 40.1s are a whole new design.

The cooling should be better -- it is well engineered, IMO. It may not function well with low levels of excursion, though. The engineer I spoke with indicated they test with a mix of 30 and 60 hz together so this would generate alot more movement. That's understandable. Hard for forced air cooling to work if no real movement.

Hank, do you have the 7.3 motor? I'm wondering what are you going to be doing for alternators.

Uh oh. Do tell Shawn... As I was rereading this thread, I was wondering where you been hiding at. Now I see you posted.

I haven't seen much about the new ones. I'm really liking them but I'm wanting to see what's inside. So if that's possible could somebody post a few pictures. Also, what's the MSRP on them?

I'd rather have 1 1500 than 2 1000. Cheaper and in most cases the 1500d was louder.

No, everybody online doesn't seperate the two, unless they are running 12 volts and say 16 volts. Its fine to add a extra alternator if that's what you want to do. Or you could replace the one you have now with a upgraded one.

I have a 12 Q in 2.3 cuft NET with 2 4inch Aeros and it does extremely well.

They are not glossy. DC sells them now also. I seen Chode(over on SMD) 8inch DD Cf's on his 18 DC neos and they are just the sexiest thing I've seen.

A Dish isn't a Ferrari, lol. Its actually a lot weaker than the boob. There's nothing wrong with the boob, as I love it. but Fi's line up from SSD to BTL all look the same as far as cone, surround, and dustcap. It would be nice to change it up a little.

And I thought there was suppose to be some bigger buckles. Like a CNCed aluminum Logo?

The remote controls the gain, but doesn't go higher than it is set on the amp. Wide open on the remote is to where you have it set on the amp.

Nick, I know we been through this 10 times probably, about the CF caps. And maybe also the Dustcovers, and I understand subs without vents in the pole, just can't handle the pressure of the air. And I understand wanting to keep stock low, simply less things that could run out and have people waiting on, when its not a real need. I just like CF caps. They are just sexy to me. I even like the Havocs dustcover too. It just is clean, smooth, and sexy. And Scott, your the man. I'm just ready to see what yall release next. And if you remember, the Q I won is still playing to this day. I'm still in love with it as I was the first time I heard it. I'm ready for the N1 to come out so I can replace it.

I knew yall had them, or was going to make them. Just never seen them on the site. I need to place a misc order. Time for a few new shirts and a belt. I also want a Ascendant Audio shirt, how would I go about getting one?

You can look into the SSA Icon, it is similar to the SSD and has the dustcover you like. I also wish Fi would make more options, I've asked Nick on a few occasions, and its not happening. But Fi is all about options, looks should also be a option other than logo color. I want CF boobs. I know it doesn't serve much of a purpose but I like them.

Right, I didn't go into 100% detail on the whole topic. Figured it wasn't needed until somebody had something smart to say. But you explained the rest.

I've never understood, when people say when your seeing voltage drop add a battery. Let's start by saying, voltage drop is when your alternator is at say 14.5volts and drops to say 12.5 volts, that's because all the current it is producing is used. Now adding a battery isn't going to help your alternator produce anymore current, so therefore still going to drop to 12.5 volts. Only way to stop voltage drop is produce more current, and the alternator will still have current to charge. A battery stores energy, it doesn't produce it. Why doesn't people understand this. To the OP, install the amp, then decided if you need anything else. As long as your not draining your batteries with everything your running. Your fine.

8 ohm drivers are generally more efficient vs a 4 ohm driver with the same power. The driver isn't more efficient. Higher resistance or impedance in this case causes the amp to produce less power, and less strain vs a lower ohm load (say 1ohm for example), thus having a higher efficiency. But that doesn't mean it's more efficient on the same amount of power, because a 8ohm driver and 4ohm driver on the same amp will never see equal power (unless gains are changed...) well i ment the same power as lets say a 4 ohm driver on 100 watts vs a 8 ohm driver given 100 watts, the 8 ohm driver is more efficient. Still incorrect man. Depending on the drivers resistance, will change the electrical impedance and cause the amplifier to make more or less power. A direct swap out from a 4ohm driver to a 8ohm driver will cause the amp to see a higher impedance and thus create less power (same thing as wiring your subs from 1ohm to 4ohm. Amplifier produces less power but is more efficient, but just because it's more efficient doesn't mean it's going to be louder, or that the actual driver is more efficient... Hope that makes sense What if the amp has a regulated power supply and makes the same power at 2-8ohms. Now what? What point is trying to be proven here?

Will production have a different gasket?

Damn. I'd be ashamed to put that on youtube.

Do I need to email you for interest in 1500d?

Interesting...

I'm not buying coax's, there just what I have at the moment. I'm really planning a active setup before to long. I got a new project in the works. All my funding is going to that. So this is on hold.

Havocs are geared more towards SQ while the Mayhem is a daily SPL sub. So the Havoc's should sound better, but the Mayhem doesn't sound bad itself. Both have good low end.

I'm ready to see mids/tweets. If I ever do a Home Audio install, I found my company.