tejcurrent

Great job on the doors, I might steal some of your ideas I just rebuilt my garage, I can't imagine not having it now. Anyway, great work - more pics

Thanks a lot. It has enough effort in it lol. I have some all thread that was going to go in but honestly there's next to no flex so I wont go through the effort till he gets the budget for resin. This box is ready to go in though, at least as soon as I clean it out again and drill a hole for the sub wires.

Pics: Started on the baffle Countersunk about 1/2 inch Glued and nailed the baffle in place. Double baffle. Wood filler in the holes Test fitting round over on the whole box 4 cans of black primer and 2 of valspar stone applied

Thanks! It really depends on the quality of the cuts/wood. I prefer glue/finish nails for several reasons: Cosmetics Speed of assembly Cost of screws To put finish nails every 6 inches costs a lot less than screws, while also allowing me to skip the pre-drilling, drilling, countersinking process for each screw. I can pop a few nails in a panel in seconds which also speeds things up. Then if you're painting the box the finish nails need less wood-filler to be smooth and paintable. If I'm building a box that will have thousands of watts and tons of subs, or the cuts aren't that great I'll use a few screws if fiberglass isn't in the budget. Screws wont work out like nails may, and they will clamp the joint a bit better till the glue dries. If you spend the time to make near perfect cuts and use plenty of glue you wont need screws for most boxes though imo.

] The 45s are cut and put in, now we just have to cut and install the baffle in the morning, then get it painted and let it dry for install! Hopefully this will be up and playing in a few days.

Yes sir, near Myrtle Beach, and you?

It would have arrived yesterday but I didn't hear the truck till it was pulling off. UPS dropped this off today It'll be powering these: 4 220a Iraggi alts I'm working on the bracket for them, I hope to have it machined Monday if I work out a few bugs:

Most likely a box issue, but there are so many variables. This may sounds oversimplified but I would try turning down the gain.

x2. I had some wood cut recently and after 2 or 3 cuts I realized they were 1/8-1/4" off. Turns out they couldn't cut a straight cut on a panel saw! They really cut 1/4" off after just 4 feet. I had my table saw stolen but used someone elses for a bit to make my own cuts. That's a nice looking sub, and good work. Waiting for more pics. Pretty good looking free-hand cuts btw- though I'd tip the cart before letting someone ride in it.

This is in my cousins '96 Buick Regal. Thanks to Vertex Audio for the equipment 2 15" IA LI (should arrive any day now) 1 run Shok industries 1/0 1 American Pro VS-1598 Here are some more pics and specs on the amp since it's not a popular amp/brand VS-1598 500rms x 2 @ 2ohms The box is 7ft net tuned to 36hz with 96sq of port. First cut, 1 side of the port Since my table saw was stolen we were using this one- damn it's so nice to use Marking the port 3/4 round over on the port. Trying out the new "jawhorse" thing. It works pretty nice! Also with the small router- really good for laminate and easier to control with my home made base than the large router More of the box together And the port is on Using woodfiller on some nail holes, the box just uses finish nails & glue so it's really quick. And a light sanding after drying Depending on how things go we'll get the baffle done in the next day or so, then we need to chop the trunk some, cut 45s and resin things.

If there are no problems with an amp it does make financial sense to run one large one instead of multiples. I'm running an AB 1000.1 but it is different since it is basically 2 smaller amps in 1 case. Also 4 sets of power/ground inputs instead of 2 or 3. I see both sides of the argument, but as long as there are no issues this amp meant less wiring and a lower price tag for the power I wanted. I agree that that sort of power really isn't necessary for daily use, and the charging upgrades required to keep things at 14 volts makes the amp itself look cheap. But like someone said, even if they only sell a few of these amps it could be a good marketing ploy.

I couldn't get through today. I'll send Nathan a PM as well though- just wanted to update.

I try lol. I was going to buy one around Christmas but it wasn't out yet, though I think it's ready now. I'll just give an update tomorrow.

OK. I'll call tomorrow and see if one is available for my application. If so I'll post info as soon as it arrives

Thanks! Just a few pics of the bracket and alts, in case anyone is interested. I picked up the bolts to finish test fitting today, I just didn't have time. I'm hoping to get the test fitting done tomorrow so I can get it made and get some real power to these subs.

