ford302redneck

This makes me proud to say I live in SC. /Sarcasism. :Shakeshead:

That amp is like 1100 rms on the sub channel and the birth sheets usually say around 1200-1250. Ive got one in my trunk. Think those subs with that amp can do 150? If so Im keeping my amp If your talking about the Memphis, those amps are quiet nice. But I doubt it will do a 150, not saying its not possible, but sure ain't as easy as buying a probox and 2 12s. I actually see it being difficult to do a 150 with 1200RMS for the most part.

I also talked to the guy who was letting Troy use his car to mock up the bracket for the 4.3. And According to him, Troy just quit half way through it and never even finished a prototype bracket.

First of all, no reason to be all mad a few people said Troy was a good guy. Time goes on and people change, that's not the peoples fault who tried to explain the side of Troy they knew. People just shared there experiences, either good or bad. I mean you act like people came on here swearing Troy would never do anything like this, and isn't a scammer. Most was just surprised because Troy didn't seem like the type to do this. But that doesn't mean they are taking up for him. But still, if you have no real dealings in this situation, maybe you need stay out of it. Cause it seems you have no idea what's going on and thinks people is still on Troy's side.

Close to the same as that wire will work.s

What about Hot wheel cars? Cause that's what it reminds me of.

Why would you like a reply to your email when you already have your answer here?

Nice concept. In reality, this would actually be better than competing on a local level. And I would think this would be more fun, cause most people love giving out/receiving demos more than competing. a

If you have your RCA's are hooked to your sub output on your headunit which doesn't put out the whole bandwidth, and trying to amplify a frequency that isn't there is impossible. Basically, you can't run your sub output to your mid/high amp because that output doesn't produce those frequencies. Also, some amps have a switch to select the input voltage, and if you have it on the wrong one, the amp won't play. Example, one might be .2volts-2volts and other option is 2.1v-8v, and say if u have 3volt preouts, you need to have it set on 2.1v-8v. *Example only. Try switching to a different set on preouts on the back of the headunit. And or make sure the amp doesn't have the selectable input voltage, and set at the right voltage to match.

ya. i didnt know that lol. im used to kicker's subs whichare shinny copper coils. Just because they are copper color doesn't mean it is copper. Most voicecoils look like copper but in fact isn't. Not saying none are color, but this is a misconception a lot, just because its the same color.

ya. i didnt know that before. so when i seem them i thought something was seriously wrong Color of the coil isn't exactly a direct indication of it being abused or overpowered. I've seen coils come from the manufacture almost black to begin with. I assume different glues are different colors.

Really their not really expensive compared to other subs in its class.(If any can be classified as being close to it) Think of the USA parts and the time they put into making them, the price is very reasonable. If I remember correctly, the SMD spends 4-5 times longer on a CNC than say a BL or Q. Then you look at other companies, that imports 95% of their sub, and spend no time on a CNC and yet AA is still cheaper priced.

Also, sounds like yall need a huge bar feeder CNC, that'll cut down on time and less times touching the actually part. I'd hate to imagine the price on one that can handle upto 4" bar stock. And Nick, I'm finalllllly glad you decided to show a little behind the scenes.

I'm not trying to knock DC but since they was brought up in this thread, how many people has inspected inside there vented poles? I've hand my hands on probably over 30 different DC subs, from Level 2s-Level 4s, and ALL of them had horrible machine groves in them. Sure this is inside a hole most will never see, but if they let that slide, makes you wonder what else do they. Also, some was worst than others, but still they all have less than par groves.

I didn't say it was impossible. I know people who have took a probox for a 8" and done 145s. But it took plenty of testing to get it there though. But for the most part, a probox and a noob wont equal 150dB.

I know this thread is old, and hate digging up old dirt but what is extremely efficient? 90%? 80%? Even at 12volts, 10k is 925a at 90% and 1041a at 80%. I'm not saying anything about the dual inputs being a problem, but going on saying these amps are way more efficient and they can get by with less isn't truthful. Truth is, less inputs is cheaper to make. And not exactly just because of less parts, but more on having to design a larger space to handle the inputs. And for the most part, doesn't have any real big gain, over just two. Simply because most people will have short runs of wire to a bank of batteries to keep these powerful beasts feed anyways. Point is, people judge a book by its cover, and are told to do so in car audio amplifiers. Take amp fusing and MAX ratings, first lesson most noob learns is, take fuse rating multiple by 12 and that's a good "round about" max RMS the amp can put out. So now, seeing a amp rated for 7k and only one set of 1/0 inputs, it goes against what they have always been told. But if you go back in the day, A LOT of amps had 8 gauge inputs yet put out 3-4 times the power 8 gauge inputs could handle. Same thing applies to these. I have noticed if a company who uses Korea or China made amps decided to come out with a 7kw amp but only used 1 set of inputs people wouldn't even consider buying it. And if it was a great deal smaller than the "normal" of that class, which those are two big physical characteristics people go on to determine how much power it really does, and they automatically assume there's no way they can do the rated power. Anybody who has worked in a retail shop can tell you, customers think the bigger the size, the more power it is. And the industry markets around that, and only until recently actually really started taking advantage of using smaller parts to make the smaller amps of the same power. Anyways, enough rant, I just seen this and decided to add my opinions to anybody that might come across this thread. Which I'm sure this question is asked a lot, and not giving the whole truth is almost the same as lying to me.

Probably referrering to a Pro Box that has a turbo bass box(I think that's what it is called). So at least he has one of the better built prefab boxes, but still 150dB out of a prefab? Isn't common unless you spend a good bit of time testing or just plain lucky.

Will do Tomorrow. I changed it back to series and now its playing normal. At one point I thought I lost a coil because I messured the impedance at the amp and got 1.4. Then took the sub out and both read 1.4, so I tried at the amp again and got .8. So I assume I check it to quickly or something. I'll be sure to try it again tomorrow and video it this time.

Sure, clipping directly doesn't cause damage to tinsel leads, but that doesn't mean it has no effect. Regardless, its heat that is caused by to much power that usually leads to failure. Either if its square or sine, in the end, heat is the enemy. And I hope you wasn't thinking I suggested clipping and burning of the tinsel leads could be the problem. I only tried to clear up the confusion with the word "leads".

A Mmats amp, or the one you have? But still that seems irrelevant to your situation. As a amp could be going into protect for a numerous reasons, and none because of a certain sub. Sure, to low of impedance can cause a amp to go into protect, but that's got to do with what the amp can handle. Speakers are stupid, they only do what the amp tells it. You do have different situations where a certain sub or amp combo isn't recommend, but if the power rating of the amp,power handling of the sub, and impedance of sub will work with the amp, their shouldn't be a problem. List the details of the amp would really help others help you. Most isn't going to know the specs off the top of their head, and most don't have the time to look it up.

Holy old thread Batman.

so like on the amp end of the leads or the sub end of the leads?? The "tinsel" leads. The leads from the speakers terminal and voicecoil.

If they sound just as good either way why are you then using both pairs? I actually thought the same thing when I read that.

Class D 4 Channel. nice. I want one.

I know who I'm coming to if I need a website done.