Thanks. After some play time I can say these sound great, and get really loud on very little power. I've had numerous people tell me how loud this setup is, even compared to past setups with more power and cone area. I listen to a lot of rock/metal and I like the way these subs sound on everything. There was a dropjaw show a few miles from my house, but when I got there the guy running the thing didn't know what I meant when I asked if they were using a termlab. I guess the noise ordinance in Myrtle Beach is so bad they didn't even have an audio competition. Hopefully I'll have my own termlab soon, otherwise I'll just go to a show to get metered once it's running full steam. My 4 220a alts came in, so as soon as I get my quad alt bracket finalized and machined out I'll be hooking those up and doubling the power.

I would call Bob at American Bass and ask for a quote directly (or your nearest dealer). I had a great buying experience, and I've been happy with the product. Find out which is cheaper, which has the best warranty, and go from there.

I got my 2 21" Wardens in last week, and they look amazing. I ordered through Vertex Audio, they were great to deal with and kept in touch well. I had the pleasure of talking to Nick and he was helpful, and courteous. It's really nice to hear a real person answer the phone. Anyway, I'm going to be running the subs on an American Bass 1000.1 at 1 ohm, so give or take more than 10kw if I can keep imp. rise down. I have more alternators on the way, so for the time being I'm running the amp at 4 ohms, roughly 5kw. I just got things hooked up today and even on RMS these subs are performing great. They're every bit as loud as the 2 BTL 18s I had at 2 ohms a month or two ago. Not quite as loud as 4 btl 18s I had a little over a year ago, but with way less power and cone area they're very close (at least to the ear). They aren't at all broken in, but several people have commented on how good they sound compared to some previous setups. I had a small fuse for my line driver give me a problem so I fixed it at Best Buy. The manager actually came out of the store (really cool guy) and sat in it. He told me he had done car audio for 16 years and that was the loudest thing he heard in his life. It obviously isn't breaking any records at the moment, but with the little bit of power they're getting these subs are doing much better than I anticipated (that's saying something). The box is 15^3 net with 220sq inches of port, tuned to 36hz. Here are a few vids. My camera hardly shows the flex at all, things have to move like crazy to show anything, but oh well.: Some flex Small bag trick, nothing is tuned yet And driving down the highway trying to get some of that dash flex in there I did not start a build log on this forum, but here is a link to one if anyone is interested: Build log link

Looks nasty! There isn't a lot of info out about the wardens, how do you like them vs your dps? Amazing how little excursion there appears to be vs how loud it appears - waiting for more vids.

I've been told that it's on the back burner several times. In a thread about the Ascendant Audio/SMD sub they said that it may be out in a 22 if there is enough demand after the 1st quarter of 2010. I'll let someone who knows the specifics answer, but I would imagine the larger cone would really benefit from the motor strength of the BL or BTL more than a q or ssd. I think the BTL should be the first project

If I was to buy an 18 SM|) would it be possible to recone to the 22 if or when it was released? I noticed it was a very different basket from the BTL.

I would email nick with pictures of the problem, along with when you bought the sub and info on your setup. You may be able to mail it in and get it repaired under warranty, but chances are since you say a coil went bad there was some user error that caused the problems.

Bingo. One is an online company, the other primarily sold in stores. Only the guys behind the scenes can explain if there are any real minute differences, but overall they are extremely similar drivers.

If you're running that amp at 1/2 ohm with both subs, just run 1 sub at 1 ohm with 4.5ft or so, and 60-70 sq of port. You may or may not be louder with 4 8s, but you already have the subs to build an enclosure, so do that and see if you're pleased with the output/sound or not. Most likely you'll feel like you're lacking on bass with that much less cone area. But if you run the 8s sealed you'll be able to run a much smaller box.

You should be good with a 150, you'll probably never pull 180a anyway. Most people would tell you to get a 200. Yes, the wire can handle quite a bit more than 200 amps, but with the price of wire vs amps, I'd rather replace a fuse in my wire than risk equipment damage.